[Oldmanmatt]

It's taken me two years to reach a reasonable level of fitness/strength, with many setbacks. I still have bad/painful days and sometimes it feels like it will never warm up. I've had an unintended break from training for three weeks, which ended yesterday. The posted routine forms part of my warm up and was agony yesterday.


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[the_dom]

I never film anything because most of my sends tend to come as a surprise to all concerned..

I can relate to this

Sometimes the 'pressure' of filming myself can make me try harder... Some times I wonder if it puts too much pressure on me :D can't win!

Obviously it's different for everyone, but I find it difficult enough projecting with people that I don't know, let alone filming my often protracted projecting efforts. In the last few years, when climbing has been much more off than on, I've found that I've climbed alone much more, and am more comfortable doing it. Obviously it has something to do with the fact that a few years ago I was climbing pretty hard and now I'm not, but I really enjoy climbing without pressure these days.

[Schnell]

STG: fix injuries (progress being made on this)
MTG: do some trad, back to training and 7C this bouldering season, 7B in font this autumn

Three week update which I'll summarise: Go sport climbing to tarn, get rained on and watch tent float away, tweak finger, don't climb anything hard and observe mates also getting injured... Not my best ever trip.

I am exaggerating a bit because overall I enjoyed it as a holiday but it didn't have much to do with climbing. Got up a few low-mid 7s and bagged a few 7a-7a+ onsights which I was happy with, they weren't soft for the grade anyway. Didn't os any 7bs though which was a goal I've had for a while, though it wasn't very realistic considering the injuries and lack of training. I realised I still struggle a lot with proper steep climbing which I'd like to improve before my next sport trip.

Just finished reading Make or Break, which is giving me plenty of material to work on while the finger is getting better. I recommend it to anyway with chronic injury problems. Onwards and rehabwards..

[Dolly]

M Rode into work, Foundry lunchtime with Neil, Pilates in the evening
T Gym core - probably did a bit too much as
W Foundry with Neil but I was weak and rubbish with no pull. Rode into work
T Run at lunchtime. Hot and horrible - I hate road running in the summer.
F
S Lakes. Woke up in Wasdale to surprisingly dry weather. Had breakfast and it started to rain. Drove further down the valley to find a dry Buckbarrow where we did a couple of VS's. Lovely. Went for a look at Eskdale Fisherground which is a lovely spot but it was hot still and midgy by then
S slept.




Happy birthday Webbo
IMO Blockhead is 7b+

[jwi]

STG:
Redpoint Sueños de piedra in Sant Llorenç del Munt. Failure. On the best attempt I fell on the last hard move
Increase strength on two finger pockets, all pairs.

MTG:
Flashing a few non-vertical white boulderprobs in the gym.
Onsight one 8a or five 7c+'s this year. Preferably both.
Do something fairly challenging in Taghia in September.
LTG: TBD

Mon: Rest
Tue :  Sportclimbing in the morning. Put in the clips on a 50m 7b+ for Mrs. Tried 7c but fell on top crux. Couldn't read the sequence and committed to the wrong one. Checked out the second pitch (8a) but it was super dirty (fucking hate crags so secret that no-one climbs there: stupid) and I had no heavy duty brush on the harness. 7c second go. 7b+.
Wed: Strength training.
Thu: Rest
Frid: (Too) late start. Walked the brutal 40min hike in 30° up to St Llorençe del munt. Less than average conditions. Warm up on 7a, could barely get up. Dogged Sueños de piedra, took me a few goes to figure out the crux again. Couldn't remember what I did 2 years ago.
Sat: Paaaarrty! Friend's 40th birthday.
Sun: Walked the 40min hike up to St Llorençe del munt, but some clouds and only 27° . Put in the clips on a short steep 7b+/c for Mrs Jwi. 6-7 tries on Sueños de piedra, high point on the last move on the crux. But its not over after for me. This route really exploit all my weaknesses. Helas, Mrs Jwi absolutely hates this sector. So will probably never go back.



Progression:
Weight: 70-71 kg
8a's onsighted this year: 0/1
7c+'s onsighted this year: 2/5

[fatneck]

In the last few years, when climbing has been much more off than on, I've found that I've climbed alone much more, and am more comfortable doing it. Obviously it has something to do with the fact that a few years ago I was climbing pretty hard and now I'm not, but I really enjoy climbing without pressure these days.

I fully identify with this. I seem to climb much better when I'm out with the wife than out with the lads...