i ve always been told to train safe and never crimp (usually drag) but for me crimping has been far more beneficial (when was the last time you actually dragged a hold on a problem?).... so long as you re careful i think its the way to go
Quote from: iwasmexican on March 18, 2013, 11:35:21 ami ve always been told to train safe and never crimp (usually drag) but for me crimping has been far more beneficial (when was the last time you actually dragged a hold on a problem?).... so long as you re careful i think its the way to goOnce I stopped crimping in training... ALL THE FRIGGIN' TIME.
Quote from: scottygillery on March 18, 2013, 01:04:55 pmQuote from: iwasmexican on March 18, 2013, 11:35:21 ami ve always been told to train safe and never crimp (usually drag) but for me crimping has been far more beneficial (when was the last time you actually dragged a hold on a problem?).... so long as you re careful i think its the way to goOnce I stopped crimping in training... ALL THE FRIGGIN' TIME.Seconded - after the third or fourth A2 injury, I decided to incorporate a large amount of warming up on 3 finger open handed holds and eventually fin myself in the position that I never crimp on easy boulders any more. I'll drag or open hand everything (mainly because I am concerned about another injury). On top end boulders I still crimp where required of course...but carefully.Open handed is the way to go if you can.
The crimp/half crimp/drag is a false problem in my opinion. You have to train everything because each prehension trains basically itself. Only, I think it's important to train them wisely. I don't crimp on a hangboard. I crimp on the board.
Am I missing something but his forearms are huge and I don't believe it is through hanging for total 90 seconds twice a week...?
I am probably going to get flamed as this is my second post on this forum.... but these are my two cents.