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[peak][blackwell dale] (Read 12927 times)

haydn jones

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[peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 12:36:07 pm
Piggy Black not sure on grade harder than Black, Sack & Crack (AKA BSC) so added a grade which makes it 7C
starting from the right hand end jugs. Tricky moves using undercuts and heel hooking on the jugs bring you left into BSC, finish up this.

Blackout again grade who knows, if you can reach the crimp from the foot ledge (you'd need to be more than 6 foot!) it would probably be as low as 7A+. I had to jump. felt hard so giving it 7C.
Start on the large jugs on the right. moving past a lovely pinch and a slot you arrive at a slopey edge for your left hand, from this jump to the sticking out crimp and hold the swing! Finish promptly on the large jugs immediately above.

Three Nine

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#1 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 01:06:37 pm
topo pic/vid please!

haydn jones

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#2 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 01:48:21 pm
Ok. Will go back probably satarday if i can find anyone to climb with and document it all on camera. If not maybe mon/tue. Reallly want people to get on blackout. Blowing my own trumpet but i genuinely  think its one of the best problems in the peak

Three Nine

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#3 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 02:01:34 pm
i look forward to it  :popcorn:

abarro81

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#4 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 02:55:20 pm
Are these things further down the valley from ovine and that next buttress down from it?

Three Nine

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#5 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 19, 2015, 03:32:24 pm
Apparently so (past black and deckout buttress). But i walked past that and all the way to where the crag meets the stream and didnt see anything that looked worth climbing (and im not fussy)? Perhaps its further?

haydn jones

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#6 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 01:12:21 am

ned showing his gurn face on an excellent 6C+ Jon will hopefully remind me of the name as i've forgotten

haydn jones

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#7 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 01:16:38 am

1.Black Magic 7B
2.Black, Sack & Crack 7B+
3. Piggy Black 7C
4. Blackout 7A+

did black magic today is really good, dom bridgewood found new beta on blackout with a high right heel hook so you no longer have to dyno hence now 7A+ instead of 7C

would highly recommend the jump way for anyone interested though is good move

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#8 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 06:35:17 am
I hope the problems are better than the topo!

ferret

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#9 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 07:33:09 am
i genuinely  think its one of the best problems in the peak

Looking at that topo photo from the safety of my arm chair I can only conclude that you haven't climbed many/any problems in the peak or you were completely out of your mind when writing that.

Three Nine

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#10 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 08:36:42 am
Thanks for the topo Haydn, much appreciated

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 09:10:08 am
The 6C+ that Ned is on in the pic is called Bog Standard, the quality is anything but.

Worth a mention that Dave's Black & Deckout 7a+ got a clean and four repeats yesterday. Really excellent highballing. The debris around the base of the tree at the top could do with a bit of a clear out though. It's not a big job but a short bit of rope would be useful.

tomtom

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#12 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 09:11:09 am
Thanks for the topo Haydn, much appreciated

+1. Effort.

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#13 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 09:20:14 am
Blackout is a really good problem. Me and Scouse tried it last night (didn't do it); 7a+ seems harsh. Maybe 7b? No easier than say Sheep Shifter.

dave

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#14 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 09:23:00 am
Worth a mention that Dave's Black & Deckout 7a+ got a clean and four repeats yesterday. Really excellent highballing. The debris around the base of the tree at the top could do with a bit of a clear out though. It's not a big job but a short bit of rope would be useful.

Glad its getting some traffic. As the saying goes; I genuinely think its one of the best problems in the peak.

haydn jones

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#15 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 01:09:39 pm
Limestone is never much to look at. But the holds feel perfectly sculpted

Three Nine

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#16 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 01:25:27 pm
I look forward to the beta vid  ;)

haydn jones

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#17 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 02:45:14 pm
damn just noticed the name black magic is taken by another problem.... hmmm anyone got any suggestions?

Wood FT

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#18 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 02:51:21 pm
Black Flag

cheque

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#19 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 02:56:20 pm
Black Planet

dave

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#20 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 02:59:40 pm
Blackula
Black Eye
Fear Of A Black Planet
Black Market
Black & Blue
Black Friday
Black Sheep
Pitch Black
Once You've Had Black There's No Going Back

haydn jones

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#21 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 24, 2015, 03:01:56 pm
Black Power i went with! nice list of names though!

haydn jones

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#22 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 25, 2015, 02:49:52 am
« Last Edit: June 25, 2015, 02:57:06 am by haydn jones »

highrepute

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#23 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 25, 2015, 07:30:51 am
Black by popular demand

dave

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#24 Re: [peak][blackwell dale]
June 25, 2015, 07:40:39 am

Black by popular demand

Already in use I'm afraid.

 

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