(2) Not warming up effectively - i.e. getting on something too hard too early in the session.
I always take the painful cramp feeling in the forearms that you mention as a sign that I've climbed when I should have rested Luke.From your Power Club posts it looks like you're going to the wall after two or even three straight days of strength training. It's probably unrealistic to expect high performance on powerful routes in those circumstances!
I don't climb anywhere near the same amount as you, but climbing indoors I get the same thing. Afraid I've got no answer as to why though, possibly overgripping or not warming up? I always just assumed it was because I sucked.For me climbing indoors the difficulty is more a factor of the steepness than the given grade.
This has happened to me before, usually as a result of:(1) Training power on the day before; and/or(2) Not warming up effectively - i.e. getting on something too hard too early in the session.Not that I've been climbing well on vertical limestone in the meantime.
I think there is a link between boosting your ancap, and fixing your aerocap. These results are neither conclusive or particularly 'science', but short term results show improvement; this is at the cost of some bouldering power though. Hope this helps TLDREat right (eat some carbs)!Warm up lots!Drop Intensity, and do loads.
Hi Luke,Sounds familiar when you do a lot of strength and power sessions with no aerocap or conditioning before jumping on anaerobic sessions.After months of bouldering, when I return to routes I find a similar pump approach - it almost feels like an injury?So, before you bother with your power endurance sessions, condition your body.1. Yes warm up well2. Less strength work3. loads of antags 4. Cardio work and loads of low level climbing - a really solid base of building your aerobic capacity - capillarisation. Some really low level climbing, avoiding any pump at all - staying on a wall for 15 or so mins (up to 25, but v. boring)...prepare your body for the pump.Also, increase your stretching (once warmed - after a session).As aforementioned - you are powering out your body though. 3 strength sessions and then hitting power endurance...your body will burn out.If you don't want to periodise - drop one or two strength sessions and add an aerocap session and an anaerobic session. Obviously, this depends on your goals though...
As for goals, this is a difficult one. Mainly I just have sport goals and I used to think my weakness was strength related, but I have bouldered up to 7A+ and have redpointed up to 7b+ so I don't think i'm weak for the sport grades i've climbed.
I've been on routes all Summer but they have been no more than say 20 moves long, 10 - 20metres.
It looks like you are not used to doing that volume of forearm work (even if its easy climbing) and after 10 routes you're knackered regardless of grade. How tall is your wall? are you stacking routes(i.e. doing them back to back)? Quote from: Luke Owens on January 03, 2014, 01:19:17 pmAs for goals, this is a difficult one. Mainly I just have sport goals and I used to think my weakness was strength related, but I have bouldered up to 7A+ and have redpointed up to 7b+ so I don't think i'm weak for the sport grades i've climbed.In my experience this is pretty balanced, so you're not strong or weak for the grades, just middle ground. If your main goal is sport, I'd say look at what types of routes you'd be aiming for next summer, and use that as your guide. Quote from: Luke Owens on January 03, 2014, 01:19:17 pmI've been on routes all Summer but they have been no more than say 20 moves long, 10 - 20metres. So if this is what you expect for next summer, then I'd probably go with an 8 week session of mainly aerocap. Workouts like this maybe:Day 1 restDay 2 max hangs in AM or at lunch, then 30 min Aerocap in eveningDay 3 Aerocap starting at 30 and building up each week to 60+by the end of 8 weeksDay 4 Wall session / ancap(on the long end of it though 2-4min sets with good rest) Day 5 Aerocap 30-45minDay 6-7 Weekend boulder outside have fun Then do a 4 week AnCap cycle, then back to Aerocap for another 8 week, then ancap before summer. My $.02
Routes outdoors are very rarely as continually intense as the same grade of route indoors.Most routes outdoors will have a reasonable hold somewhere that you can get something back on. However indoors if you have a panel thats the same steepness all the way up, with smallish holds fairly well spaced then it's going to be a proper pumper!Time to hit the 4x4's
Yes
4x4 aka roped laps aka intervals on a rope.
So what's likely to be the best way forward? Stick to the vertical for now, on the basis that a capillary is a capillary and it doesn't matter how it got there?
As long as the desired effect is being achieved in the forearm does it matter how the aerocap is done? I currently do mine on a fingerboard with my feet on a chair. Feels the same in the forearms as traversing in the climbing wall but in reality it's not similar at all.Also, is it possible to do TOO much aerocap training?
On the AnCap cycle would you drop the Aerocap completely or just to one session a week? How many AnCap sessions a week then, 2/3?