[SA Chris]

http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/peak-bouldering/

Is this news to anyone else? Surprises me, considering a superb guide is already available.

Actually it doesn't surprise me.

[tc]

Areas Included

Moorland Gritstone
Wimberry, Tintwistle Knarr, Black Tor, Hobson Moor Quarry, New Mills Torrs, The Grinah Stones, Derwent, The Wool Packs

Inevitable I suppose but a shame nonetheless. Maybe Rockfax do this just to wind people up?

[SA Chris]

What's the significance? I'm a bit out of touch; is it one of those spots that was agreed to never write up, and just leave for self exploration?

[tc]

That's the way I understood it. I actually did a load of stuff up there years ago, when dinosaurs roamed the moors, wrote some of it up and then deleted the info after chatting to a few people. Seems there has been a re-think.

[Grubes]

I was not sure either but this is interesting reading:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7075.0

There has been a long tradition of leaving the Grinah stones unrecorded. I strongly believe this should continue.
At present it gives a totally unique experience on grit. There is a wealth of good bouldering with absolutely no guide. For once in your life you are really faced with the reality of the question, 'Why do I climb?' For most of us I think we like to think its not just to get a tick in the book or to eran big numbers. However at Grinah none of these are available and you'll soon discover whether you can remain motivated. Without names, grades or even photos you are reduced entirely to reading the rock and finding your own challenges.

[tc]

Aye, well, that's that fucked then. I'm just glad I now live miles away and don't have to watch the place get trashed.

[SA Chris]

I thought as much

Undocumented quality bouldering in a remote corner of the peak is perhaps a more precious thing than a complete historical record.

(from bonjoy in the above thread, can't do clever links)

Is pretty fucked too.

As the main issue, is there really space in the market for another guide? (that old can of worms reopened).

[Doylo]

I thought as much

Undocumented quality bouldering in a remote corner of the peak is perhaps a more precious thing than a complete historical record.

(from bonjoy in the above thread, can't do clever links)

Is pretty fucked too.

As the main issue, is there really space in the market for another guide? (that old can of worms reopened).

About as much space as there is for a new select guide to North Wales.

[Stubbs]

Ah now I get it

The book will cover all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District in one book, with many more low-grade problems than featured elsewhere

At least they know their market!

[SA Chris]

About as much space as there is for a new select guide to North Wales.

Well quite. Blatant honeypotting business strategy.

[Duma]

"The book will present grades in both ‘V’ grades and Font grades, and UK technical grades for easier problems which many British rock climbers are often more familiar with."

 
 
 

[tommytwotone]

Note with interest Eagle Tor is in there too - not going to do much to change the access situation there either.

[Stubbs]

I thought I remembered reading something in the other thread:

... I remember seeing Adrian Berry script checking for the new Peak bouldering guide at Raven Tor quite openly walking around with a copy of the Vertebrate guide in his hands.

When quizzed he admitted what he was doing and answered "I want to make sure there aren't any mistakes"

Truly beggars belief.

[Durbs]

*sigh*
I used to be a fan of Rockfax, but this, coming after the N Wales debacle is just crazy.

[Johnny Brown]

I have been in email contact with Adrian (I have provided some pics) and I was assured that they aren't covering any problems at Grinah, just location and access. With Eagle tor they have asked, and I think followed, the advice of the local BMC access team.

I'm not at all sure it is comparable with the NW guide situation, otherwise I wouldn't have sent them any shots. As Stubbs has said, I think they are aiming at a lower grade market, and I suspect the VG guide will remain the better choice for most UKB readers.

[shark]

"The book will present grades in both ‘V’ grades and Font grades, and UK technical grades for easier problems which many British rock climbers are often more familiar with."

 
 
 

We've waited 10 years but at last Dave's grading system goes mainstream   

yeah yeah muthafuckers, you all knew it was coming, yet you all aksd for it, and NOW ITS COMING IN YOUR EARS:

The Unified Grade Scale:

4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, V2, V3, V4, V5, 7a, 7a+, 7b, 7b+, 7c, 7c+, 8a, 8a+, 8b, 8b+, 8c.......

The triple-fuck of grading systems
steven hawking would be prowd.

[Hoseyb]

Dave is obviously an unsung genius..
I use something similar when describing distance on climbs...

"Its 10 m of 7" crack, the first few feet are easy going, and after that you're fighting for every mm"

[SA Chris]

I have been in email contact with Adrian (I have provided some pics)

Hope you got good money for that soul of yours

[Bonjoy]

I think they are covering The Woolpacks in detail though. I dare say the place will remain very rarely visited though. Firstly because it's on top of the biggest hill in the Peak and secondly because it's very very scrittly i.e. the few who are motivated by the info in the guide are unlikely to make a secnd visit (for the bouldering anyway). There's way better rock quality and bouldering on Kinder than the Woolpacks.
The fact remains, whatever the Grinah coverage, it ain't going to get trashed any time soon. Boulderers, with few exceptions are not motivated to walk that far, even for classics.

[Offwidth]

I'm more worried about the Woolpacks than the Grinah Stones as the rock surface is often very delicate (hence the scrittlyness) and it's in full view of the hordes to complain about damage, chalk etc. Even undocumented, some stuff is starting to look a mess. I've made it clear my view is they should treat both with overview coverage as is done in OtM and for the same reasons (the access benefits of preservation of a few wild bouldering areas).

No one can sensibly complain about the timing cf NW as the book has been pretty obviously a work in progress for a year at least. It's also a fairly direct update of their earlier guide which notably had good coverage on lower grade stuff. If anything the VG bouldering guide has undercut Rockfax a little as it has expanded and better graded the best and most popular lower grade stuff that's out there.

Dave's grade system needs modifying as it has an ugly overlap: 6a should be removed being equivalent to V2/V3, and it could do with a 4b and 4a.

[Johnny Brown]

I think documenting the Woolpacks is plain daft - the rock just isn't good enough and I doubt very much if traffic will improve things.

With Grinah, it's all about maintaining the character of exploration. As BJ says, the walk is long enough to keep it quiet, but preventing documentation could easily end up like a sword fight with the hydra. Well worth pushing it though, it's been good to see other folk supporting it.

[Bonjoy]

Although I don't buy the idea that Grinah will get trashed by being documented, as it's remote and has very good rock quality, I do on balance agree with the other arguments to keep it uncharted.

[Johnny Brown]

Agreed. It's all about a different experience for me, I just wish it was available at more crags.

[tomtom]

Erm - you could always just not take or read the guide book before going?

[Johnny Brown]

Oh yeah, and not clip the bolts on sport routes too I suppose?