Strangely enough it was an idea I got from something Alex Barrows said in another thread, where he was talking about why he didn't like strength training - cos 20 hangs, 2 min rest, it's too short a session. For me, right now, that sounds perfect.
I still think strength training is lame and way less fun than enduro
As Nai mentioned, it may depend a little bit on what you're traing towards, and what's your weakness. I think starting off with something like the RCTM intermediate program(see the ancap on a FB Thread) for 2 workouts a week for 4-6 weeks is a good bet. Get a timer like the seconds app that can be programmed for the full workout, and the just turn the brain off and follow directions. After you do a cycle of repeaters, you should be good to progress to max hangs. I think starting off with repeaters helps you learn and dial in better form as you're doing so many more hangs per workout. Really focus on the form though.
Edit - thinking about it, is a pinch just sticking your thumb in one of the lower pockets/holds? If so - is there a certain type of hold you should use for this exercise? Gentle sloper/crimp etc?
I have been doing some pinches in the same manner by using a piece of wood with a weight hanging off it and about 20kg is pretty hard.
Confirmed: cannot hang the 45s for even a second. Can hang 35s for 15 seconds though.
If you're hangs are all four fingers on the small hold it's definitely worth hanging with three in more of a drag than the chisel created by getting the pinky involved.
Quote from: nai on January 04, 2016, 10:20:33 pm If you're hangs are all four fingers on the small hold it's definitely worth hanging with three in more of a drag than the chisel created by getting the pinky involved.I ended up getting a Lopez transgression fingerboard because I didn't fancy messing around with multiple combos of 2 and 3 finger hangs. I might if I had a certain particularly weak finger, but otherwise i prefer regimes based around 4 finger hangs with the option of a slightly smaller hold, or a larger hold and more weight. Worth considering, particularly if you can get a Lopez board brought over from Spain or Germany. That said, I have a taste for simplicity / monotony / quantisation. A fingerboard of 18, 14, 12,10, 9, 8, 7, 6 mm straight edges might not appeal to lovers of variety!