[a dense loner]

I don't understand standard? M4 had no pockets on it at all, nor did anyone campus 360?

[Pako]

Dense, it did, check the video if it is still up.

[a dense loner]

Eh? Sorry I must be losing it! I thought it went to a big half ball volume with another above this then out to black triangular volume to match long crimp to little volume tag into crimp then top 

[standard]

Eh? Sorry I must be losing it! I thought it went to a big half ball volume with another above this then out to black triangular volume to match long crimp to little volume tag into crimp then top 

That was m4 in the semi. We're talking about the final.

[dontfollowme]

I noticed the commentator made reference to shouty and less shouty man! Coverage was OK, the stream cutting out a couple of times was annoying though.

[ducko]

problems didnt look great, shame about puccio and anna, good to see shauna getting back into the swing of things.

[tomtom]

Slight tangent... but...

Looking at televised sport - some of the most successful 'franchises' are those that have very tight control over the TV/Media output. For example, the Premier League -at every ground the TV feed (they are ALL televised) is generated by the same company at all grounds, given the same branding and same (high) production values. The same occurs with F1 too... (and I believe the World Cup now, dare I mention FIFA..). In both sports in earlier times, the TV was run by the host country/club etc.. and you got a much more 'variable' product quality.

In the same way - it would seem to make sense for the organisation that runs these things (god knows what its called) to use the same camera operators, lighting crew, sound people, commentators (it seems to do this shouty man!) - graphics, streaming company etc. etc. etc... They may even generate a decent enough (consistent enough) product to sell to some late night TV channel

Of course they may well be doing the above - but I've just not realised! (in which case do it better!).

I think the format of the semi's and finals works pretty well as a TV experience btw... just that its a bit shonkily done at times...

[Doylo]

I watched a bit of the start. Alex Johnson basically said Puccio's injury was a consequence of starving herself!

[TheTwig]

Stayed up to watch the final.

Absolutely sick climbing. Dimitry just trying to static EVERYTHING is a must-watch as always. Coxsey did well and is looking on form, she should have a good season.

Amazed Alex Johnson pretty much accused Puccio of starving herself (nutrition problems = torn acl) when in fact it seems she had a really awkward fall on less than adequate warm-up mats.

The americans seem to be doing really well this year, the Nathaniel guy is a bit of a wad, and Mascaranas(sp) went into beast-mode in the final.

Highlight of the night: the look on Hojers face when he came out to do M4. That was some super-saiyan shit right there! 

[jwi]

Just because something is likely to be true, it doesn't always bear saying

[Doug]

Pooch's update on her injury: https://instagram.com/p/3nhVKNGV6A/

She said last night that she basically landed in the splits. Imagine getting this wrong:

[Pako]

Perhaps someone can enlighten me on this topic, but can malnutrition really increase the chance of injuring your acl when you fall in a bad position? I really can't see how, and thought the fact that Johnson brought it up to be pretty pointless and just dickish. On another note I was very sad when Dmitry fell on m3, otherwise he climbed like a beast. His beta on m2 was quite fun to watch. Was anyone else not able to watch his top of m4? It cuts out just as he starts and holds the swing on a 2 finger pocket with one arm, and comes back just as he walks off. Bloody depressing. I really hope the guy gets back in his swing with competing, or starts beasting outside, that would be a sight to see. His style is just so sick.

[Duma]

Yeah was pretty shocked when she brought up pooches weight.
Anyway, good comp overall I thought, only downsides score updating and the stream dropping out a few times. (plus the injuries, but that's hardly the ifsc's fault) setting spot on, good looking problems with multiple solutions, split field well at all stages, and all got done I think bar F4 in the final?
Shame Akiyo just has to not fuck up to take the overall now, though I do think the gap between the best girls and the pack has narrowed.

Now why isn't there a Japan round?

[jwi]

Perhaps someone can enlighten me on this topic, but can malnutrition really increase the chance of injuring your acl when you fall in a bad position?

Yes, being in a catabolic state increases risk of injuries. This has been well known for, oh, a few hundred years at least. There is no way to know if someone is in a catabolic state without monitoring them closely so that's one reason it's tasteless to speculate.

Of course injuries can happen to anyone, sometimes shit just happens: there is a tendency among some to believe that “life is fair” and that (other) people are somehow to be blamed for their misfortunes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Just-world_hypothesis

[Pako]

Do the lack of nutrients weaken the ligaments or something, making it more likely for a bad fall to go wrong? Interesting stuff.

[jwi]

As far as I recall the main problem with being in a catabolic state (which can happen due to overtraining or calorie deficiency etc)  is that tendon, muscle, and ligaments heal slower after overload and get progressively weaker.

Malnutrition in the sense of not getting enough minerals and vitamins is probably quite rare for athletes.

And of course, severe malnutrition leads to osteoporosis. That's happened to a climber I know. Broke her leg in several places from a one metre fall...

[a dense loner]

Apologies Standard and Pako! Someone said the final was at 11.30 gmt so I presumed it was at 11.30 gmt and not bloody 23.30!!! I realised the final must have already happened when going past pets r us on the way to the station about 5 mins after posting! Obviously I didn't want to look at the thread again til I watched it in case someone gave away the winners.
Final was good, they really need to sort the semi's out in terms of camera angles and room to film the whole problem tho. Johnson is actually growing on me as a commentator since she was quite informed and didn't mention her dog every few sentences like on previous occasions.
I also think she had a point re malnutrition, obviously pot and kettle but a point nonetheless.

[Baldy]

Anyone know what happened to Anna?

[Danny]

I don't know whether the American young guns are attending the remaining WC events (suspect not), but I reckon Puccio should consider donating her crowd funded cash to get them to some more events - if possible.

As for the injury thing - malnourishment speculation on air was well below the belt, IMO.

[a dense loner]

I don't know how Alex giving away her crowd funding would sit legally? Personally if I donated money to her I'd want her to use it, say maybe nx yr, and would want my money back if she donated it to others. I don't know how that would sit either?

[Danny]

Having said that, she's probably spending it all on the op/rehab. If I were in her shoes I'd poll my funders and give in proportion to those wishing to see it donated. I'm guessing most of her funders are Septics, and thus are beside themselves with the future (and current) prospects of their new wads. Actually, if I were Alex I'd probably spend it all on high quality drugs, and treat myself to a footless 8A in a month or two. 

[fried]

I thought the setting was pretty spot on all the way through, especially in the semis.

Finals was good fun, but as usual the semis are incomprehensible, I don't know if it's even possible to find a format for them that works as a TV spectator sport.

Good to see Mascarenas do well, she looked good last year and I tipped her for a podium place in Vail.

[Duma]

The semis are difficult, but having accurate real time scores up should be simple enough and would make things loads easier to follow, sadly it doesn't seem to be that easy judging from the last two comps...

[Duma]

Shauna showing Adam who's boss...

[Pako]

Nathaniel Coleman said that he would definitely compete at the World Championships in Munich, and is considering buying tickets for Asia. The guy doesn't have any sponsorships yet, hopefully that will change soon.