[SA Chris]

Swift Flight of Fancy at Sennen. It's beyond me why Kafoozalem gets E3 its harder and left me a broken man.

Was it Samson Arete we did at Bosigran? Seem to remember that being pretty good value.

There are a few omissions there from Bosigran; I remember Desolation Row being very good.

How about Dartmoor stuff? And if you aren't too keen on walk ins then Reecastle has plenty to go at.

[crimp]

Fiend, if your mate the pylon king is a forest dweller, other easy walk in quarries with good looking low to mid Es i would get him to show you around include:

staple edge - not been since it was developed but the horned one and nose job look impressive lines.

Shakemantle quarry can be fun. Summer bird closure mind.

Avoid tintern quarry. Not only is it a heart attack inducing fierce uphill walk out, it's just a horrible hole.

Hey, they're not quarries, but check out some forest sandstone outcrops while you're there, if you haven't already.

On the east of the severn bridge, for off piste easy walk in mid extreme quarries, you could do worse than check out:

fairy cave quarry
split rock quarry
portishead quarry

[IanP]

Andy:  BUT Arm's Race and the one next to it should be on my list, I like that upper wall.

warpath is ok, but there are dozens of massively superior routes at gogarth of a similar difficulty... if you want a really, really easy e5 though, you're onto a winner ;-)

Possibly, but I really enjoy Rhoscolyn and it has an excellent accessible set of of atmospheric single pitch routes in the E3 - E5 range.  If you haven't already done them The Sun, Centerfold, Electric Blue, Trail of Tears and Magellens Wall are all excellent.  Agree on the softness of Warpath, I did it the same day as Magellen's and found the latter significantly harder (though I think this has been upgraded).

[Teaboy]

By the way, a really excellent book/tick list for the type of route you are after is Paul Dearden's Classic Rock Climbs, I've always intended making an amalagmted tick list of all routes in my various picture books but I doubt I'll ever get round to it.

[Bonjoy]

Castell y Gwynt is good and fits your spec. New Dimensions is the obvious classic in your range.
Also on the trad limestone, what about Yorkshire Dales? Blue Scar and Gordale are both great in very different ways.

Peakwise, how about a minimal aid ascent of Buried Alive in Thors Cave? From the darkest recesses of the cave to the top of the hill in about six pitches. Done clean it’s 7c+ but would go at maybe 7a with five or six aid points. Loads of bolts but doesn’t feel anything like ‘normal’ sport climbing. Guaranteed big exhausting day out. Headtorches essential, stick clip useful for the start of pitch 1, sketchy E3 5b without the stick.

[Fiend]

Thanks for some good suggestions.

It's worth pointing out that I don't like 90% of UK inland limestone and would rather take part in a Human Centipede-style conga-line with a herd of highland cattle than climb on most of it. Some quarried stuff is an exception. Sorry Bonjoy, duncan and andy!

I'm also not a bit fan of Cornish granite, unlike the Lime I recognise it's quality but it just doesn't suit me, I prefer pillow lava .

I've also deliberately missed out the Peak, Yorkshire, and the mighty Lancs quarries as I'm familiar with them.

Okay...

Mastodon - possibly, I need to do the bigger St Gurnards routes too.

Yellow Edge & Amnita etc etc - good call I like that sort of cheese.

Warpath - fuck no I am not after a soft E5 nor any of that bollox, I just like the climbing around there. Did The Sun, Centrefold, Godzilla and that E2 on the right and just liked the vibe, I prefer Rhosy and South Stack rock to the main cliff.


Teaboy:
Crafnant - that Clogywn Y Ewyer crag should be back on my list, I did Oriole and need to do something to the right.
Done Green Wall, very nice.
Pagan - well I like South Stack.
Done Craig Arthur.
Rhinnogs - Carreg Y Merched, Y Grisau and the Rock Steady crag have some truly great stuff on.
Done Burnt Crag.
Done Gowther.
Done Gimmer pre-DVTs, too much these days.

Done Desolation Row, great route.

Done Split Rock and Portishead, recced Fairy Cave but not that inspired.

Actually Shadowlands should be on my list, even though it terrifies me and might be unjustifiable.

[Bonjoy]

It's worth pointing out that I don't like 90% of UK inland limestone and would rather take part in a Human Centipede-style conga-line with a herd of highland cattle than climb on most of it.

Yellow Edge & Amnita etc etc - good call I like that sort of cheese.

 

[Fiend]

Don't you wave your antennae at me like that! I like a fair bit of quarried lime, especially when it forms that weird crozzly pockety stuff like Avon Upper Wall (and Split Rock for that matter).

[crimp]

 

hmmm...

I would say lundy stuff, but might be too much like cornish granite for you.

How about something scary at henna or beeny cliffs?

Exmoor coast traverse. 30,000 foot of tidal terror. Never done it, but sounds a laugh.

Il duce at tintagel?

[Fiend]

Tintagel. Now we're talking. It does intrigue me, but may be too much?? I still want to know if the North Cliff stuff listed in the book is worth a visit, it sounds very good on paper??

[crimp]

And for a last roll of the local dice, i offer for you:

Uphill quarry and north quarry. Should suit if you like split rock, and haven't already done them.

I won't say Brean, too obvious and not so 'off piste'

I really would get the pylon king to show you spion kop central tower. It's pretty impressive for mid extremes.

[T_B]

The walk in to Esk Buttress might not be that uphill over Great Moss, but it's a long way.

I've done Amanita and Ladder of Desire/Them. I thought they were very adventurous/memorable. Went to Cheddar once and thought it was a bit grim - really noisy with loads of boy racers driving up and down the gorge.

Samurai Groove is well good. I though it was pretty scary.

Byzantium might have a long reach on it.

Clogwyn yr Eryr in the Crafnant has a lot of E2-E4 routes. Lush aspect, though hard/intimidating crag I thought.

[crimp]

And for a last roll of the local dice, i offer for you:

Uphill quarry and north quarry. Should suit if you like split rock, and haven't already done them.

I won't say Brean, too obvious and not so 'off piste'

I really would get the pylon king to show you spion kop central tower. It's pretty impressive for mid extremes.

only footage i can find, not the best, but may give you a feel of the central tower

[Fiend]

Okay will add that easier Love thing to the list, that does sound pretty interesting.

[ksjs]

Direct Hit is quite pokey, only seconded it. Byzantium is fantastic but considered E5 by quite a few (I only scratch the surface of E5 and I got up it so it can't be too tricky), whatever the grade the cams in the break felt less than amazing to me and you wouldn't want them to rip. Still, ultimately steady climbing on largely sound rock.

Not sure what else to say or recommend. If you get to do Crimson Cruiser, Nosferatu (given E4 in NWR but more like steep E3) and The Green Wall on the adjacent crag are superb (Craig Yr Wrysgan). If you haven't been to Clogwyn yr Eryr it's got some great stuff, I only did Astoroth and Phoenix on my single day there but both are superb - Astoroth is nails for E2 (done many way easier E3s) with a perplexing, smooth, flared corner at its end. Snowdrop (E4) is supposed to be amazing.

At the risk of suggesting stuff you've done or is too obvious:

The Sind E3, Yellow Walls - looks incredible and is utterly absorbing
Mask of Red Death E3, Rhoscolyn - unsung genius
Weasels Rip My Flesh E4, Pass - just beautiful, slightly committing climbing on perfect rock
Memory Lane E3, Pass - often overlooked but just a great route with good if spaced gear (the only slightly dodgy section is maybe the top arete where rock quality isn't as good and I think there's only 1 piece of gear which isn't amazing, if you've made it that far you'll be fine though)

Enjoy!

[Fultonius]

I take it you've either been to Sharpnose, or dismissed it for some reason? If not, it's fairly fiend friendly as the walk is fairly flat (unless my memory fails me, which it could do)

[crimp]

Gurnards head - behemoth, etc?

[chris j]

I take it you've either been to Sharpnose, or dismissed it for some reason?

Look under 'stuff wot I have done' in the OP...

[Fultonius]

    

[IanP]

f you haven't been to Clogwyn yr Eryr it's got some great stuff, I only did Astoroth and Phoenix on my single day there but both are superb - Astoroth is nails for E2 (done many way easier E3s) with a perplexing, smooth, flared corner at its end. Snowdrop (E4) is supposed to be amazing.

I've really enjoyed a few visits to Clogwyn yr Eyr, Phoenix is excellent, Clonus LH is good though a bit pokey at the start, Connies Crack into Snowdrop is a brilliant combination and 'good' value at E4, Astoroth is as you say 'interesting' and excellent, if you find it straightforward you can finish up Snowdrop LH which is a good E4 and particullarly interesting if you think you're on the 5b finish of Astoroth!  To finish off The Web on the further right is good route with a big feel.

If you can do the walk to Clogwyn yr Eyr then Scimitar Ridge might be worth considering Chreon is the warm up then the Roc-Nest Monster is really good followed by a set of classic E5s.

[Fiend]

Aye I seem to remember the walk-in to Eywr was more tedious and tiring rather than brutally prohibitive. Scimitar Ridge is sort of on the list too.

[thekettle]

Lakes:
 Raven Crag Threshwaite Cove if it's not too far?
Bit easier but Banzai Pipeline and No Holds Barred are both clean and 15 minutes from the road. Empire on Raven Thirlmere stays fairly clean if you traverse into the second pitch from the Totalitarian belay. I assume you've done the Lakes slate.

[Fiend]

Aye that thing on Raven Threshwaite looks good - got drizzled off there years ago, I'm not sure about the walk as it's mostly flat but the last bit was hideous.

Raven Thirlmere I didn't like the vibe of so much, it was all a bit horticultural around the crag.

Yup have done plenty of Lakes slate, ace stuff Orifice Fish should be on my list I guess but it's definitely my anti-style...

[bubbles]

There is half a dozen E1-E4 single pitch routes on the left hand side of Iron Crag in Thirlmere. Hiddenite is brilliant.

The walk is fairly similar to Raven Thresh... mostly flat with a steep slog up to the crag.

[duncan]

A few more SW ideas.

Tintagel: You have to do Il Duce if you are going to complete the north coast triple crown (along with America and Darkinbad). King’s Arete is also good.  First 20’ is a bit go-ey - 5c with no gear - but it’s fine after that. Standard E4 5c I thought. I’d like to do Vagabond some time. I don't know anyone who has done this. Neil Foster must have. Are you reading this Neil?

Lower Sharpnose: a bit conventional for Fiend, though he might enjoy the cows:


Doyden Point: worth a visit. Rock is more Gowla than Kellan’s pillow lava.  Lotus is just the sort of minor classic you might enjoy. There are a couple of other E1s to make the visit worthwhile. The wall to the right of Lotus, with Illegal Alien and Sick Rose, all looked a bit too ooo-errr for my liking.

Carn Gowla: I’ve not done much at other than the usuals. Crystal Voyager E1 is fun. I’d like to try Andromeda Strain some time, though this will now probably require someone young and foolish to lead me up it.

Bosigran: I used not to be so keen on Bosigran as it’s not a ‘real’ sea cliff and all a bit too popular. This was pure snobbery on my part. Xanadu is probably the best route I’ve done there. It’s got a lot packed into about 200’: steep corners, delicate faces, overhangs and a juicy little offwidth to finish. It about as hard as E2 gets down there and might sneak into E3 at a popular grit venue. Ghost is very good too.

Went to Cheddar once and thought it was a bit grim - really noisy with loads of boy racers driving up and down the gorge.

This seems to have got much worse in the last decade. On a recent visit I was ‘encouraged’ out of the way by a bunch of gentlemen lining their Subarus beneath High Rock for a photoshoot. The higher tiers are relatively peaceful but it is never going to be wilderness.