[BenF]

Right, since this is the "golden hind" of Magic Wood beta, I've dragged it back to life for my own use...

Looks like I'm probably heading over to Magic Wood later in the summer and am trying to persuade my girlfriend that she'd have a great time hanging out with a bunch of blokes poncing around and shouting abuse at each other.  No actually, she fits in perfectly well with them all (and probably prefers their company to mine) but she is concerned that she may not get much done out there.  Caryl boulders up to about 6b+ in Font but prefers to climb on less friction dependent rock, ideally with positive edges (the antithesis of my prefered style, but there you go).  I know fuck all about Magic Wood so can anyone give me an idea whether Caryl will get much done out there?  Or to put it more simply, is there much for people climbing under 6c who like positive holds?  Obviously I want to sell it to her as a wonder venue covered in positive edges and enough problems under 6c to last a week for Caryl.  For making comparisons that will appeal to Caryl, she has bouldered in Ailfroide, Font, Medonnet, a few other alpine places, all around the UK and Wales

I don't think that made much sense, but if you do understand what I mean and can give me any information, I'd really appreciate it. 

Thanks.

[a dense loner]

if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off

seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.

[BenF]

if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off

   Yeah, that is my fear and exactly what Andy Jennings said last night. 

seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.

An almost perfect response Dense.  I shall pass on your comments and tell her to blame you if she gets shut down big style.  Anything to avoid blaming me to be honest; I'm always getting blamed for taking Caryl to venues full of slopey traverses and hideous mantels.

[Jim]

Has any one got some beta for getting a gite near magic wood?
obviously were not paying mega bucks for the bunkhouse with no kitchen facilites and certainly not camping either
any links or other info greatly appreciated.
Ta

[Adam Lincoln]

Jim, go and see the tourist office in Belinzona. They will ring up local houses/gites that are for rent and arrange it all with the owners. Easier than you trying to ring up and book and having to speak french/german/swis etc ete.  We turned up in October with nowhere to stay, and this is what we did. Got a lovely place for 900 swiss francs between 5 of us for 10 days. Overlooking Belinzona. So 1h hour to magic wood, 30 mins to cresh, 25 mins to Chironico, etc etc

[Norton Sharley]

Right, since this is the "golden hind" of Magic Wood beta, I've dragged it back to life for my own use...

Looks like I'm probably heading over to Magic Wood later in the summer and am trying to persuade my girlfriend that she'd have a great time hanging out with a bunch of blokes poncing around and shouting abuse at each other.  No actually, she fits in perfectly well with them all (and probably prefers their company to mine) but she is concerned that she may not get much done out there.  Caryl boulders up to about 6b+ in Font but prefers to climb on less friction dependent rock, ideally with positive edges (the antithesis of my prefered style, but there you go).  I know fuck all about Magic Wood so can anyone give me an idea whether Caryl will get much done out there?  Or to put it more simply, is there much for people climbing under 6c who like positive holds?  Obviously I want to sell it to her as a wonder venue covered in positive edges and enough problems under 6c to last a week for Caryl.  For making comparisons that will appeal to Caryl, she has bouldered in Ailfroide, Font, Medonnet, a few other alpine places, all around the UK and Wales

I don't think that made much sense, but if you do understand what I mean and can give me any information, I'd really appreciate it. 

Thanks.

if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off

seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.

great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!

MW starts at 7a, nuff said     

[BenF]

great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!

MW starts at 7a, nuff said     

if she boulders up to 6b+ and likes positive edges i think caryl will be burning you off

seriously, it's great for positive stuff at that grade.

Well that clears that up then. 



Anyone else care to add their tuppence worth?  We were planning to book flights today, but not sure now.  I really don't want to take Caryl along to a place where she gets sod all done.

Thanks.

[Monolith]

Ben, I think you are underestimating just how much Caryl will rip it up. If she jumps in at the deep end, I'm sure she'll get some nice surprises at 7a.

I was going to come until Andy informed me I'd need 300 quid. Must remember to tell him to 'get real'.

[webbo]

  Yeah, that is my fear and exactly what Andy Jennings said last night.

would that be the andy jennings ex hull,ex boy scout.

[Monolith]

That's the ticket. Now Sheffield's darling socialite and Hunters Bar resident rent boy. Soon to embark upon a £50,000 climbing trip

[webbo]

so rent boying in sheffield is financially more rewarding than being the scoutmasters sex slave.

[Monolith]

When not eyeing up 'that' barmaid in his local pub, he profits greatly from the local needs of sub-standard male slags.

[webbo]

did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.

[Jim]

never mind that.
I need gite beta please

[BenF]

did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.

Andy was moaning last night that his house did receive a little bit of flood damage, but not much by the sounds of it (certainly not as much as other houses on his road).  However his next door neightbour did catch a coi carp in Andy's garden the other day.  Apparently it had escaped from a pond round the corner and swum into Andy's quagmire garden.  Quite why anything, fish or otherwise would choose to enter Andy's property is beyond me, although maybe it knew Andy was in Sheffield that week.

[dobbin]

never mind that.
I need gite beta please

Although I've never booked a gite in magic, whenever I have been to cresc I have arranged accomodation through interhome.ch. They speak english and seem to have properties throughout swizzle.

[webbo]

did he sell his house or is it one of the many that have floated off down the humber.

Andy was moaning last night that his house did receive a little bit of flood damage, but not much by the sounds of it (certainly not as much as other houses on his road).  However his next door neightbour did catch a coi carp in Andy's garden the other day.  Apparently it had escaped from a pond round the corner and swum into Andy's quagmire garden.  Quite why anything, fish or otherwise would choose to enter Andy's property is beyond me, although maybe it knew Andy was in Sheffield that week.

so the insurance is paying for the road trip.

[Richie Crouch]

I think you and Carol should both get on that plane to Magic! I reckon she would get a lot done and bag plenty of magically overgraded stuff  Plus I will be needing some technical gurus to unlock the beta for all those dynos 

[BenF]

Plus I will be needing some technical gurus to unlock the beta for all those dynos 

I ain't giving you anymore beta.  You owe me so much after our last trip to Wales, you basically just walked round watching what I did and trying to repeat my awesome, silky smooth moves!

Anyway, I'm going to Magic about a month after you so I won't be giving you any beta.  More likely I'll be going round looking to flash all the stuff you struggled on during your visit.

[a dense loner]

great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!

MW starts at 7a, nuff said

then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a   

[BenF]

then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a   

   Quality response. Thank you, very much appreciated.

[Norton Sharley]

great for positive stuff at that grade if you only want to go on about half a dozen decent problems then scratch around in the woods !!!

MW starts at 7a, nuff said

then scratch around in the woods? you scratch around in the woods for every problem, it's not called magic fields.
MW does not start at 7a   

Dense, you seem to be remarkably touchy about this issue ?

[Somebody's Fool]

To be fair to dense, it would be quicker to list the subjects he wasn't touchy about.

Although to be fair to Norton Sharley, dense's climbing is consistently abysmal at Magic Grades.  You can see it in his little face.  He so wants to bag those gimmes, but he's always thwarted by Jim's greasy hand and smug successes.  Or a bout of hives.  Poor fucker. 

[a dense loner]

am not touchy at all about it. what can i say? there are a load of good probs under 7a. i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in

[BenF]

i am not happy that the last 2 statements rhyme but i shall leave them in

Don't worry, we won't think any worse of you.