UKBouldering.com

Bouldering improvements in later life.... (Read 16884 times)

Pebblespanker

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 282
  • Karma: +12/-0
  • Old, grey and weak as a kitten
Just had my 50th ...  :boohoo: started back around 5-6 years ago after a long layoff and took me over 12 months to achieve even a lowly 6A

Managed one goal of a 7a before I was 50 - minor cheat in that it is an extended V5 bouldering traverse that gets a sport grade  but at my age you take what you can get lol, other goal of 7A remained very close but just out of reach but I remain hopeful and train as hard as I can

Am stronger now than ever and still improving, also more savvy about how to avoid injury a critical skill in the geriatric as is managing them when you can feel the clock ticking - most recent was to my foot/ankle that made anything away from the fingerboard a non-starter, even onto crash mats indoors - somewhat annoying as it was at the end of a 12 week period of strength training and just as I was looking forward to transferring some of the new strength to rock; worked out OK in that it has pissed it down up here in Fife over pretty much the whole Xmas period whilst the ankle was damaged so I have used the time on the fingerboard instead

Best advice I can give is ignore your age and but be ruthless in your assessment of yourself and your peformance so you put focus where focus is needed, even if the truth hurts e.g. my technique is crap,  lastly pick your battles carefully 

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13681
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
30, fucking kids.

When did Ben Moon do Voyager again?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
starting working my way through classic rock

Bet you will find that more of a challenge than ticking the next number on boulders.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8863
  • Karma: +275/-42
I'm 25 today. That's it, far too old now. Over the hill. Might as well quit and take up beer-ticking instead.

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
I was 30 in Dec. I started climbing when I was 23. I am currently, stronger and less injured (generally speaking) than i've ever been.

Ste Mac said his best year in terms of crush was at 40.

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 863
  • Karma: +74/-1
Fifty five...and still alive. Climbing well...and growing old disgracefully...

danski

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 36
  • Karma: +2/-0
I'm 43 in April and fully expect to send 7C this year.  Did 7B on my first trip out this year with 10 pounds of excess christmas pudding round my waist. Its having young kids and too much Red wine that causes me to fall in and out of  form!  I'd love to be 30 again and have the opportunity for 12 years retro training.  Reckon i'd cranking 8A by now.  Shit, I'm having a mid life crisis!!


Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
I've got a mate out here who did his first 12 at 43 and now at 46 is still doing the odd 10 or 11. So don't worry - there's still hope for you yet.......

.......at 30.  ;D

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5868
  • Karma: +639/-36
Imo, a lot of it's in the mind and the strong gravitational pull of being like your age cohort amongst climbers. If you don't want to perform like your age cohort, climb with younger people more. 30 isn't even mid-life.

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2001
  • Karma: +134/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
30. bloody youth...

I'm nearly 42 and managed to improve my max bouldering grade from 7A+ to 7C lst year by a bit of focused training and actually tying hard on the blocs. And I've been climbing for nearly 25 years. You have a long way to go, just keep pushing yourself and the improvements will soon appear  :2thumbsup:

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
30 isn't even mid-life.

Its the start though if you're generous and over-estimate the mean life expectancy to be around 90 and then divide that into tertiles of young/middle-age/old.  :P

6ASTU

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 7
  • Karma: +0/-0
I am 36 and have only been climbing for 1 1/2 years and only bouldering for a few months so I hope the only way is up and I'm not over the hill already.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8863
  • Karma: +275/-42
divide that into tertiles of young/middle-age/old.  :P

Like this?


fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2906
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
I started climbing at the age of 25 (already having two kids) and fairly steadily built up to bouldering 7a+ then life got in the way in the form of bad relationships and too much partying etc. I'm now nearly 37 and despite not bouldering anywhere near at my old peak, I feel fitter than ever and find myself hugely positive about the future of my climbing.

I'm fairly recently married to a very understanding wife (who is slowly but surely getting the bug) and finding that this has settled me down more and helped me re-focus on what I want to achieve in climbing but also in the world of fishing. It can be hard to juggle three kids, a hard (but very satisfying) job, wanting to climb and fish all the time, train, afford all the things we want and maintain a good relationship with all parties!

However, that's a big part of what life is all about surely!?

To the OP I'd echo what everyone else has said and suggest that you take inspiration from the likes of what Tom and Nai have achieved in their 40's.

At least, that's what I'm doing  :)

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
But does your lady wife know that one of your goals is to bag a fat old trout?

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
Again, Stevie Haston. 

I'm 40 this year, and I'm not done yet.  Gains take longer, but you consolidate faster.  You gain more wizardry.

I lost a fair bit of spark due to work and kids, but its come back around.  I'm back to full power on the shorter, more intense problems of my younger years.  Also, getting much stronger at the minute - it can be done mate.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8863
  • Karma: +275/-42
Shorter, more intense being 1-2 moves as opposed to your longer power stamina problems of 3-4 moves  ;)

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
That's right.  When 5 moves is approaching a stamina fest, who needs more than three? 

ghisino

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 664
  • Karma: +36/-0
a good friend of mine bouldered his hardest (7b+ i think?) being 46.
another did "la balance" (7c/+) at a similar age, and with a pulley-less finger (not that it requires much crimping...).

if i can extrapolate from their examples i'd say that good performances and even improvements are still possible, yet:

-minor injuries and recovery might be a serious issue. The first guy only manages to get his best shape once every two years...
-motivation and a positive attitude towards younger climbers are essential.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
I don't understand how a positive attitude towards younger climbers is essential to an older person bouldering better in later life? I'd agree with the other things certainly

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5868
  • Karma: +639/-36
I think there's a temptation, in my experience anyway, to feel secretly a little bit jealous of younger climbers who are doing what you want to do and know you 'could' do if you had the time/youth/recovery that they do blah blah blah. Not a constructive attitude and I think it can make you accept less than your potential. Climbing with younger climbers forces oldies out of the comfort zone of ding what their age cohort are doing, which is nearly always a way to improve as long as you steer clear of injury.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8042
  • Karma: +745/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
As others said. 41 in two weeks and never been so strong in my life. Highs and lows but generally a full notch above any other period of my climbing history. Core, fingers, pull ups, full body power.
Having a home wall and generally some spare time to train is very important, but it all starts in the mind.

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3339
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
Another old git checking in. I'll be 45 this year.

I don't really train that much (nothing particularly structured anyway) but last year I lost some weight and felt as strong, at least for a few months, as I was in my twenties. I feel like I've got much better crag skills these days - it always amazes me how younger climbers who crank at the wall are completely rubbish outside on real rock. So I guess that is one benefit of being old and experienced.

I am carrying a bad finger injury at the moment though - maybe that is just standard issue as you get older. Or maybe not, as I did it when I broke one of my golden rules about warming up - a real stupid schoolboy error.




webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5074
  • Karma: +144/-13
Oh dear I seem to be the oldest of lot of old gits at 57. I don't improve any more although last year I did a couple of 7a+ which I haven't achieved for a few years. I have to work quite hard at staying at the level I'm at but that could be more to do with drinking like a fish and trying to be competive on my bike at the same time.

IS2

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +10/-0
I am recently retired, in my sixties and expect to complete several projects both in this country and in Font this year.  I have far more time to train and rest than when I was working and am therefore stronger than I was in my 50’s.   A key focus for me has been improving flexibility and technique and both of these require substantial time investment that is starting to pay off now.
 
In my experience  probably the greatest inhibitor of performance is “ life in general “ and it seems to me that marriage, children and careers take a serious toll on one from about 30 to 60, after which a few good years should be possible if you have kept yourself in reasonable condition.

The comments about climbing with younger people are interesting as I have always bouldered  with people who are younger than me and learned vast amounts about improving technique and trying hard from them. I have, therefore, always had great respect for them and fueled my passion to “ climb better “ with the enthusiasm of successive generations.

I do not expect to continue improving in terms of grades forever but would hope that I can improve technically and eventually get to be able to move like some of the very old bleausards I see out in the forest, sending things with a perfect balance of poise power and grace.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal