[nai]

STG - drop 5-10 lbs.
T - Last FB Session.  in total in 4 weeks added 30-60lbs on every grip for repeaters.  Granted I cam in weak, but ended the cycle at the highest total hanging weight for mid 2, front 2, back 2, and matched my PB on 1/2 crimp and sloper.  (It'd be perfect if I could get my BW would back down to fall levels. )

Surely the extra body weight means you're hanging even more than it reads on paper?

Maybe not if you've added muscle mass I guess

[Sasquatch]

I measure all of my hangs at total hanging weight, so BW plus added weight.  For example, I did front two on the lower BM2K 2 finger pockets at 182 BW + 13lbs, so 195lbs total weight.  In October, I did them at 170lbs plus 10lbs, so 180 Lbs total weight. 

If I can maintain the strength while dropping BW, then that'll be great

We'll see how the campusing goes though, I think the extra BW there will make a really big difference.

[nai]

That's a good idea. I see now looking back at my diary, best effort in October on F3 was +3kg when I weighed 56.7kg. Last time out I only hung BW but that's now 60.9. So a net gain of over 1kg. Rah

[nik at work]

F3?

[nai]

Front 3.

[nik at work]

Ah of course. I was thinking hold not hand for some reason.

[Sasquatch]

That's a good idea. I see now looking back at my diary, best effort in October on F3 was +3kg when I weighed 56.7kg. Last time out I only hung BW but that's now 60.9. So a net gain of over 1kg. Rah

Stronger is stronger

[csl]

Not had time for much climbing unfortunately... 75hr work weeks aren't fun.

2 short hard boulder sessions before work - got a V9 in two halves and other stuff up to V7.

[a dense loner]

56.7 kilo!!! I buy sweets in that weight! Jim eats them tho

[nik at work]

STG - trad project
MTG - 8c and age related targets
LTG - 9a
BHAG - bruderliebe

M - Climbing wall, did all the new boulder round problems in 20 minutes. Flashed everything bar one.
T - BM session, +40kg. Tried to do my usual progression but couldn't get beyond the bottom rung two finger pocket. At the time I was a bit disappointed and pissed off about this but thinking about it I was previously doing 10s hangs whereas this time I did 20s hangs (which is almost twice as long ) so in retrospect a pretty good session.
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - S centre parcs en famile, A.K.A. nothing apart from wallet rapeage.

OK start, tailed off. But probably a nice break for my aging carcass to repair over the long weekend.

[gme]

 

56.7 kilo!!! I buy sweets in that weight! Jim eats them tho

My eldest spawn is only a kg less than this. 14 year old lanky streak of piss that he is.

[JohnM]

Reading about the amount of weight people are adding while finger boarding has made realise I have been slacking big time.  I rarely add more than 5kg.  40kg sounds like a lot!  How long did it take you to progress to that weight?

[nik at work]

I think 40 kg is a lot too
But seriously, 40kg is a lot (I weigh about 57-58kg, so around 70% of bodyweight). I'd say it's an unusually large weight and not something most people do, I reckon 20kg is probably as high as most go to and I'd expect a "usual" amount for the weight-adding fraternity would be 10kg, none of that is based on science or fact but good old honest to goodness arm waving speculation. Anyway I don't do +40kg every session, I'd say I probably go that high at most once a week and probably less than that, say 2-3 times a month?? I like to mix up my fingerboard sessions, sometimes longer hangs with less weight (or no weight), sometimes long steady sessions, sometimes short high weight max rep sessions, sometimes one arm, sometimes etc etc... It stops me getting bored, works my fingers/arms/body but is not especially based in science beyond the fact that I keep on being able to hang on a bit longer or with a bit more weight.
It probably took me a couple of months to get up to +40kg, but I did it in a stupid way. I only had/have limited access to weights (2x20kg plates, 1x15kg plates, 1x20kg weight-vest - recent acquisition) so my steps were quite large. Coupled to my inability to approach anything in a steady a reasoned fashion this meant I rapidly went from starting out with the BM to hanging as much steel as possible from my waist. Luckily I have 20 years-ish of fairly obsessive climbing behind me which has probably pre-conditioned my body for the fact that I'm an idiot.
Anybody got anything useful to add?

[Sasquatch]

Doing max hangs style workouts (look up eva lopez stuff on here and interweb) I started out at 50 lbs (22kg?) and over 3 months ended up at about 110lbs (50kg).

[the_dom]

Reading about the amount of weight people are adding while finger boarding has made realise I have been slacking big time.  I rarely add more than 5kg.  40kg sounds like a lot!  How long did it take you to progress to that weight?

Be very careful - if you're not gradual, you'll find that there are plenty of 'supporting' tendons and ligaments that often aren't as ready as your fingers. I've had wrist problems from doing repeaters on the Beastmaker 35 degree slopers with 20+ kgs on, as a result of the angle that you're forced to hang from, but exacerbated significantly by the weight, whereas repeaters on the small crimps with the same weight wasn't a problem.

[Matt002]

 

Reading about the amount of weight people are adding while finger boarding has made realise I have been slacking big time.  I rarely add more than 5kg.  40kg sounds like a lot!  How long did it take you to progress to that weight?

As per the Lopez style, this is only a single rep.

My 1 rep max (18mm edge) 5 sec hang is +40kg
But reporters x 6 reps on same edge is only +15Kg

As for 20 second hangs lopez style, I would be skeptical about the benefits of this.  for me lopez hangs are max hangs and more to do with power for a single rep, 20 seconds seems too long.

[Dolly]

M Pilates
T
W Something called Grid strength at the gym. Basically go at it as hard as you can for a minute for an exercise such as squats, deadlifts, tricep extensions etc. Utterly knackering. Only 30 minutes but it took me 4 days to stop aching
T
F
S Light core session at the gym
S 10 easy routes at the gym


Bit of a rubbish week with not enough climbing, too much work and too much aching

[kelvin]

Luckily I have 20 years-ish of fairly obsessive climbing behind me which has probably pre-conditioned my body for the fact that I'm an idiot.
Anybody got anything useful to add?

Only that how you've progressed with fingerboarding is probably textbook how not to do it but it shows what we can achieve if we fully understand how our own body responds, rather than how it's supposed to respond.
The Ondra interview that was posted online yesterday - up to four 45min training sessions a day, with at least an hour's rest between each session and Fridays off. I've heard many a decent climber say it takes them at least an hour to warm up before they even start trying - and that's the thing, for them it probably does. Ondra obviously can batter a quick session out and his body responds. Maybe that helps his recovery, enabling him to train so often but whatever it is, he's worked out what's right for him.
Much like you on your fingerboard sessions.

[Luke Owens]

Been lazy and haven't posted in weeks mainly due to not actually doing much in the week just the odd beastmaker session but have been going out one day on the weekends. Been really busy with work/family/house etc.

Had a couple of good weekend bouldering days; one at Tanygrisiau and one at Porth Nefoedd. Ticked a couple of classic 7A's I was psyched about.

Here's a couple of videos I made:

Tanygrisiau - vimeo.com/118547992
Porth Nefoedd - vimeo.com/119072113

So, last week was still pretty uneventful but I'm back on the training this week and feeling better for it.

Just one session last week at Porth Ysgo on Saturday.

Ticked some classics: Ugly Women (6A+/B), Made In Heaven (6B+) and Trons Brown (6B+).

Also tried Fast Cars (6C+), Popcorn Party (7A) and Thagomizer (7A+).

Got nowhere on Fast Cars, can do all of Popcorn Party apart from the move taking the right hand out of the letter box hold at the start (Felt like an issue with not being able to put weight through feet). Only had a couple of goes on Thagomizer and was surprisingly OK on it. It's an upside down fridge hugging prow, a mini Lou Ferrino.

This week I've made the decision to focus on posterior chain exercises going forward to asses my possibly weak lower back/glutes. I have a major problem putting weight through the feet and keeping my hips in on steep stuff.

[Johnny Brown]

I find Popcorn Party really weird and much harder than the given grade. I think I've only done it once. With so many holds it always seems like you should be able to get weight on your feet, and I always wriggle about trying every which way. I suspect the way is just to power through quickly.

[Matt002]

Luckily I have 20 years-ish of fairly obsessive climbing behind me which has probably pre-conditioned my body for the fact that I'm an idiot.
Anybody got anything useful to add?

Only that how you've progressed with fingerboarding is probably textbook how not to do it but it shows what we can achieve if we fully understand how our own body responds, rather than how it's supposed to respond.
The Ondra interview that was posted online yesterday - up to four 45min training sessions a day, with at least an hour's rest between each session and Fridays off. I've heard many a decent climber say it takes them at least an hour to warm up before they even start trying - and that's the thing, for them it probably does. Ondra obviously can batter a quick session out and his body responds. Maybe that helps his recovery, enabling him to train so often but whatever it is, he's worked out what's right for him.
Much like you on your fingerboard sessions.

Very true.  I read a blog recently by a guy who trained hardcore including finger boarding twice every day for a month.  He mentioned he had 3 rest days total in that time. 
Rather than get injured and collapse ( which would be how my body would respond to that) he got stronger and set loads of PBs. 

[Luke Owens]

I find Popcorn Party really weird and much harder than the given grade. I think I've only done it once. With so many holds it always seems like you should be able to get weight on your feet, and I always wriggle about trying every which way. I suspect the way is just to power through quickly.

It's just the one move I find tricky, The transitioning from being horizontal underneath, as soon as I'm on the face it's fine. Starting so low makes it feel harder than 7A for me too. I'm sure we're not alone...

[tomtom]

I find Popcorn Party really weird and much harder than the given grade. I think I've only done it once. With so many holds it always seems like you should be able to get weight on your feet, and I always wriggle about trying every which way. I suspect the way is just to power through quickly.

It's just the one move I find tricky, The transitioning from being horizontal underneath, as soon as I'm on the face it's fine. Starting so low makes it feel harder than 7A for me too. I'm sure we're not alone...

I'm with JB - its nails for me (not done it) - moves out from underneath are do-able, but I just get myself tied up in knots on the face.. and jawbreaker at 6C... I'm nowhere near that...

[Luke Owens]

I'm with JB - its nails for me (not done it) - moves out from underneath are do-able, but I just get myself tied up in knots on the face.. and jawbreaker at 6C... I'm nowhere near that...

Agreed, Jawbreaker feels nails to me too as does Fast Cars. I'm quite close on Jawbreaker but always end up ripping a massive flapper every time I try it! Fast Cars is one them problems I actually feel so far away from doing it's unreal!

On the other hand some stuff at Ysgo feels pretty steady. It's a style thing for me, stuff like Mutant Child, Beach Boys Arete SS, Slap Handed are all 6C and I flashed, they're all technical. Where as Fast Cars and Jawbreaker just feel burly.

[tomtom]

:D my problem with Jawbreaker is that I spend all my time trying desperately to use my feet on some microscopic limpet runnel etc.. If only my elbows liked campusing!