[Jim]

Noticed via retweets that he's now moaning on Twitter that he didn't mean to start anything on 8a.dick. I'm probably being harsh because he's American and I don't get their way of saying things but this doesn't come across very well at all.

Actually I'm probably not being harsh because anyone who calls themselves J-star (or allows other people to call them that) has to be a choad.

do you want me to stop calling you Jazz-Spa?

I believe his real handle is jizz-spa

[Jaspersharpe]

I've never even set foot in lagers' sauna.

[a dense loner]

I have to sneak in when he's asleep

[Luke Owens]

Does this guy actually call himself J-Star? Seriously?!

[SA Chris]

Word.

[andyh]

Time to split the last page and a half?

[Nibile]

This ego-stupidity-hypocrisy driven farce brings my mind back to the beauty, honesty and simplicity of the iron.
That's the weight.
You either move it or you don't.
There's no "soft for the weight", "I lift for the experience" and such BS.
This stuff makes me want to become a GH-steroid fuelled powerlifter.

[Fiend]

Good discussion guys 

[SA Chris]

This stuff makes me want to become a GH-steroid fuelled powerlifter.

Become??

[cha1n]

Now wishing to offend Barrows who obviously put in a lot of work on the route but is it not perfectly reasonable that it's not 9a (J-Star arrogance aside)?

It certainly gets done a lot.

*EDIT* Ondra thinks it's 9a, so I guess his opinion counts!

[Nibile]

This stuff makes me want to become a GH-steroid fuelled powerlifter.

Become??

I knew that someone was going to say it, but I forgot to edit the post!
 

[Nibile]

This thing reminds me about a similar experience that a very good friend of mine has had. He was in Ticino and had just climbed his first 8a, so he was full of happiness at the 1001 Bloc hostel, where he bumped into a very well known Italian climber. He asked my friend why he was so psyched and he said that he had done his first 8a, and named the problem. The very well known climber told him that it was not 8a, but 7c+ and a soft one. My friend obviously was a bit gutted. When he told me about this fact I promptly checked the climber's scorecard and he had obviously taken the 8a grade. As e eryone else.
Some people just can't help being assholes.

[blamo]

Does this guy actually call himself J-Star? Seriously?!

It goes beyond that.  He has his own fan club t-shirts...

http://www.accessfund.org/AccountTempFiles/Account401621/images/z2014_Tank-Large.jpg

[tomtom]

Is this the thread where we can take the piss out of Jezz-spur?

[andy_e]

I heard he called himself Jezz after his hero Jezza.

[mr chaz]

I believe his real handle is jizz-spa

Isn't that his Kiwi cousin?

[dave]

he had obviously taken the 8a grade. As everyone else.

See my post above.

[tomtom]

I believe his real handle is jizz-spa

Isn't that his Kiwi cousin?

:D or Saffa...

[iwasmexican]

[pedantry] !!his website name doesn't even make sense, stars don't orbit anything!! [/pedantry]

[Wood FT]

I thought he came across well in the enormocast interview with him. I assume the whole J-star thing is an expanded in-joke. Lets focus a bit more closely on the issue - Jens is fucking mental.

[Jerry Morefat]

I thought he came across well in the enormocast interview with him. I assume the whole J-star thing is an expanded in-joke. Lets focus a bit more closely on the issue - Jens is fucking mental.

I also thought he came across pretty well. The tone of this thread has become pretty nasty pretty quickly. I took his statement as more of comment on the 'plasticity' of grades and that different routes suit different people rather than anything more boastful.

[Doylo]

This thing reminds me about a similar experience that a very good friend of mine has had. He was in Ticino and had just climbed his first 8a, so he was full of happiness at the 1001 Bloc hostel, where he bumped into a very well known Italian climber. He asked my friend why he was so psyched and he said that he had done his first 8a, and named the problem. The very well known climber told him that it was not 8a, but 7c+ and a soft one. My friend obviously was a bit gutted. When he told me about this fact I promptly checked the climber's scorecard and he had obviously taken the 8a grade. As e eryone else.
Some people just can't help being assholes.

Komilator by any chance? Jstar obviously found Era Vella easier than 9a for him but he wanted the 9a 3rd go tick. Most climbers get a grade conflict from time to time. I had one last week, am I just or beast or is it overgraded!

[a dense loner]

Overgraded

[Doylo]

Usually

[ghisino]

is this route more or less the same intensity all the way, very long, with no rests, as i understand?

if yes i propose you a very scientific method to find out the real grade.

1) ukb crow funds me a ticket to margalef, the equivalent of two weeks of my ordinary income, and, depending on how step 2 will be implemented, some kind of menacing looking gorilla/security guard.
2) i spend two weeks trying to climb it with the least possible number of sections, each overlapping each other by one or two moves. I'll make sure to climb each section independently and as rested as possible, which might imply aiding parts of the route with hooks and resting for 30 minutes on a belay seat.
3) knowing that i'm a retatively quick sport 8a climber and 7b/c boulderer, we will then know that the route is made up of a certain number of 7c/+ sport sections, 7b/+ boulder problems, and possibly a few harder individual moves.
4) we will then be able to ask on the 8a.nu forum if someone has a mathematical formula to calculate the grade of a route, once the grade of its overlapping no-rest sections is known.

i'm open to suggestions for steps 2,3 and 4, including not doing anything of the above, but i think step 1 is crucial