[Tim Heaton]

Not really beta as I don`t think it`s the most tricksy problem in the world to work out but thought this might be the best forum to put it in. I am going to Font in a couple of weeks, nice and sweaty, and was thinking of going to have a look at this problem. However someone told me that it had been chipped and wasn`t 7c anymore but considerably harder than that now. Was wondering if anyone had a definitive answer, probably too hard for me whatever but you`ve got to dream haven`t you.
On another note can anyone recommend the best places in Font that are a bit shady if it gets hot, got a good range of difficulties and most importantly good for picnics and just messing around. Thanks,

Tim

[dave]

yo tim

apparenly the crimps on HB routinely break every now and again making the dyno no harder but keeps them very sharp, really nasty i remember. so try it early before your skin goes bad.

From what i remember its hard - its not about momentum or timing or anything subtle like that, its just about beign able to pull and throw very hard and violently. The only time i've been on it we were pissing dyno's like smatch at sabots and other stuff like that and getting no-where near hale bopp. so don't expect an easy 7c!

good luck.

[a dense loner]

where does this mad grade of 7c come from? if you're under 6ft it's 8a, over 6ft 7c+. sit start adds a grade. it's a massive dyno off 2 small but positive crimps. don't be fooled by klem doin 5 claps on it, it's massive. i know a couple of tall people who can't climb but have done it, if that's any help.
stay away from trois pignions if warm, it gets bakin there

[Carnage]

Dunno about chipped but like Dave says, bits do come off. A mate of mine has tried it on and off each time we are out there and the last time we were there , there was a very sharp point on one of the crimps which makes pulling on it easier (it really digs into ya finger) However, it limits your goes 'cos it rips your skin to f*ck.

He almost got it. Got a picture of him with his fingers right over the top but he didn't hold it. Makes him cry to look at it................. :cry:  

[Tim Heaton]

And I`ll bet that you love showing him that particular photo I thought it was only 7c going from the 7+8 guide plus the fact that some people on the bleau website think that Smatch is 7c    :shock: although some of the other dyno`s I have tried did feel more their grade.

As I said probably too hard for me anyway, plus I don`t want to lose that much skin, for me it`s a precious resource

[dave]

.... plus the fact that some people on the bleau website think that Smatch is 7c    :shock:

Only 11.11%, compared to 33.33% who think its 7a+...

for a good dyno that is approachable try poids de soupirs at petit boiz. If you like massive eliminate dynos off wafer thin sidepulls then look at the direct on future barbares - mentals and pointless!

[Tim Heaton]

That futures barbares looks nails, have you read the comments on that page though about the fact that some people think it`s easier than the non-direct and Hale-Bopp :eek3: not tried either but some people must have mutant strength, I value my fingers highly

[a dense loner]

do u have to log in to see the comments? n how do u get to view the vids? when i click it takes me to a microsoft active x site n offers me 376 things. i wanted to have a crack at futures barbares but the people i was with refused to go back to 95.2 claiming it was too crimpy for font. you know who you are  :evil:

[dave]

you should be able to see the vids if you've got reel playa installed. i don''t log in there (forgot password) adn i can see everyting, although soemtimes their server maxes out.

future bararbarabra looks a bit wacka wacka to be honest denise. hard but wack.

[Tim Heaton]

I don`t log in and I can still see the videos although they do take ages to view, they keep stopping - communicating - playing a bit - stopping so you can`t really watch a problem in one go. Futurs barbarella didn`t look that inspiring but might be good moves, would be much improved by Jane Fonda standing at the top to welcome all successful attempts, that would get me psyched.    

[a dense loner]

but the comments lads, the comments? i don't see any.

[dave]

dunno what you're seeing, but if there are any comments on them it under the section "reactions about this boulder " which is generally abouta  few inches under the photo, after the list of registered repeaters.

[a dense loner]

yeh, wasn't lookin in the comments bit really n the vids do take ages to download. good for info tho

[Dutch Master Killa]

Was in font last week n holds on HB looked pretty sound (for 8a that is :roll: ) to me.  No evidence of any black & decker damage.

[Tim Heaton]

Hope you had a good trip, can you recommend anywhere pleasant for chilling in the shade. Think our trip`s probably going to be mainly picnicing in the woods, learning to slackline and trying a few problems if we can muster up the energy to put down our baguettes and get off our mats. I tried to do a whole circuit last time I was there in the summer, blue one at Isatis, nearly killed me. Kept falling asleep next day on my mat then waking up and being shit scared wondering what I was doing in the middle of a forest on my own.
I was thinking maybe Rocher Canon. Does anyone know much about Reconnaissance/ JA Martin?

[dave]

reconnaissance is OK, seom nice problems, one ace 7a dyno off sidepulls, some low stuff, that wack masterfrog dyno and other good looking stuff. Don't know shady it would be though.

Walked through JAM on a wwet day, its quite scattered. got the impression its on of them suntrap type places. L'etrave looks good.

I'd be tempted to try gorge de houx, cuisiniere, petit bois, etc etc.

[Tim Heaton]

Gorge du Houx looks really nice, never heard of it before. Do they have marked up circuits there too?

[dave]

not sure. i've never been, but its supposed to be alright. think is relativley recent, so might not have circuits.

[a dense loner]

good luck findin gorges de houx. wasted an entire mornin lookin for it. found some yellow n blue circuits but couldn't trace them back anywhere  :?
dave's on the money on them places he said, n he's not often right so get it while you can :wink: could be a good time to go to some areas you've never heard of n report back. boldly goin where no english boulderer has gone b4.
slackline = injury
twirlin them fire things round like they do in thailand = sad fucker

[Tim Heaton]

That doesn`t bode too well, my mate and I tried to find Etrave at JA Martin and had to give up after wandering around in circles for ages so Gorges du Houx might be asking far too much. I think there is at least a yellow circuit there though. The only off the beaten track places that I`ve been to are Calvaire (wet weather cave thing, not really worth it, I`d go look round Font/Paris in the rain rather than go here) and Rocher du General (the night before my last day "I had a dream, a dream that I could climb slabs", so I picked one at random and walked for about 30 mins to this place, needless to say I barely got off the ground). It was a very quiet place on a pretty little hillock although a little overgrown, might be nice to combine it with Diplodocus and the other areas round there.
I will definitely try to persuade my mates to go to some other more obscure places and report back.

My attempts at slacklining aren`t too dangerous as my ability only extends to getting on then falling off without taking a step rinse repeat e.t.c.
I have tried those swirly things on string but kept twatting myself in the face.

[a dense loner]

I have tried those swirly things on string but kept twatting myself in the face.

i hope you were tryna get laid

[Tim Heaton]

I am afraid to say not as I never got very good, I can`t imagine that hitting yourself repeatedly with tennis balls would make many women fall to the floor other than in laughter and pity. I can only excuse myself by saying I didn`t try for that long before seeing the light.