[shark]

Shark, one thing I was curious about - you asked him about some of his most memorable days and he said there were a few, then began by describing doing that Austrian traverse in 30min. You then switched topic - did John at any point mention his other highlights?

I'll email and ask him (along with anything else anyone want asking).

From: Simon
Sent: 01 January 2014 23:17
To: JOHN GASKINS
Subject: RE: Photos

Hi John,

Video here:   Password: foothold . Bit shorter than the other one! – let me know if you are happy for us to release this     

Questions:

When I asked you about some of your most memorable days you talked about doing the traverse in Austria but we switched topic and I think you were going to mention a couple of other memorable days / ascents. If so what were they ?

There is some confusion about how you climbed Momement of Clarity. I actually think in the above you cleared that  up in passing but to be clear you climbed the arete on the left yes ? also any other beta would be useful to pass on.

Similarly the footage of you on VNB (pre-hold breakage) would be welcome or failing that some beta on the sequence would be good. Also how did you rig up the self belay when you redpointed it ?

Would yopu be up for visiting Shadowplay to see if the original holds are still there with Dan Varian and if they are go through the sequence or what you remember of it and other problems where there is some confusion. Dan’s really keen to repeat your problems and recently did Isla (via a taller pertsons way) Video here:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/  Dan thinks Adam Hocking might be up for getting film of this – I think Hocking has been in touch about filming your story so that could be part of it ? If not and I’ve got the wrong end of the stick I could come up again

Cheers

Simon

From: John Gaskins
Sent: 04 February 2014 21:39
To: Simon
Subject: RE: Photos


Hi Simon

Other memorable days/ascents:
Nearly on sighting Armstrong 8c at Waldeck in the Frankenjura in 2003
Climbing Staminaband 4 times, Ben’s Roof twice and Blueband twice all one after another in early 2003
The day I climbed the sit start to Walk Away
Other things that still stand out for varying reasons would be Left Wall at Brimham, Interrogation at Haytor, Screaming Dream at Froggatt and slightly more recently (i.e. about 5 years ago) the Chocolate Girl into Gigantic link in Wilton 1

Moment of Clarity, yes I climbed it on the left as you look at it. Sequence wise I can’t remember much.

Violent New Breed, the self belay was effectively using the first bolt as a belayer, by clipping a length of rope to it there is then sufficient rope to reach the top but not enough to hit the ground. Sequence, now this is pretty much ingrained in my memory even now (but I guess after the time I spent on it it would be). Skipping the moves on the easy lower wall you get a good edge to the right of the first bolt with your right, left hand into the obvious undercut, outside edge of your right foot onto an obvious good edge and reach with your right hand to the shallow 2 finger pocket between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, crimp that and the ripple next to it. Left foot on a sloping edge just below and left of your left hand then right foot up to the good edge you had your right hand on earlier (to the right of the 1st bolt). Left toe hook next to your left hand and move your left hand to the small mouth hold by the 3rd bolt. Right hand to a pinchy layaway edge below and right of the 3rd bolt. Right foot onto an obvious small left facing edge in the roof then left hand to the very obvious good edge level with the jug followed by right hand to the jug then easy moves to the top. It took me days to work the detail of the sequence out.
Happy to go with Dan to see if the original holds are still on Shadowplay, just a matter of when.

Thanks
John

[Dave Flanagan]

Shark did you ask John about the footage of Darkness Before The Dawn, would be great to see that, it's an amazing line, and in Irish terms was a very significant ascent?

[shark]

Shark did you ask John about the footage of Darkness Before The Dawn, would be great to see that, it's an amazing line, and in Irish terms was a very significant ascent?

Sorry I didn't pick up on this or that you asked me to ask him. What's in the email above is all I asked him. No new footage has emerged as yet for any ascent. The person who has/had the film for a near redpoint of VNB (pre hold breakage) hasn't been able to find it so far either.

[Dave Flanagan]

No worries. Good work on the interview.

[Doylo]

Happy to go with Dan to see if the original holds are still on Shadowplay, just a matter of when.

Thanks
John

[/quote]

Would love to be a fly on the wall if this happens *awkward*