[Fj]

Whats the deal?
Do you have to top it out, or is it ok to drop off at the rounded break?
Whats peoples thoughts on the grade too?
If you can drop off at the break I think its very soft touch for V9 if you're tall.
any thoughts?

[a dense loner]

drop off at break, it's b9 not v9 (what this means in english is it's not font 7c  :? ha). aren't they all easy for the tall? :twisted:
guide book is a fair few years old n some probs weren't as popular/done as much, when i say not as popular i mean not clean etc. i think thats where a couple of anomalies come from ie skinless wonder.

[Bonjoy]

What do you reckon for Skinless? Reachy 7a/V6? Having said that it's similar to, but easier than Pebble Wall 6c+/V5 at Almscliffe, but then that's a sandbag... :roll:

[fatboySlimfast]

Top out you gutless ponces :D
not as hard as you think but makes you concentrate a bit harder
V7>< giv or take a bit for leroy
skinless hmmm  found desp cos im shorty

[fatboySlimfast]

having posted that i have just realised i climbed off to the right
its the thing right again that i topped out on  but i have to say you should at least be on the top break before jumping

the mantle thing on the buttress to the right is a good high ball with mats
used to get E4 5C

[Johnny Brown]

absolutely no ticks unless you top out direct. Learn to mantel!! I don't know, you people make me sick :roll:

[Dolly]

Don't need to topout for the tick - font 7b for the hard bit I reckon
Topping out is so 90s

[irish si]

im with johnny on this one, if you cant do the top out you dont get the tick.

[grimer]

the mantle thing on the buttress to the right is a good high ball with mats
used to get E4 5C

but isn't the crux of this one the grim bulgy wall above the mantel ledge.

[fatboySlimfast]

but isn't the crux of this one the grim bulgy wall above the mantel ledge.

eh? Youve lost me?
im on about the seperate butress from the cowperstone, if u face leroy its off to your right a few meteres away. Thought the crux was getting on to the first mantle not the top

[grimer]

As far as i remember it's a roundy mantel onto the lej, then one of those scratty rounded disappearing off into deathly infinity exits on the wall above that. The first mantel would hardly get E4.

[Johnny Brown]

Yeh, technical crux at bottom, mantel grimness as psychological crux.

[fatboySlimfast]

yeah thts the job, nice little number aint it

[fatboySlimfast]

im with johnny on this one, if you cant do the top out you dont get the tick.

illl be down at cragx waiting for you all then to emerge at the top :wink:

[irish si]

ha ha!! :D

[Jim]

Tries this with worm t'other day and we both couldn't span between the undercut and the good left hand hold (even when pushed on). Had a few tries crimping the left intermediate and throwing for the good right hand hold sloper break thing but couldn't seem to generate enough upward momentum to make the height.
How have people done this who have less than a big reach (ie can't span between undercut and good left hold)?

[BenF]

No help for you I'm afraid Jim (although I'm interested in any beta thats forthcoming), but have realised that I met you at Stanage on Saturday.  I was with Andy Jennings and we met up with you guys by Hampers Hang before moving onto that sloper traverse thing til I got off and you moved on to Leroy.  I was the bloke failing to do that easyish up problem until I used the crimp on the edge of the sloper if that makes any sense. 

Anyway, nice to meet you an' all that. 

Over and out.

[Andy B]

I used the crimp with my left to reach high into the break with my right, then bumped my left into the decent hold between. Unfortunately I then found the top out to be the crux. But that's probably more to do with my weaknesses.

[Andy B]

It's worth climbing round from the top right, to clean off the flake/ crack and slopers in advance, as it was extremely scrittley when I did it, and feels high and precarious, and I tended to fall backwards when my hands slid, with my feet still tucked under.

[Jim]

did you go static up from the left crimp with your right andy? if so you have rat hands - even glossop fingers couldn't manage that (although it wasn't exactly good conditions).
I had a quick look at the top out from getting pushed on, didn't seem too bad (famous last words) although as I said at the time I needed to go from the bottom to be psyched to do it, didn't fancy doing it and not getting the tick

nice to have met you benf

[Andy B]

did you go static up from the left crimp with your right andy? if so you have rat hands
...
I had a quick look at the top out from getting pushed on, didn't seem too bad (famous last words) although as I said at the time I needed to go from the bottom to be psyched to do it, didn't fancy doing it and not getting the tick

Yes I went static. I assume "rat hands" is a Manchester term for being strong?

I gave the top a good clean when I did it, but that was last summer, so perhaps someone has cleaned it more recently, or perhaps you're less of a wimp than me on scrittle.

[Jim]

Just to make sure were on about the same hold, the crozzley intermediate just below the good left hand hold, you crimped the edge of this and stood up staticaly to get the good right hand sloping break?
Monster

[Johnny Brown]

Doing the reach on this one is all about positioning your feet. Get it right and you can go again with left to the goodish bit, then match. I have to release the undercut a bit too, ie just dragging the edge of it with finger in the mono.

[Jim]

sorry johnny, tried this as well, we all don't have your wing span.
Got pushed on and was a good inch off the undercut when had left hand hold

[Johnny Brown]

I can't get it with my hand in the good bit of the undercut. Its all about the feet, trust me. Tom Briggs was there last time and no doubt you would say he didn't have the required wingspan either.