Great idea, thanks guys!I have minor golfers elbow on my right elbow. Can't pinpoint a defining moment which caused it but it's definitely from climbing.I have had it for a few months, but it's never been painful enough to stop me climbing and I very rarely feel pain while climbing unless I do a really deep lock off or pull up with that arm. It only seems to ache/hurt afterwards when I've warmed down. More niggling pain than anything.I've tried all the usual things for shifting it, stretching, icing, weights etc. but it always seems to linger. I've now give up on all of the above due to no results, probably not the best idea.Do you recommend I just need to perserve with the stretching etc or something else? Also any advice on preventing reoccurance would be great.Many thanks,
I've damaged the pulley tendon (I believe) on my right hand ring finger and it just wonít heal! I did it whilst climbing, my foot popped off whilst I was moving my left hand and all my weight went through the crimp I was holding with my right hand. I heard like a tearing/cracking sound. I stopped climbing for 2 weeks; during that time I was using a stiff stress ball to exercise the finger and it felt ok to grip things. I tried to go back to climbing, but as soon as I tried to put weight through it I had a lot of pain.I stopped again for 3 weeks and went back to using the stress ball and massaging and stretching my finger. Though when I went back this time I still had pain when I was weighting my hand with my body weight, even though Iíd tapped the finger up.I once again stopped and this time I went and saw my doctor. He told me to take it easy on it for a couple of months, but donít stop using it completely. I therefore completely stopped climbing for 2 months, but still worked out in the gym with weights which didnít hurt.I went back to climbing last week and itís still not right, I can hold jugs and slopers with it but it doesnít feel quite right. Itís nowhere near as painful, but there is no way I could crimp on it, or would want to put my full body weight through it.The finger doesnít swell and Iíve not noticed any bruising. It doesnít hurt normally, only when I massage it. Itís just as a soon as I try to put weight through it.Should I stop again? What other things can I do to help it heal? Is it possible to permanently damage the finger?
possibly but prevention is better than cure.As someone who is approaching 30 I'm increasingly aware I'm not a kid anymore and although there are plenty of weekly training programmes on how to get strong there is little on what the average climbing should be doing on a weekly basis to prevent climbing injury?General advice on antagonistic training, stretches, warm up and early identification of injuries (rotor cuff, tennis elbow, finger injuries etc) that you could fit into and around a training programme would be very helpful, thank you.
An elbow question...A number of times in the last few months, when lowering off a route and having a shake out, I've had a problem in my right elbow. It seems that a tendon (I think) has a little spasm which trys to make my arm close/contract. You can see the part spasming as it rises out of the joint a bit. Also, it's not very painful unless you try to straighten your arm whilst it's going on. Each time it's happend after I've done a route close to my limit, then had a decent break and then done an easier route afterwards as a kind of cool down (still fairly close to my limit, damn Malham's 7a warm ups/cool downs).It has also happened when really pulling/locking off on some undercuts. Was planning to try and get to a physio soon, just waiting for my work's health plan to say they can cover it. But might as well see if it's a known kind of problem first.Thanks.
My right forearm feels constantly tired even after a couple of days of no climbing. My left arm is fine,when i've felt tired like this before its always been ok the next day. There's no pain but i can feel it even doing day to day things like picking things up or even typing. Just over a week ago i was hammering off some old rusty bolts and my forearm really felt it afterwards, i've been trying pretty hard on the climbing front since so it's possible i suffered some micro trauma and haven't let it heal (my theory anyway)? Any ideas/advice?
HiI have had long-standing (8+ years) problems with my Ďelbowsí both when I climb and surf, especially if I try to do a number of days-on. There is no particular point of pain, it can be diffuse throughout the bicep, tricep, elbow joint and top of the forearm. I'm fairly sure it isnít golfers or tennis elbow (although I have tried the exercises for these for fairly long periods just in case).I have been to see a couple of physios who have struggled to diagnose the problem as itís not usually present unless I have been climbing or surfing for a couple of days.I also get a lot of stiffness/soreness in my shoulders (I believe in the rotator cuff area) when sitting at a desk and whilst running. I guess this may be the root of the problem. I have followed a few theraband routines for a reasonable length of time but although these seem to help a little, they donít seem to help long-term.It doesnít seem to matter if I take time out from these activities or if I slowly build up. I am 30 years old and it would be nice to be able to climb or surf for more than a day without pain! I have resorted to popping ibuprofen on surf trips which seems to help up to a point but obviously isnít a good long-term solution.Many thanks for any help in advance.ChrisP.S. Sorry for the Dear Deidre type post!
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