The semis are difficult, but having accurate real time scores up should be simple enough and would make things loads easier to follow, sadly it doesn't seem to be that easy judging from the last two comps...
Nathaniel Coleman said that he would definitely compete at the World Championships in Munich, and is considering buying tickets for Asia. The guy doesn't have any sponsorships yet, hopefully that will change soon.
Alex Johnson's commentary respect Pooch's injury was a bit lame indeed. When you can't say anything good, it's best to say nothing at all.
For a while, the website 8a.nu took a stand on the issue by supposedly not reporting any ascents done by climbers with a BMI under 17 (a number the site computed using the height and weight the climber himself had entered into his online profile).
I thought this when he was going on about Ondra having weak shoulders or some shit - AJ did well to try and put some context in without making him sound like a tit...
Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs Lots more – she’s very honest and open
Nathaniel - new kid on the block, but looks like he's got serious campus power.
I'm assuming the people commenting on the issue of Puccio's weight are aware of the podcast interview in which she discusses in some detail her recent weight loss:Quote from: trainingbeta spiel Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs Lots more – she’s very honest and openhttps://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-021-alex-puccio/?portfolioID=3838
Quote from: fatneck on June 09, 2015, 01:13:30 pmI thought this when he was going on about Ondra having weak shoulders or some shit - AJ did well to try and put some context in without making him sound like a tit...I don't think he was completely off the mark. Ondra often struggles noticeably on the more board-style problems (eg M4). Clearly, he's not weak by normal standards, but compared to Jan and Dmmitrii those problem don't suit him.I thought there was a great mix of competitors in male finals, mainly because there were such contrasting superpowers on display. Ondra - brilliant with heels, super flexible and good reach. Dmmitrii - lock off beast. Jan - bouncing giant and volume crusher. Sean - Mr smooth. Nathaniel - new kid on the block, but looks like he's got serious campus power.Problems looked great in general, bar M4 which was a bit of a let down. Far too easy for those guys. I'm sure it's much harder to find the line between impossible and too easy on basic stuff, where sequence finding and foot slips don't help separate the climbers.