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[Peak] [Burbage South] [New Intense] [8aFb] (Read 3626 times)

petercrimp

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Drew

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Forgive my ignorance, but that looks remarkably like Intense except that you didn't just just go straight to the top after doing this first move?  :shrug:

petercrimp

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This is my friend's ascent, I only add this link so I can't  speak out about it

Bonjoy

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I don't get it.

Andy B

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 I think I may have put up a few hundred new problems without realising!

Gritlad

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I think having spoken to the man in the video about it and also had he show me his method is that this "New Intense" avoids the widening in the break (just to the right of the jumped to hold) and is also the only way the man could do the problem (He showed me that he used a highish left toe to get the top.
 Sorry, i know that doesn't help much.....
Oh, and apologies to the gent if this is wrong.

Stubbs

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This is the description on the video:

Quote
Direct version of J.Moffat`s Intense, with sidepulls and hard move to left hand sloper. 8a+ for shorter climbers. The simpliest distinction between old and new version: if you use the big (usually wet) jug in the middle as a foothold than you climb old version and you need to use holds in crack going to the top jug left hand; if you start from far left foothold than you climb new version and you have to use far left hand sidepull and sloper (these holds are not used in old version) with no need to use holds in the crack. You finish right hand in top jug.

shark

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Are rules coming back into fashion ?? I expect Jerry would approve


rodma

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If the geezer in question climbed the problem the only way that he could, i fail to see why he would take a higher grade, let alone claim it as a new variant.

Too weak to do it one way,  managed another.


a dense loner

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That's not a new problem, why would he think it is? It's not as if its a classic like fight club is it?

Jaspersharpe

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This is hilarious.

Stubbs

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Vid has now been made private...

 

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