A few new problems from the winter/early spring on South Peak grit which might be of interest to people who like to wander off piste.
Rowsely Woods
String Theory 7a
This is a long crack in the roof of the tube like cave left of Blackfoot etc. It climbs all the way from the back from an undercut into straight in hand/foot jamming. It’s a bit like The Vice turned 90 degrees, only 4-5ft off the deck and involves yarding between near perfect hand/fists. It finishes by reaching out above the entrance hole to a slot/ finger crack at which point you swing your feet down. It’s a pity the finish is a bit poor/arbitrary as this has the potential to become quirky classic.
Bauston Tor
The Southern Esoteric Bouldering Companion 7a+
The crack in the roof of the cave at the right side of the crag exiting right onto some flat ledges. I did this a couple of days after String Theory whilst in a short lived spell of ‘crack form’ it’s shorter but far more technical.
Shining Cliff
LLAP 7a+
A direct line on the obscure Monostrosity wall which is tucked away left of Peaches and Crust under a curtain of holly. Hard pulls on small holds. The headwall has been cleared to give a better finish to all 3 problems on this wall. Nice rock. F.A. Tim B
Hillcarr/Endcliffe Woods
Covert Affair 6a
A tricky sit start on the arête right of Dad’s Arête then follows edges to finish as for Dads.
An easier reason to visit this unusual boulder and could be combined with the problems at ‘Bee Block’.
Black Garden
Boss Stick 7a
The lower half of a two tiered arête below the first block/buttress as you drop down from the bend off the path. Sit starts and climbs some grippy rock up the arête to the halfway ledge. Currently sporting a scar from a broken hold which should soon be repaired (the broken hold currently resides in the crack to the left) though can be climbed without. F.A. Tim B
Black Rocks
There are a couple of small blocks around the swamp behind the block with the route Physical Graffiti. Obscure, very definitely for very local locals…
Local Nightlife 5/6a+
Sit start the short arête (the dug out foot block to start from looks fragile). Adding some not too contrived rules (no heels, no ledge out right) this is trickier than it looks. Climbed by lantern and named after some accidentally disturbed car park activity…
Swamp Fever 5 The left hand line on the tear drop shaped slab to the right. The right hand version is called Waiting for Emlyn 6a.
Stanton Moor
Chicken Run 6a
More variations on the slab. Start as for Chicken Ninja and then pad across to the left arête.
