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Aims for 2014 (Read 87863 times)

lagerstarfish

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#150 Re: Aims for 2014
March 04, 2014, 10:26:44 am
move to a big house in S11

tick

goodbye S2, hello cheap insurance and a mortgage that would make Louis XVI wince

Pebblespanker

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#151 Re: Aims for 2014
March 04, 2014, 10:51:38 am
All very modest but hopefully achieveable

General
lose the blubber and get below 75kg as a minimum by Easter now at 73.7 from 79kg, still some blubber to go
Avoid finger tweaks  :'( just started Maximals cycle on fingerboard... so far so good
Complete a full training cycle without work fcuking it up by working stupid hours away from home as happened repeatedly in 2013 Completed 8 week general strength cycle uninterupted and made good gains
Sport
Find a project 7a in the Angus area
Redpoint 6c+
Onsight 6b+

Trad
E1/2 would be nice as haven't done one since the 80's/90's and my return to climbing in the noughties
Do some easy mountain classics

Bouldering
7A either in Scotland (probably Rock around the Block in Lednock) or the County
Prow at Portlethen
Consolidate at 6C/+
Develop some of the projects in the southern Cairngorms
Torridon trip
Irish trip to visit Glendo etc
More trips to the County and to grit  :wub: one county trip so far
Other
More winter routes and lead my first Grade II/III One Grade 1 solo so far

bigtuboflard

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#152 Re: Aims for 2014
March 09, 2014, 06:33:34 pm
Set myself a target of 7a boulder last year but fell short and only managed one 6c and a handful of 6a, 6b's. Work got in the way as did running (did a lot last year) so just need to get the focus back this year and pick something to aim for.

I'm not great at steep problems requiring lots of shoulder strength (as i've dislocated them far too many times) so something fingery or technical, or both, would be great. any suggestions for the peak? live in Hathersage so no excuses on not being able to lay siege on something once the weather picks up.


How about Satin, or the 7a slab next to Crescent Arete RH?

Seams Simple Enough at Curbar? My first 7A and I prefer steep stuff. Definitely felt easier than 7A though!

Just been up to have a quick look at this before the sun went down, thought I'd have a play about the 5's and a 6 arete next to it as been for a giant sunday dinner at the Barrel Inn at Bretton. As it happens, Seams Simple Enough is indeed very simple indeed, did it about fifth or sixth go once I realised I needed a high right foot. As much as I'd like to lay claim for a YYFY for my first 7a of the year (and in about 20 years) it feels a bit of a hollow victory as it is no way a 7a I don't think, felt more like steady 6b or soft touch 6c at best.

kelvin

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#153 Re: Aims for 2014
March 09, 2014, 07:34:35 pm
I'd decided Seams Simple Enough was gonna be a 7a project too... feeling a little dispirited about it now  :( Had been told it was soft, maybe 6c/+ but 6b? Rubbish.

bigtuboflard

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#154 Re: Aims for 2014
March 09, 2014, 07:41:14 pm
I'd decided Seams Simple Enough was gonna be a 7a project too... feeling a little dispirited about it now  :( Had been told it was soft, maybe 6c/+ but 6b? Rubbish.
Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.

kelvin

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#155 Re: Aims for 2014
March 09, 2014, 09:07:21 pm

Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.

Thanks. Half of the appeal was the easier stuff around it... cheers for that.

Footwork

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#156 Re: Aims for 2014
March 15, 2014, 01:45:39 pm
After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused.

-Rays Roof, so psyched for this :boxing:

-Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)

-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope

-Pass all my law exams!  :smartass:

Managed the bulb in the first week of January :) Though the crafty heel above the head beta makes it feel hard 7c. Anyway, tick there but i'll replace it with ''Boulder another 7c+'' Curious yellow, Ben's Groove sit, to me to you and heaven in your hands are all contenders!

rodma

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#157 Re: Aims for 2014
March 15, 2014, 01:48:30 pm
After 2013's vague aims, this year will be goal focused.

-Rays Roof, so psyched for this :boxing:

-Boulder 7c+ (the bulb most likely)

-Do some real E4's and E5's on a rope

-Pass all my law exams!  :smartass:

Managed the bulb in the first week of January :) Though the crafty heel above the head beta makes it feel hard 7c. Anyway, tick there but i'll replace it with ''Boulder another 7c+'' Curious yellow, Ben's Groove sit, to me to you and heaven in your hands are all contenders!

Where do you heelhook?

Footwork

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#158 Re: Aims for 2014
March 15, 2014, 03:13:51 pm
Once you get the bulb with your right and chip with your left, you place your left heel on a small dish just left and a bit below the pocket on the face. Should be fairly obvious from standing. Then go over with your left to the good hold above the bulb. Hope that helps!

rodma

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#159 Re: Aims for 2014
March 16, 2014, 08:54:42 am
Once you get the bulb with your right and chip with your left, you place your left heel on a small dish just left and a bit below the pocket on the face. Should be fairly obvious from standing. Then go over with your left to the good hold above the bulb. Hope that helps!

Thanks for letting me know. 

I find the crux getting the bulb hold,  probably because I'm short,  but that's also why I find the next bit easy.

I'm glad there isn't a cheat heel way of getting said bulb hold.

fatboySlimfast

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#160 Re: Aims for 2014
March 16, 2014, 02:20:44 pm

Don't be put off, its still a really nice little problem and worth doing but really just a one move pop to the top, and given how relatively little climbing I've done of late and a full Sunday dinner on board it fell far too easily I think for a 7a. I would say though that it suits my style of climbing perfectly, i.e. short, small crimps, vertical wall. The 6a arete to its left is nice enough too.

Thanks. Half of the appeal was the easier stuff around it... cheers for that.
This was harder the first time I did it, now the bottom foothold has eroded to be masssive, the wee foothold on the left has I suspect been chipped out and the top crimp has snapped revealing a much bigger crimp.

bigtuboflard

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#161 Re: Aims for 2014
March 16, 2014, 04:55:35 pm
I actually only used the top crimp for my left to get stabilised and get my right foot high to pop off the right hand crimp/sidepull. Either way as you say FBSF, felt easier that 7a.

Yoof

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#162 Re: Aims for 2014
March 17, 2014, 12:11:20 pm
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Got super close to one the day before yesterday, just keep trying them

Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon
Do well in uni. Could be better to be honest, though I prefer these modules so fingers crossed and pen to notepad, eyes to research papers etc.
 Remain uninjuredThus far

JackAus

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#163 Re: Aims for 2014
April 02, 2014, 10:50:47 am
1. V8 by the end of the year. Brought over from last year...
2. Finish off mega dws project. It's about 7c+. Have come off the last move so many times... Haven't been on it in a month or 2 now... Might have to wait until it gets proper warm again...
3. Put up at least 100 new problems. 23 so far!! Getting there!  :bounce:
4. Do a mini guide for at least one of the new areas I'm developing. Found 2 new areas today! So many more problems! Too many areas to choose from now...
5. V7 in the Grampians.
6. Probably the most important, stop being a fat bastard and get down to 70-75kg.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 10:58:12 am by JackAus »

Yoof

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#164 Re: Aims for 2014
April 23, 2014, 10:00:19 am
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. And some 7b+s!

Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Training with my housemate and we're both psyched silly, so will hopefully see gains soon
Do well in uni. Some improvements, entering revision mode now
 Remain uninjuredThus far

Yoof

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#165 Re: Aims for 2014
April 28, 2014, 07:56:34 pm
First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. And some 7b+s!

Sport
Get a 7c outside- Too old to be bold at Rubicon?
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6? Sort of. Lead one on preplaced gear, felt hard, but the headpoint/ground up if it's safe goal isn't unrealistic

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Not in my student house with the beasmaker, but climbing on small holds has the same effect
Do well in uni. Finally got a good mark back! In revision mode now, and have lots of time for extra reading/ essay planning :)
 Remain uninjuredThus far

These aims are flying by! Actually training really helps!  Another week of revision in which to hop on to some sport/ try more 7cs. Trad may not happen as I'm going to Borneo and Australia this summer and all of next year, so we'll see

mr chaz

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#166 Re: Aims for 2014
April 28, 2014, 10:52:45 pm
Seems a good topic for my first post  :wave:

Boulder - 7B+

Sport - 7c

Trad - try some E5s ground up

Some specific climbs - West Side Story, T crack ( (1 session, got close), Suavito (2 sessions, not very close), Nosferatu, Strapadictomy, Jerrys roof, Ressurection.

Trips - Bouldering in Fontainebleau (Done, and ticked a few nemesis problems from my last trip)  :2thumbsup: and Torridon, sport climbing in Turkey

and look after my tendons

galpinos

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#167 Re: Aims for 2014
April 29, 2014, 08:50:45 am
Most of these are the same as 2013 as I totally underestimated the effect a mini-galpinos would have but I reckon with better organisation and now she’s a little older, it could happen….
.......
Running:
Highlander MM - Top three in Class - Fail - 12th
Saunders MM - Win Class
Sub 19 5k
Sub 40 10k
Sub 90 half
....
Well, I've started well by failing at the first hurdle! I'm blaming illness and my daughter. Managed to get into mid camp in 14th and snuck up to 12th on the second day. So far off the pace it's untrue. From the splits we were competitive over the flats, a little slow on the downs but any leg with a significant climb was the undoing of us. Happy with 12th bearing in mind the level of training we'd manged (nothing) and it's inspired me to put more effort into it before the Saunders.

Muenchener

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#168 Re: Aims for 2014
April 29, 2014, 09:44:10 am
Alpine / Trad trips to any two or more of:
  • Dolomites planned beginning of June; might be too early for good conditions
  • Oberreintal planned July
  • elsewhere in Alps e.g. Ecrins Kaisergebirge planned August
  • UK trad excursion planned July

Frankenjura: as regularly as possible.
Mop up some of 2013's open 6c+ projects in the spring Yes
then get on a 7a. soon
But also work on my overwhelming grade/style gap by getting on some overhanging thuggy 6b+'s we're clear on "get on" ≠ "succeed", right?

Richie Crouch

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#169 Re: Aims for 2014
April 30, 2014, 09:38:41 am
1. Get my swollen knee/leg fixed as it is currently like the limb of an elephant.
2. Get Louis Armstrong done.

1. TICK! Had an arthroscopy on my left knee 9 weeks ago to remove 2 meniscal tears and have gotten back into regular climbing outside in the last 2 weeks.

2. Back on track have had 3 sessions back on Louis already (feared my knee wouldn't be ready to try it but the strengthening and mobility stuff seems to have worked). Had a good second session on it doing it in 2 halves (start to slapping rail every go & doing crux to finish 3 times), so just need to get a bit stronger to hold the crux from the start. Session 3 was shit and I went backwards... Could be a long siege.

fatneck

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#170 Re: Aims for 2014
April 30, 2014, 10:07:14 am
Effort beast!

cha1n

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#171 Re: Aims for 2014
May 05, 2014, 03:49:52 pm
A bit late adding an entry to this one... I've got so many aims both climbing and not that it's scary writing them all down. I've just come out of a 12 year relationship with my gf and am relocating to Sheffield from Bristol for a start!

Climbing
-----------

- Climb at least one 8A bloc
- Tick my 7C blocs from 2013 post (Tetris + Rock Atrocity) and a bunch more (wasn't able to due to being on 8 month rock trip)!
- Climb an 8 on a rope, possibly an 8a+?
- Keep up with regular antagonistic exercises
- Actually do some training to improve finger and body strength
- Get half-crimp strength strong enough to replace full crimp when pulling at limit
- One arm, bodyweight hang off of an edge
- One armer off of an edge
- 1-5-9
- No injuries

Non-Climbing
-----------------

- Sell motorhome
- Buy car/small van
- Move to Sheffield
- Get a job in Sheffield
- When job is secure - buy flat
- Make some good mates
- Finish the last year of my degree at Bradford Uni
- Have a crack at some mountain biking and other types of outdoors exercise that are fun and don't actually feel like exercise
- Cook from scratch at least 2-3 times per week
- Improve snack diet

and breath... I don't even want to look at this list!


a dense loner

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#172 Re: Aims for 2014
May 05, 2014, 06:07:45 pm
Is that it chain? Can't think of anything else?

cha1n

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#173 Re: Aims for 2014
May 05, 2014, 07:02:12 pm
The worst part is that I probably could... That'll do for now though!

Yoof

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#174 Re: Aims for 2014
July 27, 2014, 05:27:23 pm

First time publicly stating my aims, hopefully that means they'll actually get done.

Bouldering:
Put a bit of time into some problems to break out of the 7a+/7b plateau
eatswood Traverse
Finish Dosage in Font (Buthiers)
More 7bs. Getting super close to loads

Sport
Get a 7c outside Hohyboude in Switz. Given 7c+ by some
Get good at onsighting close to limit again

Trad
Basically do more
Onsight some E4s
E5
E6?

Other
Get a beastmaker and do what the name says. Beastmaker has been put away, but rings have replaced it
Do well in uni. Meh.
 Remain uninjuredThus far

 

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