[tomtom]

Add in the width to the initial/opening img markup...

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Thanks Slackers - and thanks Bubba for editing it..

[tommytwotone]

Things like this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=467

Aha - there was a guy there on Sat (Owen, not sure if he'd be on here?) trying that 7a traverse. We saw chalk on the other lines too, they look great.

This place seriously needs an updated guide - I bet there is stacks more stuff since the last one came out!

[tomtom]

This place needs an updated guide - I bet there is stacks more stuff since the last one came out!

Yes as Ysgo newbies I/we found BoulderBritain had pictures but some of the lines in the wrong place - and though the N.Wales guide had much better coverage, I found the boulder outlines/maps a bit hard to follow - we ended up using the pictures of people on problems in the N.Wales guide cross referenced with BoulderBritain to work out where we were...

Though I understand an updated guide is being worked on - which sounds superb!

[Grubes]

on a similar note is there any rules on the incredible shaking man stand start. From the ledge I went out to the shallow pocket in the crack out left
(below the ledge the guy reaches in this picture)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=176904
but TT stuck strictly to the groove.

Is it strictly up the groove or is the pocket and shelf in?

[Dolly]

When's the new guide meant to be out ?

[Drew]

on a similar note is there any rules on the incredible shaking man stand start...
Is it strictly up the groove or is the pocket and shelf in?

The Incredible shaking Man V3
A classic problem, ascending the left side of the seaward facing wall, past the slopey ledge system...

i.e. more than one slopey ledge hence ledge on right must be kosher.

[Jayefuu]

Agree. Thought (though I didn't tick it myself) that getting off the low break and established on the face was the crux.

Nuh uh! I found the hardest bit bringing the right hand up after getting the highest left crimp.

James

[tomtom]

on a similar note is there any rules on the incredible shaking man stand start...
Is it strictly up the groove or is the pocket and shelf in?

The Incredible shaking Man V3
A classic problem, ascending the left side of the seaward facing wall, past the slopey ledge system...

i.e. more than one slopey ledge hence ledge on right must be kosher.

Going straight up on the same ledge/flake was really nice though - had to lay off a sloper to stand up - lovely move... all good!

[SA Chris]

I'm pretty sure I cusped the arete with my left just above his head in that pic, got a heel up and went through with right. Felt nice too.

[tomtom]

I'm pretty sure I cusped the arete with my left just above his head in that pic, got a heel up and went through with right. Felt nice too.

yeah - the arete of the flake thing on the face.. thats what I did.. nice move.

[Paul B]

you guys do have a copy of Stick it!, right?

[tomtom]

Nope.

[Pantontino]

When's the new guide meant to be out ?

This year - not sure of exact date yet but we are beavering away on it.

[Pantontino]

Things like this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=467

Aha - there was a guy there on Sat (Owen, not sure if he'd be on here?) trying that 7a traverse. We saw chalk on the other lines too, they look great.

This place seriously needs an updated guide - I bet there is stacks more stuff since the last one came out!

That was probably Owen Hayward - he's done a lot of new stuff down there in recent years.

There are a huge amount of new problems beyond the original classic circuit. It's one of those places that is just made to be climbed on; even the most inconsequential looking bit of rock can provide quality climbing. I've been a regular visitor since 97 and I'm still finding good new things to do.

Did you check out the Fred Nicole Roof? Got to be one of the best project lines I've ever seen - shame it's probably 8B!

[Pantontino]

on a similar note is there any rules on the incredible shaking man stand start. From the ledge I went out to the shallow pocket in the crack out left
(below the ledge the guy reaches in this picture)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=176904
but TT stuck strictly to the groove.

Is it strictly up the groove or is the pocket and shelf in?

Anything goes, just climb as you see fit. For what it's worth I think it is probably 6B.

[Grubes]

Anything goes, just climb as you see fit. For what it's worth I think it is probably 6B.

Thanks I will take that only my second flash of that grade

[Drew]

you guys do have a copy of Stick it!, right?

I do (can lend it if people want to watch Britain's best bouldering film), but if you're referring to TISM, it cuts from Dave Noden (Rock Star) catching the first slopey shelf, to him standing on top.

[andy_e]

Good knowledge!