UKBouldering.com

Turbulence (Read 3298 times)

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
Turbulence
June 14, 2004, 10:16:31 am
Not that I'll be able to try it again until access is resolved, but theoretically speaking  :wink:  does it go like this:

start as for Blood sugar sex magic and gain crack straight above, plant feet out to the left on ramp line, back foot to starting hand jug, get established both hands in the crack and then what?

I could get stood in the top of the crack undercutting furiously and not too sure where to go next, obvious sloping holds on the lip or pocket things in the crease?

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#1 Turbulence
June 14, 2004, 07:26:06 pm
Here's my beta:

Start matched on jug, right heel on. Left hand into fingerlock at the very bottom of the crack, crack straight to pocket on lip in RH. LH to undercut at top of crack (painful), RH slap to slopey lip. Double foot jam in the crack, LH into good mono, slap RH up to beaut sloper, foot on lip and cruise to victory.

Now some people do go to the lip your way but it is well burly and you end up the wrong way round really, I'd advise against it! Also some gents go straight through to LH mono from RH in pocket on lip using an egyptian, OK if you're a lank.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2 Turbulence
June 16, 2004, 06:54:11 pm
you only need to get your left hand in the start of the crack then bust it out with right to pocket thing by lip, right egyptian and left hand into mono, cut loose, get left heel by yer head, slap sloper bobs yer uncle

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#3 Turbulence
August 04, 2004, 03:35:53 pm
Doyle, you are my hero.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#4 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 09:40:49 am
he's that strong even his interweb name has changed. mild-mannered chris doyle by day has now become doylo thanks to a freak accident in a phone booth

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9944
  • Karma: +561/-9
#5 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 09:56:29 am
Bit of a Jennifer Lopez / Jeylo ting innit :wink:

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#6 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 09:57:39 am
he's missed the 'i' out though, shouldn't it be 'doylio'

tut tut.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#7 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 06:01:17 pm
its more of a liberty/liberty x scenario than the j-lo thing.

dave

  • Guest
#8 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 06:06:21 pm
why, is there another chris doyle from the 70s bringing legal action against you??

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#9 Turbulence
August 05, 2004, 06:24:04 pm
nah seriously its all part of my masterplan to become trendy enough to join the north wales 'inner circle'.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal