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Fish boulder - Wimberry (Read 3990 times)

Jon_e

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Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 01, 2004, 09:25:28 am
Can someone tell me what grade the traverse on the back of the fish boulder at Wimberry is?

Jim

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#1 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 01, 2004, 09:42:11 am
I think its 7a+, but I'm sure dense will be along to give me some abuse and tell me I'm wrong. Which way did you do it, feet on or footless?

Jon_e

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#2 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 01, 2004, 12:33:24 pm
I did it with a sit start right foot on small smear left heel hook, then continued up to slopers.

Couldnt do it though as me skin was already trashed and the grit on the slopers is brutal! Felt hard though, V6-7??

a dense loner

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#3 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 02, 2004, 10:31:23 pm
sept a maybe plus me recons. bit harder than gw n dope. walk further round n see 2 none holds, sit start use these n top sept ce plus of anyone's money.  :wink:

Johnny Brown

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#4 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 11:19:17 am
as I remember it is a total path, even in the warm. At least a grade easier than dope or grilla. However dense's prob to right is indeed desperate. Hardest unrepeated prob in the peak? :shock: Or would that be at hobby moor?? What can I say, the man's a machine :roll:

Jon_e

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#5 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 01:14:21 pm
im not sure if i was doing the right one, from this photo is this the unrepeated one? and is it a footless traverse?  :?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=631&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=555[/img]

Jon_e

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#6 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 01:16:44 pm
sorry scroll down for the pic, obviously in the pic he's footless but did he sit start it or start higher up? sorry for sounding thick im just confused about which problems which!

Jim

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#7 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 04:08:44 pm
this problem is the traverse your on about:

it starts on the left arete (low start if you want) and goes across the lip (heel on or footless) on rough holds (hence coarse traverse as in coarse fishing  :lol:  ) to an obvious finish up the right arete.
It's not quite as easy as Johnny makes out for everybody though.
Dense's unrepeated problem is to the left of the climber in this photo:

it is clearly nails

Jon_e

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#8 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 05:38:28 pm
Cheers Jim for explaining that, i understand now  :)  ill have another crack at it when im next there, felt pretty hard for me when i tried it  :oops:

Dense's problem looks nails

Cheers

a dense loner

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#9 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 09:19:27 pm
for traverse sit start for extra couple of nice moves, i get the obvious first boss n then go footless, only cos i end up cleanin it year in year out on my own (like i am every night!) n the middle's a bit spicy, landin betwixt the boulders. in other words i am a coward. left heel is the way if u've a spotter and/or it's clean. key is to make lots of small hand moves in a right left right left scenario. personally i think it's harder, maybe not a grade but physically, than gw or dope but johnny is a legend in his own street n only just beyond  :wink:

Jon_e

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#10 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 09:44:54 pm
do you mean harder than 'gw' as in gorrilla warfare at curbar?? [/quote]

a dense loner

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#11 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 09:58:14 pm
yeh gorilla at curbar not great white. gw easier for me tho cos am better at crimpin than i am on slopers. send me or jim a pm next time u're thinkin of goin up if u're keen. loads of probs  :D

Jon_e

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#12 Fish boulder - Wimberry
June 03, 2004, 10:02:46 pm
cheers, was up there on bank holiday monday, first time ive been in ages, expected it to be busier but saying that it was way too hot and friction was crap!

 

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