Boom!I've injured what feels like the longhead of bicep tendon in my shoulder: a dull ache at the front of the shoulder near where where the bicep joins. I did it on a high gaston move (annoyingly on my first proper route following a six month layoff following spine surgery). It's been 19 days now and I haven't climbed on it. It doesn't hurt too badly with light resistance - more just what feels like hard to shift inflammation. I've started light therabanding and some scapular press-up+ and normal press-ups. My question is about deep friction massage.I had a similar injury from mixed climbing in Canada about 8 years ago - then it was quite a bad strain of 3 of the 4 rotator cuff muscles from falling onto one arm and twisting. My left shoulder has since then been way tighter than the right one, presumably from scar tissue shortening. Back then I saw a Canadian physio for 6 weeks who did some sickeningly painful deep massage during the rehab phase, using these little blunt metal 'blades' called graston tools: http://www.grastontechnique.com/. It seemed to work well then and I'm wondering if I should try to aggressively massage this one during the healing phase and if there's much evidence to show it improves healing time? Also any general tips for rehabbing a minor bicep longhead strain which is starting to feel stubbornly inflammatory.
Hi!I managed to injure my left hand ring finger while bouldering on a two finger pocket where alot of load was put on the ring finger. Initially i didn't think it was so bad. I experienced some pain in my palm but i still finished the session with some easy traverse (no pain). Now after 4 days of complete rest i can hardly load the finger at all in open hand before there's pain. The pain is located from about the middle of the palm to the first knuckle. Loading the finger in a crimp position is much less painful.Any advice?
Please help!I was doing some front-3 half crimping on the fingerboard two days ago, when I felt a sudden twinge in my left ring finger. I moved on, and had a decent session. However, the next day, it hurt (and still hurts) to extend my middle and ring fingers to the limit of their range of motion.There's no inflammation or pain with pressure on the finger, and it doesn't feel like it would hurt when crimping again or using four fingers open handed. The only thing that seems to hurt is this extension, but it's quite noticeable (hurts when I catch it on something, not climbing).I'm not quit sure what I've done, so any diagnosis and/or advice would be very much appreciated!
Back in January when I was climbing, using an open handing pinch at an awkward angle my wrist cracked. It was a bit painful afterwards. Since then it's never got any better but never got any worse until now. It seems to play up more when i'm draging holds and I can feel it really pulling on my wrist like it's going to pop! When I also hit a hold in a certain way and I feel the pain my grip goes very weak.Any ideas? Not sure what i've done and how to sort it...Cheers
ok played 9 holes of golf there on Tuesday for the first time in my life. Mid way through I started getting a pain in the outside of my elbow. It eased off after a day or so and have done a couple of short sessions in the wall with only a little discomfort since.Today I am getting a sharp pain in the outside of my elbow when I rotate my forearm outwards and, to a lesser extent, straighten my arm. Is it possible to get acute tennis elbow from golf??
I have an issue with the end joint of my left middle finger (near C3, I guess?). The pain seems to be localised around the outside side of the finger.With the finger fully extended, if I push upwards against the tip and resist it (like an isometric hold), I can feel a pain in the joint. Doing the same thing with a bent finger is fine. Climbing pretty much mirrors this; crimping is okay, open handed not so much.It happened about 10 days ago and has gotten a bit better since then, but I've not noticed any improvement over the last 4 or 5 days specifically. Should I just give it another week of no climbing? I find it quite difficult to limit myself to only easy things...
Hi HP clinic,I have a right elbow FCU tendinopathy on the epiciondyle itself ie right where the tendon joins the bone. I've been receiving treatment from a physio whose advice I respect, but progress is currently poor. I'm doing neg eccentrics with an 8kg dumbell, 2 sets of 15, 5 secs duration per rep, once a day. My climbing is limited to 2-3 hrs a week spread over 2-3 indoor sessions , avoiding extending my arm ie only using the arm in a limited range. This is manageable, but still causes soreness. Have you used any different protocols for similar tendinopathies with a measure of success? Any suggestions about a different approach? My climbing has really hit the buffers: I'm not really enjoying being a 95% ex-climber.thanks!Jon
Quote from: roddersm on May 09, 2014, 11:59:22 amok played 9 holes of golf there on Tuesday for the first time in my life. Mid way through I started getting a pain in the outside of my elbow. It eased off after a day or so and have done a couple of short sessions in the wall with only a little discomfort since.Today I am getting a sharp pain in the outside of my elbow when I rotate my forearm outwards and, to a lesser extent, straighten my arm. Is it possible to get acute tennis elbow from golf?? Hi, if you are trying any activity or sport that is new to you regardless of strength and fitness then you can be prone to injuries. Basically we adapt to an activity over time, and stresses to muscles, bones, ligaments and tendons are necessary to get stronger and hopefully improve. For example a climbers finger tendons will be a lot stronger than an average person and usually there are boney changes at the finger joints due to putting stresses through them and jamming them into small holes. To cut a long story short you can irritate the common muscle/tendon attachment at the elbow. It may also be that the joint is grumbling from twisting and over extending during the golf stroke. Hopefully this has settled now but let me know if you are experiencing further problems.regardsMatt
Hello HPclinic,Back in January I felt a slight twinge in my left hand middle finger when climbing. I didn't really notice any pain at the time so finished my session. The following morning it felt sore at the base of the finger. Being an idiot I carried on climbing on it for another few weeks and it wasn't until March that I started trying to manage the situation.The current status is that climbing open handed on my finger feels OK, but any holds in the full crimp position make it hurt. It is also slightly swollen towards the base and when I massage it there is what feels like a small lump on the left hand side of the proximal phalanx.I don't think it is a pulley injury as I've had these before. Just wondered if you had any advice on what it could be and suggestions for managing it.Thanks.
While moving above a small pinch/crimp something felt wrong in my RH middle finger (yesterday) I stopped and abandoned my holiday . I now have noticeable swelling between the knuckles of my third (middle) and fourth (ring) finger, along with pain in the base of the third finger when I fully straighten the finger, resist on a very open crimp positions and some pain if I make the third and fourth finger move contrary to each other (always at base of finger rather than standard ring pulley pain I have experienced before).This is outside my normal finger injury/rehab experience, I am guessing I have done something around where the tendons of the third and fourth finger meet/are shared? Any advice other than rest/ice/cold water (how long icing before switching to cold water)? Any taping strategies that may help on returning to climbing?Thanks in advance.
I have an ongoing collateral ligament injury in a middle finger. Since pushing it too hard again last weekend it now clicks and crunches like nothing else when stretched, and sometimes clicks quite a lot just opening and closing it. Any thoughts/advice on how concerning that should be?