UK problems yet to see a repeat (Read 30461 times)

Percy B · April 21, 2004, 09:32:03 am

Was wondering about problems that have been established in the UK for a year or two now which haven't seen repeats yet. I can think of a few in the Peak, but it would be nice to get a decent list together to locate the really nasty stuff waiting to see some action.

Off the top of my head, and in the Peak I can think of the following (unless anybody knows of any of these getting repeated...)

No Mercy at Eagle Tor
Strong Steves massive link-up on the Face of Business at Stanage
Brad Pitt sit-start at Stanage
Domes sit-start at Rowtor
Stump-Hole Cavern (full version) at Tom's Cave, Chatsworth

Theres loads more, but my minds gone blank.... There must be some real classics in need of a repeat though! List away folks........

dave · April 21, 2004, 09:35:57 am

didn't no mercy get done by some kiwi lad? try a search on here for it.

has the sitter to superman been repeated? or the andy brown deliverance wall?

squeek · April 21, 2004, 09:39:55 am

A lot of Gaskins problems must be unrepeated, not just the
obvious ones (Walk Away), I'm sure someone will actually know.

That V6 at Thorn Crag that people were saying was unrepeated
recently.

High Fidelity.

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 09:56:03 am

No Mercy also repeated by Kim Thompson, thought it to be no harder than 7b+ for the tall. Both Kim and Seb climbed the arete front on rather than using flake on right.
Kim also repeated Domes SS, i think Mr Moon may have repeated this also.

Lowrider, Solomon's Seal, Green Room Slap ss - Stanage North
Sweat Release, Jelly Eyes - Wharncliffe
:poke:
Classic's one and all :D
(can't resist an opportunity to big-up our probs)

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 09:59:11 am

Quote from: "dave"

didn't no mercy get done by some kiwi lad? try a search on here for it.

has the sitter to superman been repeated? or the andy brown deliverance wall?

Kiwi Seb also repeated Andy Brown's LH Deliverance thing.

Percy B · April 21, 2004, 10:17:55 am

Full version of Stump-Hole Cavern is a prime candidate for a repeat by a bouncy type of tall person, I reckon, and ONLY V10! What a bargain!

How about the Welfords thing at Gardoms south, Barry Sheen. Has this been repeated? And that hideous wall left of West End Girls at Burbage that he did recently....

Chequers Groove?

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 10:20:44 am

Barry Shean - Kim again, last Thursday.

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 10:28:09 am

Dissolution - Eagle Tor
Nik's Wall - Rivelin Quarry
Master Kush - Rivelin

chappers · April 21, 2004, 10:30:20 am

squeek,
what is the V6 at thorn crag with no repeat?

recon that most of gaskins probs up here aint seen a repeat yet. including the v9 wall at thorn crag.
barry sheen spat my mate off 5 weeks in a row. glad to see its been repeated, i will delight in telling him!
anybody seen welfords rediculous overhanging arete thing with the back breaking boulder at gardoms, is that still not repeated?

dave · April 21, 2004, 10:30:57 am

working class sitting?

the big link in parisellas on aid?

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 10:52:27 am

Quote from: "chappers"

anybody seen welfords rediculous overhanging arete thing with the back breaking boulder at gardoms, is that still not repeated?

Do you mean the right arete of the leaning black near Barry Sheen. This is calleds Suavitto or similair and is Thomas D'gay's i think (and has had several repeats).

jonP · April 21, 2004, 10:57:14 am

Heaven In Your Hands:

nik at work · April 21, 2004, 10:59:16 am

I don't think that the direct start to Dougal (Rivelin Quarries) has had a proper repeat (i.e. without a run up) and Snatch (highball V10/11 at Denham, Lancashire) is also unrepeated AFAIK.

I'm just biggin 'meself up like a pimp daddy...

Scouse D · April 21, 2004, 11:01:36 am

Yehaa V4 Pen-y-pass. Get to it boys it's proper bo.

chappers · April 21, 2004, 11:03:28 am

Quote from: "Bonjoy"

Quote from: "chappers"

anybody seen welfords rediculous overhanging arete thing with the back breaking boulder at gardoms, is that still not repeated?

Do you mean the right arete of the leaning black near Barry Sheen. This is calleds Suavitto or similair and is Thomas D'gay's i think (and has had several repeats).

yeah, that big leaning block. saw a pic of welford on it in the mags. the landing is a joke.

dave · April 21, 2004, 11:05:13 am

Quote from: "Scouse D"

Yehaa V4 Pen-y-pass. Get to it boys it's proper bo.

wins the prize for lowest grade unrepeated problem?

I don't remember the laning for that suavito thing looking all that bad, with pad it should be ok i'd have thought.

Percy B · April 21, 2004, 11:11:09 am

I reckon at least a couple of pads and a BIG spotter for suavito. Nice problem though more of a micro-route in my opinion. Maybe we should start another thread....Boulder problems you could die/seriously spoil your day on! :wink:

Bonjoy · April 21, 2004, 11:13:27 am

Aye. Saw Sam W do Sauvitto on Sund'y, he managed to fall off fromm the slap for the top two or three times and land well on pad's. Having said that I couldn't force myself to go for the big slap. Spicy but safe really, similair commitment levels to Spare Rib.

squeek · April 21, 2004, 11:20:42 am

Quote from: "chappers"

squeek,
what is the V6 at thorn crag with no repeat?

Slice of Life, it's mentioned in the 'Benchmark V6' thread on page 6 (ish).

Bubba · April 21, 2004, 11:25:47 am

Quote from: "jonP"

Heaven In Your Hands:

is that :

Quote from: "yorkshiregrit.com"

Further on there are two striking highball aretes - one of these has yet to be climbed.

chappers · April 21, 2004, 11:27:49 am

i think that slice of life has been repeated, unless it was that nigel guy who did FA. stupid really, last time i was there i looked at it then ended up taking phots of my mate on bad moon and trying gaskins wall thing (to no avail at all).
ill have a crack next go round.

jonP · April 21, 2004, 11:28:20 am

It is. Recently climbed by David Sutcliffe. V10. Very impressive. He's also done the arete on the Clatterjack Wall at Clattering Stones, but I don't have a photo of that. Also very impressive.

Pantontino · April 21, 2004, 11:33:59 am

Pete Robins repeated this from a sds recently, but neither him, Nodder or Katz could manage John's Wall. Me thinks this could be harder than V9.

Obviously there are a fair few despy lines unrepeated in N Wales:

Neon Handshake V12 - CJD
Clutch V10 - CJD
Repeat After Me V10/11 - Nodder
Spawn sds V10/11 - Katz
Barrel reverse into groove V11 - Katz
Downset sds V12 - CJD
Humble Pie Disorder V11 - CJD
Swamp Thing low start V9 - CJD
Beef Thief V9 - Ritchie Patterson

Unless of course you lot know different?

Fiend · April 21, 2004, 11:50:27 am

Quote from: "chappers"

Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "chappers"

anybody seen welfords rediculous overhanging arete thing with the back breaking boulder at gardoms, is that still not repeated?

Do you mean the right arete of the leaning black near Barry Sheen. This is calleds Suavitto or similair and is Thomas D'gay's i think (and has had several repeats).

yeah, that big leaning block. saw a pic of welford on it in the mags. the landing is a joke.

Errrrr ummmm do you mean the fantastically good looking sharp squarecut arete at Gardom's south that was originally E5 6c?? If so the landing is not that bad at all, there are hideous boulders out left but directly beneath is quite reasonable, a few pads down and an extra spotter on the boulders and it would be fine I think. Of course still pretty high...

P.S. Cool thread Percy.

Sam · April 21, 2004, 11:52:44 am

What about Steve Dunning's V13/4 arete at Caley? Also surely Samson at Burbage must count as a highball in these days of pads?