[lagerstarfish]

this Shark vs The Oak battle is better than Game of Thrones

did the dragon come off worse than you Shark?

hope it wasn't your sword hand

[duncan]

STGs:
Get over this bloody shoulder tweak. Nearly there - avoid recurrence.
Improve hip pain and flexibility
Lose 1.5kg.
E3 before return of family
MTG: E5 by end of June
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7c RP.

71.5kg

M - Westway. 10 routes to 6b. Amazing, hardly felt shoulder!
T - Building One (The NuArch). Pottering to V1. This was interesting. May write a mini-review at some point but this week’s PowerClub is long enough already.
W -
T - Shoulder stability stuff
F -
S - St Govan's, with Mike Highbury: various including Photocall (E2), Line Out (E1).
S - St Govan's: various including Clean Hand Blues Band, Vice is Nice (E2), Kinvig (E1).

Tough week at work but good for climbing. Losing weight. Feel like I've finally turned a corner with the shoulder. Pembroke was great, given the forecast perhaps we should have gone further but N. Wales feels like a mission after a busy week. Strong SEasterlies and disinclination to walk very far meant crag choice was also rather conservative. Good to do Photocall, a stern E2, in good style after 6 months of little activity.

Work should calm down after Wednesday. Family back at the weekend, then conference in Singapore, followed by week off. Had thought about going to Thailand but not inspired by sweaty, polished sport routes and the whole spitting barefoot trustafarian^TM scene. Wishing I was going to Pembroke instead now, if I had another month of bachelordom I'd be throwing myself at the E5s by the end of it. Need to be cautious with the shoulder and don't have the miles in my arms to do so now. Next opportunity for a concentrated spell of trad.ing is in June, aim get on something then.

Plan: one more trad. trip if I can find anyone to bunk off work on Thursday or Friday. Otherwise gradually increase the mileage.

Update. In an act of stupendous dumbfuckery I set fire to my hand. The pain is excruciating but comes and goes in waves. i am typing with my left hand. JUst back from AandE. Thanks for the encourgement guys but im out of action for a couple of weeks I guess. Signing off - more pills await 

Gutting! Hope this is nothing too serious.

This could work for you: think of it as a period of enforced tapering (keep off the pies). There are numerous tales of folk getting tweaked, taking a month off and coming back stronger.

[Jaspersharpe]

this Shark vs The Oak battle is better than Game of Thrones

did the dragon come off worse than you Shark?

hope it wasn't your sword hand

He obviously didn't read the instructions properly on that Lagerstarfish Industries DIY Methlab ^tm  that you sold him.

Get well soon shark.

[nai]

(I do secretly want to know what counts as stupendous dumbfuckery)

I'm going for something to do with working out while making poached eggs at midnight

[cheque]

My theory involves a birthday cake and a hell of a lot of candles.

[JohnM]

Weight: 10st 7lb (not as bad as I had feared!).
STG: Strength and conditioning phase, Bat Route.
MTG: Indian Summer, Kilnsey or Bat Route, Malham
LTG: Big wall/hard multipitch, 8A/+ boulder problem (bloc style < 10 moves), UK 8b+/c, live in Spain.

Monday: Therabanding, dumbbell complexes, stretching.
Tuesday: Warm up bouldering, fingerboarding (3 x 10s front 3, back 3, front 2, back 2, middle 2, front 3 half crimp, front 3 full crimp), mono assisted one armers pyramid (1/pinky, 2/pinky, 3/ring, 4/ring, 5/middle and back down), 2 x sets of 25 pullup pyramids (25 with weight, 25 w/o), 100 pull ups in 24 minutes.
Wednesday: Warm up bouldering (finally after 2 weeks in Spain, 2 weeks off and a week in Kalymnos I managed something hardish (for me) on the board - body finally waking up!).  CWP fingerboard routine, 3 sets each of jugs, mini jugs and pockets lock off training on the systems board, undercut lock off training underneath campus board (see last week), core - 3 L-hangs ~ 10 seconds, 3 x 6 side leg raises, 3 x 7 leg raises. 
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Shipwreck cove - Walk for 2 hours after the guy at the campsite said it was only a mile (Welsh mile!).  Try to warm up on a long 7a+ but feel terrible and get really pumped and have to get taken.  Top roped after in one to get draws but still feel terrible.  Put the draws in Air Show (8a) and do all the moves but then the tide is coming in and we have to leave.  Go up to Trial Wall.  Do a really nice 7a which felt really hard and then try Skull Attack (7b+).  Fall quite high up greasing off small quartz holds in the sun.  Lower off and set off straight away and do it sketching a bit at the top.
Sunday: Shipwreck cove - Warm up bolt to bolt on Air Show, lower off, have 5 mins rest and then do it next try.  This route is really good and one of the best 8as out there.  Finish by onsighting Two Ton Depot (7b+) which is equally good and has some stern move right below the chain!

Another good week and weekend away enjoying the lovely spring sunshine.  This weekend followed a similar pattern to last weekend where on the Saturday I felt terrible with all kinds of DOMs and shoulder and elbow pain and went to bed feeling wrecked expecting Sunday to be a write off but waking up feeling good and climbing ok on the Sunday.  Apart from the ongoing shoulder impingements I now have a pain deep in the elbow in the middle in the forearm elbow insertion area.  Need to keep and eye on this and try and find a solution.       

[lagerstarfish]

My theory involves a birthday cake and a hell of a lot of candles.

flaming sambuca, brandy hotspoons or somesuch?

[cheque]

[kelvin]

My theory involves a birthday cake and a hell of a lot of candles.

flaming sambuca, brandy hotspoons or somesuch?

Nah - it'll be that deadhanging whilst ironing malarky he's been up to. Probably used the hot iron to add weight...

[iain]

I'm going for something to do with making out while working poached eggs at midnight

[fried]

Get wall soon Shark, the lime has been called.

M- nothing
T- Off work and at Roche aux Oiseaux to 'have a look at' 2 specific problems: rouge-gorge; one of the best 6As in the forest and L'Oiseau-Lyre either soft 6a+ or nails 6A depending on who you listen to. Had a quick warm up, then got on L'oiseau-lyre which is crimpy and vertical, figured the tough move to the break, but needed a change of holds and went for a go on Rouge gorge, got easily up to the top of the descent holds, just need to work out my feet placements for the long reach for the top. Took a couple of few falls and had a wander about.

Went back to problem 'A' which was unfortunately in the sun and had a good few more go, but I need cooler weather for this (25° in the afternoon). Spy on some German's who are doing Rouge-gorge, pick up some useful beta. I'll be back soon. Flash round a lot of blue problems, really happy with the way I'm flashing through the 5s at the moment.

W - Rest
T/ Fr/ Sa/ Su - Folks biyearly visit, glorious weather, a lot of walking around Paris and a 2h walk around trois pignons.

Picked up a nasty sore throat on Sunday, but hopefully normal climbing service will resume shortly.

[tomtom]

this Shark vs The Oak battle is better than Game of Thrones

More sex, nudity and gratuitous violence then?

Always wondered what went on at the Malham scene...

[shark]

Then moved on to the Meltdown (7B). Took a bit longer to work out the sequence but it turns out there aren't really any hard moves. One tensiony move early on, then just lots of easy but enjoyable moves on positive holds. Once I had worked out all the moves, it went first go and I felt like there was still more left in the tank. First 7B YYFY! It suits my style and is probably a bit soft(?) but I'll take it.

 

(I do secretly want to know what counts as stupendous dumbfuckery)

Impatient muppet + can of petrol + garden bonfire =
 
WARNING images may induce nausea and vomiting

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/16591158553/

And after dead skin removed

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/17025202249/

[lagerstarfish]

are your tips OK?

[nai]

That should come with a warning for the queasy

Hope you heel quickly.

[shark]

are your tips OK?

Yes they were mercifully unaffected though I have some impressive flappers below the third joint

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/17185418906/

The bandaging is going to be an impediment though.

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/17211370635/

On the positive side my leftarm and finger are substantially weaker than the right and a lot of the key moves on the Oak are off the left so I can train those moves on undercuts and gastons in isolation

[shark]

That should come with a warning for the queasy

I thought that would be obvious and a just reward for rubberneckers

[nai]

That should come with a warning for the queasy

I thought that would be obvious and a just reward for rubberneckers

Suffice to say it's somewhat worse than I was anticipating.

Looks like you could take up off-widthing while you're healing.

[Sasquatch]

(I do secretly want to know what counts as stupendous dumbfuckery)

Impatient muppet + can of petrol + garden bonfire =

With that kind of intro, how can you not rubberneck

I was hoping for a pic of the event rather than the aftermath though.  I have visions of your hand inside a hand puppet(muppet) which is holding a can of petrol and peeing into a garden fire thereby creating a rather exciting, but painful, aftermath. 

Hope you heal fast!

[shark]

That should come with a warning for the queasy

I thought that would be obvious and a just reward for rubberneckers

Suffice to say it's somewhat worse than I was anticipating

 

I'll add a warning

[Boredboy]

Holy crap, that injury looks really painful! Hope it heals up quickly for you, should be good for the Malham late summer / autumn season?

[kelvin]

I recommend Elizabeth Arden 8hr cream.

[shark]

Holy crap, that injury looks really painful! Hope it heals up quickly for you, should be good for the Malham late summer / autumn season?

Cheers. Think it looks worse than it is so Im hoping for 2/3 weeks if I avoid an infection. Hand jamming will be longer.

Just done a session and there is quite a variety to do on my left arm on the woodie static and pulling.

Going to treat myself to a glass or two of duty free tonight though   

[webbo]

are your tips OK?

Yes they were mercifully unaffected though I have some impressive flappers below the third joint

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/17185418906/

The bandaging is going to be an impediment though.

www.flickr.com/photos/57865950@N06/17211370635/

On the positive side my leftarm and finger are substantially weaker than the right and a lot of the key moves on the Oak are off the left so I can train those moves on undercuts and gastons in isolation

Never mind climbing. Wanking is going to be challenge.

[Boredboy]

Just done a session and there is quite a variety to do on my left arm on the woodie static and pulling
[/quote]

Good effort, that's the definition of psyched for training!