[Nibile]

dunno if youre interested, or if you already know, but here a nice website for weather forecast. its very accurate.

http://www.meteosvizzera.ch/web/en/weather/detail_forecast/localforecasts.html

you can insert "cresciano" or "chironico" and ever "ausserferrera" (magic wood).

[dobbin]

Good work dude - thats a useful link!

[jfw]

Dear Jim

please post the picture of  dense and dribble doing synchronised diving! 

jfw

[Jim]

As requested

[dobbin]

Its like Brokeback mountain.

Just heard from the Mighty Harris who sounds like he has had a great trip. I'm sure he will tell you all about it when he sees you or perhaps through these pages, but a few bunkhouse bits to tell you : The old bunkhouse is in its last couple of weeks. It will shortly be pulled down as the new one is now open. Price is going up to 25F.

Christina is dating that fat builder dude. She and Danny have split. Danny is leaving Ausserferrera in the next few weeks. The Gasthaus will be needing a new chef and keeper.

[account_inactive]

I thought that Christina had just had a baby with Danny 

What about Peter?  Where does he fit in?

[dobbin]

yeah man, they have a daughter. THink she is with Christina but he gets to play with her. I dont know mate, its none of our business really is it. I feel quite sad for them as they were really nice couple (if a bit mismatched).

Who is peter?

[account_inactive]

Peter is the odd fat guy with the glasses who shakes in the morning

[Andy Harris]

Shiv, Vicky B, Alex (Messenger) and myself just got from our 1st trip to "the wood" and can confirm it lived up to the hype I've been hearing over the past 3 years (particulalry from Dobin & Percy). We had a great trip and whilst the weather was mixed it all fell right with rest days and we got lots done.

Not much if you don't climb at least 7a although if you climb 7b or greater there's much more at your disposal. Did some truly great problems like (excuse the spelling) red roses, heb d'arch, hoenrausch, Piranja, Octopussy, slip slop slap, and a  host of others. Funnily enough have a week in Switzerland with work 21-25/08 so am planning on spending the bank holiday there (anyone about?) and hopefully get on some of the harder stuff.

As for grades we got a hold of the new photocopied topo (pretty poor) which has seen a lot of downgrades from the 1st guide but we still thought most stuff was 0.5 out (eg. 8a is 7c+, 7b+ is 7b). How much of this is due to some really odd illogical starts (eg. Pura Vida) and easier sequences (eg. Piranja goes direct up to the sharp hold rather than out right as most people do) I'm not sure but they really need to address this in any new guides. Also seems like lots of newer stuff to be added and would be good to have some English for all the visiting hoards.

As for the bunk house situation all seems a bit sad and none of our business. We were pretty much the last people to stay here but there is a new deluxe (albeit characterless) version right next to it with showers in each room (£11/night is still a bargain anywhere let alone Switzerland) and a phone No at the door to book a room out.

Can't wait to get back.

Andy

[dave]

some really odd illogical starts (eg. Pura Vida) and easier sequences (eg. Piranja goes direct up to the sharp hold rather than out right as most people do)

fucking tell me about it - as far as pointless eliminates and daft starting positions go magic wood is probably the worse offender of anywhere i've ever been. james bong paint dabs being a case in point!!!

[cofe]

As for grades we got a hold of the new photocopied topo (pretty poor) which has seen a lot of downgrades from the 1st guide but we still thought most stuff was 0.5 out (eg. 8a is 7c+, 7b+ is 7b).

don't reckon its all overgrading though... plus they use the 'easy, medium, hard, very hard' system now, - must have been to the foundry and seen the light.

[al]

Funnily enough have a week in Switzerland with work 21-25/08 so am planning on spending the bank holiday there (anyone about?) and hopefully get on some of the harder stuff

me and 'easy'mcgill will be there for some of the week andy, but also chironico if it stays cool - i'm hopefully going to get on some of the easier stuff

[dobbin]

When Al says 'easy stuff' he means deadly highballs with tiny holds that only he can see. Bastard. 

[Andy Harris]

A bit of Magic Wood info

So the new Generoso is finally open and the old one is officially closed and soon to be demolished. Along with 30 Germans or so attending a wedding up in the hills I was the 1st person to stay here. It's very Swiss, very nuclear bunker and a just a bit characterless. But importantly it's very warm, has great beds and amazing power showers that are perfect for a soak after a hard day in the wood. Leave your sleeping bags at home all you need is a towel.

There are a few phone Nos you can phone on the door to get one of the locals over and book a  room. The cost is CHF27/person/night for sharing up to 4 & if you want a room for 2 it costs CHF37/person/night.

The Generoso is currently looked after by one of the locals and her mum will soon take over the gasthoff / restaurant (some time in Sept). They are looking for a new person to run both of these (CV on a postcard to Ausserferrera).

For those sans car or thinking of travelling alone I tagged the wend on to a works visit to Zurich. It costs about £50 return from the airport – Ausserferrera on a couple of trains & buses and was really easy. Wiss transport is fantastic, and get this. If your bus to the station is running late you can get the driver to call ahead and hold the train until you get there!!! Imagine if you phoned up British rail and said the traffics murder on the M62, can you hold the 9:15 to Paddington please. Hysterical laughter or dumb silence would be the likely response.

Also bumped in to a very smiley Christian Core who almost cruised New Base line in a session. Somewhat impressive, hopefully he got it the next day.

As for me I did get on the "harder stuff" but mostly didn't do it. NE part II evaded me again but Pura Vida is on for the next trip. And how good was cote du sechuan, also longer than any of the routes I did this year so far.

[Nibile]

Also bumped in to a very smiley Christian Core who almost cruised New Base line in a session. Somewhat impressive, hopefully he got it the next day.

it wasnt christian, it was me.

[cofe]

is the edelweiss now shut then? damn shame. that rosti was fine.

[account_inactive]

Will be going to Magic next Wednesday 

Does anyone (AndyH?) have the phone number for the new guesthouse as we will be turning up at 1am

Do they leave the doors open so we could pay in the morning and avoid sleeping in the car?

Cheers

D

[Andy Harris]

Afraid I forgot to jot down the nos. Don't think anyone will be up or best pleased to be got up at that time in sleepy Ausserferrera. If I can get one of the nos from a Swiss friend I'll post it but most of these guys don't speak English so I'm not sure how your German is.

The door is always kept locked so can't imagine Swiss effficiency will allow otherwise. It's also of nuclear bunker construction so it wont be possible to break in.

Think you're better off staying in a roadside motel (maybe Italy is cheaper) or sleeping in the car overnight. Pain is there are pillows and duvets in the bunk house so if you stay in the car you've just got more luggage.

good luck.

[account_inactive]

Thanks Andy, might have to kip in a motel.  Will make a point of taking down the number for other people

D

[Jim]

post it up here when you get back

[JR]

Will be going to Magic next Wednesday 

Does anyone (AndyH?) have the phone number for the new guesthouse as we will be turning up at 1am

Do they leave the doors open so we could pay in the morning and avoid sleeping in the car?

Cheers

D

potentially see you there, might drive over from saas at some point next week

[account_inactive]

Just got back from Magic Wood.  The bouldering is indeed rubbish and I'm not sure why anyone would bother traveling so far.  If however you do get bored and want to go Swiss the Generosa is indeed the shit.  If it wasn't for a return flight I could have happily stayed forever.  The kitchen would put Gordan Ramsey's to shame.

If you need to book, or just want to speak to some nice Swiss people the details are :

Sonja Ruedi (lives next to the Restaurant)
+41 (0) 81 661 11 89

Natel
+41 (0) 79 661 46 82

Trudi Sulser
41 (0) 79 362 62 90

[Dave Flanagan]

Does anyone know how long the bridge has been there? Its a bit of a pity its there. We only found it on the last day...

[zemike]

the bridge was there virtually since the first perception of magic wood (in a bouldery context). untill this year it was closed for the public (cows had a license though). now there seems to be some kind of agreement to let the fence stay open...
so the forrest will become a rugrat paradise...

[al]

Just got back from Magic Wood.  The bouldering is indeed rubbish and I'm not sure why anyone would bother traveling so far

agree, i've never been as underwhelmed about a pile of rocks - nice bakery in the village though