Thanks Matt,I'd say that my trunk rotation is probably quite poor compared to my general flexibility. My shoulders are getting stronger but my right shoulder has a history of weakness and instability after a dislocation (and immediate relocation) several years ago that was then mis-diagnosed as a rotator cuff injury. Investigative surgery was inconclusive and I then had months of physio to re-strengthen and stabilise the shoulder. I've found climbing has helped with the strength but I still run with a base level of muscle tension and discomfort from my right shoulder.I mention the above as I have also noticed in massaging my shoulder/arm above the elbow today that this is triggering a tingling sensation down to my hand (I've had this before due to my shoulder) and believe it is when I've pushed across a nerve.Depending on any additional thoughts I think I'll make an appointment to see the physio at our local wall.Thanks again!Beccie
Hi guys,I've had an elbow problem now for over a year on my right arm. There's no real specific area of pain, but it hurts deep inside the elbow when locking off/doing pullups or compression moves. Also I get a really sharp pain right at the base of the tricep if I press outwards with totally a totally bent arm (like a pushup from lying down). Throwing things seems to make it worse aswell.Everyone seems to think its an ulnar nerve thing, and I've tried eccentrics, ulnar flossing, rest, not rest etc but had no really significant improvements since I did it (brought on after a heavy day of bouldering). Seen about 5 or 6 physios aswell, all to no avail. Any ideas what I've got, or any last ditch efforts I can make to fix it?Cheers,Dave
Hi guys,I'm having some real wrist problems. I'm getting a really sharp pain on the little finger side of my wrist. It comes on when there's any twisting force on my wrist (undercuts and sidepulls you pull up against are bad). But also when I'm pushing against my fingers, like washing my face or hair. Weirdly, it doesn't hurt on slopers. Holding a heavy saucepan or using a screwdriver aren't ideal either.I assumed it was a TFCC injury, but I can more or less push down in a press up position pain-free. I've tried taping it, resting it, using it - all seem to work sometimes but not at others. Any idea what's going on? Cheers!
Hi,I've been having some trouble with my left forearm for around 8 weeks now roughly. I'm vaguely pinpointing it to 3 sessions I had in quick succession on a problem and route with left hand undercut/side pull hold and a weird guppy hold (the keel hold on the keel at Almscliffe).It's tender to touch about half way along the forearm on the anterior/palmar surface of the ulnar. Its not tender when pressed on the other side which makes me think it's what's being compressed between the bone and my finger causing the pain, rather than the bone itself. The tender area is probably 1-2 inches long.When climbing, the pain is more like a dull throbbing and isn't obviously exacerbated by any particular orientation, it's probably a bit worse on undercutty side pulls but only marginally. After having a few days off it eases and I have a session where it's not too bad but then it just comes back. To be honest I was expecting it to sort itself out with a few enforced 4-5 day rests but it hasn't improved whatsoever. I've just had another few days off and think I'll just do some easy climbing trying not to aggravate it.I expect that in this case more rest might actually be the solution but I'm really not sure what's going on and wondered if you had any idea what it sounded like from my crude history?Thanks
Hello, I injured what I think is the A2 pulley in my left ring finger. I have been icing it, using a finger roller thing and climbing only on stuff that doesnt aggravate it. Whilst it doesn't hurt very much at all, even becoming unnoticable much of the time. As soon as a hold digs into the area it is extremely painful. Also the morning after climbing it is also very sore when pulling with the finger. Once I am warmed up it is also fine to climb on stuff that doesn't dig into it. What else can I do to heal the finger? It has been a couple of months now, and whilst the injury isn't putting holding me back really, it is still painful and worrying the days after. It doesn't seem to be getting any better or worse, just stalling.thanks
Hi MattFew finger issues all on the right hand:First up, the spot circled is very tender when pressed, Any idea what this is? I've been avoiding crimping and can climb open-hand ok and it doesn't appear to harming it any further, I assume the answer to this is keep avoiding crimping?Next up, bit of a trauma injury, moved my finger sideways while it was still deep in a pocket and now have lots of swelling around the PIP, two weeks on I can just about make a fist. Been icing it and climbing at a reduced level with it heavily taped so it can't be bent. Still quite tender around the joint though even 2 weeks on.Last up but most long standing my finger nail (forefinger) is growing distorted, any ideas what could be causing this?CheersIan
Hi, I have a hand injury sustained whilst pulling on a pocket with my hand twisted slightly. I heard something crack in my wrist/hand - no particular pain straight away but I stopped climbing and iced it.Following this the next day I am able to do most movements pain free although clenching a fist is painful through the centre of my palm and I get an occasional pain that shoots up to my elbow when gripping things - using my middle 2 fingers especially. There is also some tightness felt if I try and stretch my fingers back. There is no swelling at all and my hand generally just feels a bit weak, Any advice on what to do would be much appreciated, I don't feel its worthy of a doctors visit as I have nearly full range of movement, and it seems to only be aggravate by gripping in a certain way -although I know I definitely can't climb or pull with it, Thanks
Hi, I don't know whether the clinic is still going
Hi, I don't know whether the clinic is still going, or whether this is the sort of thing you deal with but just in case...I injured my ring finger from crimping on a small hold about a year ago. No popping noise, just symptoms of a swollen PIP joint, pain when I pressed on my A2 pulley and pain when I fully bend the finger and forcing the fingertip to touch base. I have similar injuries on different fingers that have completely recovery. Anyway, the injury wasn't severe enough to impact my climbing too much and I have been consistently climbing "hard" and improving since. Every 4 months or so, when I think it's fully recovered, I end up pushing it too much and "re-injuring" it (making it swell again and become slightly agitated, but never nearly bad as the original incident), when this happens I just take it easy for a week or so and continue as normal. However, two weeks ago I have noticed that my finger now makes a very faint noise whenever I close it, which sounds very similar to slowly tearing a piece of paper. I can still pull hard and there is effectively no PIP swelling and little pain when I massage the A2 pulley, but I am concerned that the long term, reoccurring, injury has evolved into a new uglier and more serious injury.If it doesn't appear to improve in the next few weeks I may go and see someone about it, but until then if anyone could shine some light on the injury, it would be highly appreciated. TL;DR my long term finger injury has started making noises and I'm scared. thanks.
Hey, wouldn't mind your opinion... After I last climbed 10 days ago my shoulder felt terrible after climbing, bit of research makes me think it's a rotator cuff injury, it's been painful ever since with rest, visited the gp and he agreed likely a rotator cuff injury/micro tear based on him getting me to do a few movements and saying my shoulder still has a lot of strength in it so can't be a big tear so should heal with rest and pain killers, does that sound accurate? Got a physio appointment through work for free but earliest I could get is in 2 weeks time...
Quote from: 36chambers on October 12, 2015, 03:55:15 pmHi, I don't know whether the clinic is still going, or whether this is the sort of thing you deal with but just in case...I injured my ring finger from crimping on a small hold about a year ago. No popping noise, just symptoms of a swollen PIP joint, pain when I pressed on my A2 pulley and pain when I fully bend the finger and forcing the fingertip to touch base. I have similar injuries on different fingers that have completely recovery. Anyway, the injury wasn't severe enough to impact my climbing too much and I have been consistently climbing "hard" and improving since. Every 4 months or so, when I think it's fully recovered, I end up pushing it too much and "re-injuring" it (making it swell again and become slightly agitated, but never nearly bad as the original incident), when this happens I just take it easy for a week or so and continue as normal. However, two weeks ago I have noticed that my finger now makes a very faint noise whenever I close it, which sounds very similar to slowly tearing a piece of paper. I can still pull hard and there is effectively no PIP swelling and little pain when I massage the A2 pulley, but I am concerned that the long term, reoccurring, injury has evolved into a new uglier and more serious injury.If it doesn't appear to improve in the next few weeks I may go and see someone about it, but until then if anyone could shine some light on the injury, it would be highly appreciated. TL;DR my long term finger injury has started making noises and I'm scared. thanks.Hi sorry about the delayed response. This unfortunately is the last response as this thread has been quite. We may start again next summer. To begin, don't alarm yourself about your injury. It sounds like the noise could be coming from the joint rather than the tendon. If the joint is not swollen then that is a good sign. If you are having intense periods of climbing then it may be that you have just overloaded the joint and it is grumbling. Certainly back off the intensity.I would suggest you get a physiotherapy opinion as it has been going on for a prolonged period and they may be able to give you some specific exercises and perhaps look at your technique.RegardsMatt