[iain]

STG: Secret Gudgeon Society, Dominatrix, Body Machine from break
S/MTG: The Prow (maybe full), Stone the Loach and E4/5 lime trad.
MTG: Dolomites in September

M: Rest
T: Cheedale two tier. Got on Blockhead which I 'think' I've been on before. Quite basic climbing for the peak. All over the place on working go then a surprisingly straightforward redpoint. I realised later that due to my shoulder injury this is the first non warmup I've topped out this year, a bit of a yyfy.
W: Doorframe aerocap, 3x10min
T: Cheedale Embankment and got on Secret Gudgeon Society. 1st go was terrible, thought about sacking it off. 2nd go managed to work out a sequence, 3rd go was a redpoint where I made it through the crux before letting my foot slip. Quite pleased with that given how it felt 1st go despite not getting the tick.
F: Rest and visiting family arrive.
S: Sneak in an hour+ at the Works. Warm up then volume with 30ish problems in 40 minutes which I tried to group as 4x4's for Ancap. Good session.
S: Doorframe aerocap, 3x10min

Blockhead and Secret Gudgeon Society both appear to get 7b+ now, do they deserve it? (Genuine question btw, I've no idea)

A good week both for climbing and training although I could do with upping the volume/number of moves I'm getting in. More of the same next week hopefully.

Th - Why Me? felt tired since waking, struggled to warm up and didn't feel like I ever really got going. Climbed the bottom wall terribly every time, managed to hold the blocky gaston and move RF to sloper though, so progress.  Nasty fall slipping off while clipping third, thought I was going to deck.

Did the bolting play any part in that?
Good effort on STL!

F - Westway with Conor. 10x routes to 6b. Not much but felt like a training session rather than rehab. for the first time in 7 months.

Nice 

[Luke Owens]

Extreme Ways might not be a good one if you're grade chasing though, isn't it getting 7b+ in next guide?

7c in the most recent version I've seen of the guide (a couple of months ago). Does that differ with peoples opinions on it?

[tomtom]

6 Full on efforts. proper 10-15 min rests between. In the effort above I'd not got my hand in the HUUUGE slot in the roof properly and was trying desperately to udge it in better.. It'll succumb eventually, but there are 3 or 4 'percentage' moves for me..

Looks very stretched ..why not put your feet up when you go for the slot and stay high to get the flake? I bet it's easier .

Yeah you lanky cunt, pick your fucking feet up! Once you've got slot with LH the RF goes on ones of the obvious foothold and LF on the little sidepull at the start, keys you in nicely for move to that finishing crimp.

:p Normally - where I came off is fine - just that my LH wasnt in the roof slot properly and was uncurling.. all the fight is in trying to get that LH to stay in/become crimped etc...

Anyway - if you're calling ME lanky - does that mean you're short Frodo?

[dave]

No worries Shaq, but I still think if you pick your feet up as described it'll work better in favour of the slot hold, should give you a bit of leeway to not have to get it perfectly, as your feet will be working in favour of the direction of the hold a bit more, instead of just being deadhanged underneath it with a swing to hold. On my beta for the rest of the problem the slot always feels crap (as I'm crossing into it at full stretch) but as soon as I pick my feet up and get left foot on the sidepull it keys in and feels great.

[tomtom]

No worries Shaq, but I still think if you pick your feet up as described it'll work better in favour of the slot hold, should give you a bit of leeway to not have to get it perfectly, as your feet will be working in favour of the direction of the hold a bit more, instead of just being deadhanged underneath it with a swing to hold. On my beta for the rest of the problem the slot always feels crap (as I'm crossing into it at full stretch) but as soon as I pick my feet up and get left foot on the sidepull it keys in and feels great.

Ah - OK - you're crossing into it so body position is probably a bit more to the left. I'm dead under it..  TBH thats the first time I've ever had the slot badly and it not felt bomber.. Once got slot I reach for RH high crimp, cut loose (or manage to keep a toe on) and paste a RF on the wall, LF out wide left then I drop into the undercut with my RH - then share. Not the regular method, but feels fine for me..

[SA Chris]

STG - lose some weight, get stronger
LTG - Do some hard stuff

After a great week last week, not so good, combination of relatives visiting and partner being away meant free time was at a premium.

Weights 13st 5, right side of 13 1/2 at least.

M - can't remember, maybe a bit of antagonistics, weights and core
T - Tidied up house!
W - day off work entertaining relatives. Managed a 3 or so mile at Loch Muick, glorious day to be in the hills, even if not climbing. Short walk to beach in evening
T - bit of weights and core. Not doing curls again, they aggravate elbow.
F - Nothing
S - entertaining kids, not a lot of exercise, but outdoors at least.
S - see above. constructed sandpit, cut down bush to make way for traversing wall for kids to play on.

This week, cash in some credits, and make the most of sunshine.

[andy_e]

S - see above. constructed sandpit, cut down bush to make way for traversing wall for "kids" to play on.

[nai]

Blockhead and Secret Gudgeon Society both appear to get 7b+ now, do they deserve it? (Genuine question btw, I've no idea)

Everyone used to say Blockhead was "7b+ really".  I found it ok at 7b but a low, bouldery, crimpy, crux quite suits me, I guess that section is fairly fierce for 7b.
Don't know about SGS (still 7b in the BMC guide) other than comments on RF & ukc websites indicate 7b+ might be fair (pinch of salt required obvs).

Th - Why Me? Nasty fall slipping off while clipping third, thought I was going to deck.

Did the bolting play any part in that?

Not at all, very shaky getting the slot but tried to clip, foot slipped (think it was in the wrong place) after pulling up the rope, belayer was standing directly out behind so I straddled the rope.  Slightly eye watering, couldn't move for about 5 minutes. Could have been worse I guess, a metre lower and I probably still wouldn't be walking.

[shark]

11.5-7


M. AM Tor on own. Perfect temps. Started on undercut to crimps - several goes and touched the edge once. Moved on to Powerband crux and tickled the undercut three times. Tried Rattle Hump start only once but straight away got established on the holds on the left on the easy version. Didnt try to go higher as nervous with only one pad and no spotter. Then went and worked on Ben's and did two good links from the start to almost getting through to the kneebar. Obviously nothing ticked but excited as overall this is the strongest session I've had at the Tor bouldering.
T.
W. AM Tor with Nick C. Dropped a couple of lbs by skipping dinner previous night. Tor. Good temps again. Stick-clipped up Body Machine and worked Anger Management (8a+) on way down. Got last hard move first go. Also linked from by hard clip to break and then did crux below using new method. Next go jugged up to Revelations belay and then dogged way up. Pleased to link from hole to clipping hard clip in middle of wall which was about as good as I've done in the past. 3rd go felt busted but did all right - did crux again but couldn't do clip. Pleasing to compare finger strength improvement on a couple of years ago when I was last on it.
T.
F. PM Gordale with Rob Greenwood (Malham would have been too hot). He was keen to try Cave Route Left Hand (7c+) again. I had a couple of goes up. Great route but crux was extremely powerful and reachy and I struggled to hold the small peg hole you go for - taped fingers probably didnt help. 
S. AM BMC Council Meeting. PM Malham with Ru. Cooler than friday but still a bit too warm and humid. TR'ed Consenting then led and T'Red Free and Even Easier. John D and Al Wilson were on the Oak. I did think of going on something else - but you know how it is. Boots were past best and I was feeling overweight. First go up did OK and linked left traverse from undercut to the top. Then had three goes from ground getting slightly higher each time managing to tickle undercut by third bolt on last attempt. Tried to do a link from throw but was busted. All things considered not too shit on it.
S. Overslept and decided to head back to Sheffield as not especially psyched and to score brownie points. Eve Slightly disappointing fingerboard session.

Good week overall. Taping up fingers seems to protect them well enough. Good to get a benchmark on the Oak but wont be gpoing on the Oak until the Autumn. Planning to step up the volume this week. Probably throw in some easier sport mileage or tradding or soloing at Stanage in run up to Squamish in a few weeks time   

[SA Chris]

S - see above. constructed sandpit, cut down bush to make way for traversing wall for "kids" to play on.

It will be. The panels were given to me by a mate who had a really small wall so not much good unless I want to start to specialise in really cramped traverses and too small to be of use when I finally build my woody,

[cheque]

STG- Finish film without becoming irretrievably crap at climbing.

MTG- 100 routes at 24HHH and The Show Me State in September, Wall of Horrors in October.

LTG- 9a at 48.

Just one day to log this week. Non-stop film work with lots of late nights this week.

Th- Pleasley Vale, usual four attempts at extended Monk's Wall traverse. Did it first three times, dropped it three hand moves from the end last go. This is a personal best.  Compared to how weak and lumbering I felt on this five weeks previous (and that I've done almost nothing but an hour or so here once a week since then) this is very satisfying.

Close to ticking an STG for the first time ever this week! I'm certainly not irretrievably crap, in fact I have a modestly decent base to start climbing again properly from (possibly the fittest/ strongest I've ever been on UK limestone- we'll see when I go to other crags though). Unlikely to be able to fit a Pleasley session in on Thursday this week but after Friday night I'll have no pressure on my free time.

[iain]

Everyone used to say Blockhead was "7b+ really".  I found it ok at 7b but a low, bouldery, crimpy, crux quite suits me, I guess that section is fairly fierce for 7b.
Don't know about SGS (still 7b in the BMC guide) other than comments on RF & ukc websites indicate 7b+ might be fair (pinch of salt required obvs).

Likewise for Blockhead, I found the semi-dyno the hardest bit but then I'm well known for my dynamic style. If SGS is still 7b in the BMC guide then it probably is.

Not at all, very shaky getting the slot but tried to clip, foot slipped (think it was in the wrong place) after pulling up the rope, belayer was standing directly out behind so I straddled the rope.  Slightly eye watering, couldn't move for about 5 minutes. Could have been worse I guess, a metre lower and I probably still wouldn't be walking.

[Doylo]

Extreme Ways might not be a good one if you're grade chasing though, isn't it getting 7b+ in next guide?

7c in the most recent version I've seen of the guide (a couple of months ago). Does that differ with peoples opinions on it?

Think Proctor said it was coming down a while ago, might have changed . Have a look on UKC.

[Luke Owens]

Think Proctor said it was coming down a while ago, might have changed . Have a look on UKC.

Majority says soft 7c on there, no idea... I'll get on it tomorrow anyway, It's not like it would be a bad route to tick irrelvent of grade!

[gme]

m- Yoga 45mins
Tues- Works curcuit board session. 18 move sections of the 7b+ thing. tried to do 8 times with 3 mins rest but gave up after 6 due to it activating my finger. Need to do stuff on bigger holds but then this trashes my skin. Pissed off so hit the pub.
Wed- aerocap in works. red and green circuits up and down no resting. 80 problems and around 800 moves in an hour. Pumped and lost about a kg in sweat. Light rings session.
Thurs- works. 30 mins bouldering then foot on campus 1 min on 3 off. 8 sets but failed on last two. very pumped. Medium session on rings etc. managed 7 dips which is good for me.
Fri- rest
Sat am- hard aerocap 20 on 10 off x 4 alnwick wall.
Sun- hang over of the year. Kids rugby camp at Ross beach yesterday. involves feral kids and dads sitting round a fire drinking. Dont drink loads of Gin after drinking stella for 8 hours, its not clever.

Up and down week as still trying to find what i can do with my injury. Got carried away on tuesday with the high levels of psyche going around and pushed it too much. But found i can do foot on campus so happy with that. Not the most fun thing to do but i like to feel like i have done something at the end of a session and this certainly does. I am obviously shit at it when i see what TB does as i felt 3 mins rest between sets wasnt enough. Finger improving but slowly.
Finger is improving but slowly

[gme]

Re checked the goals i wrote down in week 1.
STG- (3-6months) 7C outside and 7B at school (failed. 7B outside 7A+ at school. Could have done more outside i think as was peaking when i hurt my finger. still think its possible before end of year)
MTG- (6-12 months) 8a still on
LTG- ( 8A and 8b again). still on

Re doing my whole training plan to suit injury.

[the_dom]

Sat: Rocklands - Champside. Head up to Sean’s Roof (7C) - have tried this over a few sessions since 2007, never more than one session every 2 years or so.

Nice one. Got any footage?

None at all - I never film anything because most of my sends tend to come as a surprise to all concerned..

[mr chaz]

I never film anything because most of my sends tend to come as a surprise to all concerned..

I can relate to this

[tomtom]

I never film anything because most of my sends tend to come as a surprise to all concerned..

I can relate to this

Sometimes the 'pressure' of filming myself can make me try harder... Some times I wonder if it puts too much pressure on me :D can't win!

[webbo]

 Mon. Nothing tired after first day back at work following hols.
Tue. Off work 60th birthday, planned to go out climbing. However felt crap so board circuit of 6 problems 4 times each, after 15 problems to warm up. Not going that well. Bike 62.95 miles 3 hrs 44mins. Out with the missus for a meal.
Wed. Off work hangover. Bike 71 miles 4 hours plus.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board going really crap just did 2 sets of warm up problems.
Sun. Board just repeating stuff, better session.
Strange week, need to,get diet back on track about 10lbs over weight.

[tomtom]

Happy birthday Webbo! Now get yer ass up an 8c to make slackers spreadsheet make sense

[webbo]

I might manage 5c with a back wind at the moment.

[shurt]

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar , v close now or more 7b's please
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

m: in laws
t: bed
w: in laws
t: went to Cheddar with Lee. It was very much a get on Still Waters and hopefully get it done. Went bolt to bolt as a warm up which I don't normally do and it all felt desperate and a bit tweeky. Not a good start. Lee had a shocker and couldn't even get through the first hard move into the meat of the route. He came down after a while and I felt rested enough to have a proper bash. It all went really well and weirdly without incident, right arm was pumped by the top but I was soon clipping the chains. I had been going over the moves every night before going to sleep and I think that helped. My last 7b was 5 years ago so YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES. I was so happy at the top and felt at a loose end for the rest of the night. Tried Skullduggery (7a+) but my heart wasn't in it and it required lots of power that I didn't have.
f: more in laws
s: conference in london
s: ditto

[Oldmanmatt]

Cheers JackA

LTG - Do this.

M - Nothing
T - Indoors - Finding it difficult to remember what I did, or structure anything indoors since the weather improved. Various injury rehab bits. Shoulder stretches.
W - Nothing
Th - Same as Tuesday. Very hot indoor session. Shoulder stretches.
F - Nothing
Sa - Longish drive down to Petit Bois to get some cooler conditions. Managed to buy the last pain aux raisin in Chapelle la reine, warmed up, did some blues, then started trying to get a sequence together for a red circuit problem called le pendule 6A/+ depending on where you look, need to be a bit fresher for this one. Did Quelle conque which is always fun. Still a bit damp in places, and full of mosquitos.

Had a break and drove back to the trois pignons to have a look at a couple of problems in  Anarchodrome. Eventually found the problem I was looking for. http://bleau.info/anarchodrome/9600.html

Gradually worked it to the last move, but really sequency and balancy, took a long time to work out the best holds. I'd forgotten my phone too which meant no sneaky beta checking. I probably should've started with the other foot....another in a very long list of probs that need to  put to bed. I wanted to get this one, but it was getting far too hot and late.

Su - Had a lie-in, did some ironing, will spend the rest of the day learning to cook Sichuan food. Shoulder stretches.

Try this...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25814.msg487350#msg487350

Worked for me.


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[fried]

I'm finding it difficult to get any movement with my elbows locked. I'm just trying to go back horizontally as far as possible at the moment ....I have a long way to go, I'm just about directly over my head at the moment.

Did you find it useful to do more dynamic movement without locking your elbows? How long did it take to be able to perform properly?