[galpinos]

Not that fingery but good footwork and a decent method will yield results. Great problem.

[bigtuboflard]

Not that fingery but good footwork and a decent method will yield results. Great problem.

Perfect. its on the list.

[lagerstarfish]

so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great.

the traverse under deliverance

just technical, nothing else

pretty hard 7A (it's 7A+), but your shoulders won't feel a thing

[GCW]

Get down to 12st 10 (cues billious laughter from allparts of Sheffield the UK)

 

[bigtuboflard]

so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great.

the traverse under deliverance

just technical, nothing else

pretty hard 7A (it's 7A+), but your shoulders won't feel a thing

forgot about that, pretty lowball too so ticks all the boxes, and closer to home. Another one on the list!

[kelvin]

Learn to appreciate grit I guess - I just don't understand it. *Yep - I think I get now
Loose some more weight - 75kg  (78/79kg lately)
Generally not forget to just enjoy the mountains - scramble, wildcamp etc.

Boulder
Get outside more than once! Bad effort last year. Been twice now! (Feb24)
Indoors V4 (almost yesterday)  *Done - flashed it too
Indoors V5

Trad
Not get sidetracked by falling in love 
Get some more E1s
E2 (ideally Pull My Daisy)
Consolidate VS and HVS

Sport
Onsight 6b A perfect Feb day - on limestone
Actually redpoint something  *start working a 6c on lead tonight

[ghisino]

-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... 

partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)

[Jaspersharpe]

-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... 

partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)

Reve?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[tommytwotone]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

[gme]

-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... 

partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)

Reve?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux  anomaly in my book

[JackAus]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

[bigtuboflard]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!

[ghisino]

-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... 

partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)

Reve?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux  anomaly in my book

reve. went straight on it the 1st day and ticked in a few hours.
The other 8a's i've had a look at either felt a lot harder (cauchemar, but especially elixir).
Chouca felt more doable, at least in proper siege mode, but went on it on my second last day and left it for another trip.
On my last day i was very close (with a lot of wobblers and epic tantrums) on fissure serge which gets 7c+/8a if i understand well. Absolutely brilliant, at least the dyno way.

joe weider gets 7c+ in the last guidebook as "today's climbers are more accustomed to this kind of burly climbing".
Honestly speaking i had seen a pic of that thing that looked ace so one evening on the walk back i went to have a look at it from the ground...
After real-world inspection i think it would be a brilliant route boulder if it was made out of granite, on a stand-alone piece of rock having a belay topout five meters from the ground...

[tommytwotone]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!

Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.


And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...

[SA Chris]

6 - NYD I tipped the scales at 14 st 1.5, my heaviest yet. Aim to be back down to 13.5 st by the time clocks change. - 13st 6 3/4 last week! - stretch goal 13st by time clocks change!
7 - get on some of the 20 or so FAs I have earmarked for development - some good ones done, more to come.
9 - yoga at least once every 2 weeks so far so good.
12 - Get decent desktop and get better at photo and video editing shiny and new, the beast have cometh! Now to make time to use it!

edited cos yellow is unreadable.

[gme]

-Sport: any 8a+/b or a very respectable/feared/historic 8a in venues such as Buoux, Finale, Céuse, FJ... 

partially ticked, as the one i did certainly fits the "historic" bill but is one of the easiest in buoux by today's standards (not that painful, not that fingery once you have downturned shoes and body tension, relatively injury-safe)

Reve?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

If its that Jo wieders thing you need to go do a real one. That was a Buoux  anomaly in my book

reve. went straight on it the 1st day and ticked in a few hours.
The other 8a's i've had a look at either felt a lot harder (cauchemar, but especially elixir).
Chouca felt more doable, at least in proper siege mode, but went on it on my second last day and left it for another trip.
On my last day i was very close (with a lot of wobblers and epic tantrums) on fissure serge which gets 7c+/8a if i understand well. Absolutely brilliant, at least the dyno way.

joe weider gets 7c+ in the last guidebook as "today's climbers are more accustomed to this kind of burly climbing".
Honestly speaking i had seen a pic of that thing that looked ace so one evening on the walk back i went to have a look at it from the ground...
After real-world inspection i think it would be a brilliant route boulder if it was made out of granite, on a stand-alone piece of rock having a belay topout five meters from the ground...

Thank god for that. My comment wasnt about JW grade just the fact its shit and not really Buoux, it was popular back in the day as a 1st 8a.
Reve is great and either easy or desperate i guess depending on how strong you are. Elixir is the best one but the top is  easy or desperate for the opposite reasons i gave for Reve.

[GCW]

1.  Use the board at least once a week.  So far so good......
6. Run another hill marathon or two.  Done the Grizedale Ultra Trail 26, just the Howgills 26, the Three Rings of Shap 100km and the Lakeland 50 to go.
10. Read ten more books from the BBC Big Read top 100  Working my way through Tess of the d'Urbevilles.

[bigtuboflard]

Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...

Used to climb a lot at Caley when I lived in Bradford so probably know that problem already, may have even already done it in my youth (depending when the FA happened of course). family still live nearby now so should go and give it a visit, always liked the style of climbing at Caley, almost hate to admit it given where i now live but prefer it to a lot of the Peak.

Anyway, another one on the list, its going to be a busy summer!

[Plattsy]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!

Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.


And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...

Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.

[JackAus]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!

Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.


And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...

Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.

The large one to start with?? That's the only large footer I remember.

I basically did the same sequence as in this vid... Although I remember not having my feet so high when I went for the top.

@16:55

[sidewinder]

re. Seams Simple Enough did it a few years ago and thought it just about ok for a very soft 7a, the beta making it soft (in my mind) was going to the top dynamically from lower, rather than statically climbing to the top.

Did it again recently and the right hand hold , that was a seam, is now a pretty big crimp/lawaway, I am guessing it has suffered from a breakage/overbrushing, this makes it much easier than it was (~6b?).

[ghisino]

Thank god for that. My comment wasnt about JW grade just the fact its shit and not really Buoux, it was popular back in the day as a 1st 8a.

some 40-something climber from NE france told me that herds of alsace climbers went straight on it back in the day (as routes in alsace are bouldery and so it fitted their style).

i wouldn't say it is a total piece of shit but rather that it's in a very unlucky location.
I've seen very similar "three bolt wonders" that look million times better just because they are in a more prominent position and are considered "classics" of their crag.
(example http://tinyurl.com/l9jaye2 )

[Plattsy]

Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.

How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Thanks both. slabs tend to work well for me and I can actually run to stanage from my house so that is definitely going on the list. Curbar one I'll look up as not familiar with it but soft touch 7a also definitely helps!

Good shout on the Curbar one too - think I'll try and get up there and have a look, appears to be right up my street.


And BTOL, if you ever fancy a trip north Whiskey Galore at Brimham and Creme Egg Eliminate at Caley Crags would fit the bill I assume...

Not sure about the exact line on Seem Simple Enough. I think the line in the Peak Bouldering suggests a large right foothold is in and the BMC guide has the line slightly further left. With the foothold it felt easy for the grade and without I didn't get very far. Still took the 7 of course.

The large one to start with?? That's the only large footer I remember.

I basically did the same sequence as in this vid... Although I remember not having my feet so high when I went for the top.

Yep starting foot hold and if that's the same vid I think it is (can't view at work). I did it the same way with low feet for the top like you say.

I agree with Sidewinder about the grade though I can't comment on the right hand hold as I've no idea what it was like before.

[tommytwotone]

Well that's saved me some time and petrol money anyway!

[Yoof]

First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying them

Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6?

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Now have a beastmaker, recent BUCS score indicates beastliness in on the way, let the training commence.
Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc.
 Remain uninjuredThus far