[subseasniper]

Hey everyone.

I got myself a Beastmaker 2000 a few weeks ago and am looking to get my training a little bit more structured so I can maximise my gains as efficiently as possible.

I would love if some of you guys could share your beastmaker training regimes so we can compare notes.

I am by no meas an expert at the beastmaker, I still have a long way to go. To give you an idea of my current level (to help me figure out a training plan) I can currently just about do a decent, controlled pull up on the 45's, I can do 5 x middle-two pull ups on the back two pockets and I can do middle mono deadhangs for about ten seconds.

I am looking for a general improvement in strength across the board.

Please share your beastmaker experiences, tips, regimes with me. I totally love this board and see it as the key to unlocking newer, stronger forearms/hands.

Thanks in advance.

[mrjonathanr]

I am looking for a general improvement in strength across the board.

Very good.

[peewee]

Might be some useful info here http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training

[tomtom]

Use the search - theres a few threads on here about it...

[subseasniper]

Cheers guys, I  have been on the beastmaker site but there isn't much on there. They seem to be concentrating on getting the training app ready, which is cool, but in the meantime I could with some structure.

I will search the threads here.

[shark]

The below links should give you the answers you are looking for:

Dan Varian (Beastie boy #1) aka Carlisle Slapper
General fingerboard advice
Dan's advice on a GBIC thread
Ned Feehally (Beastie boy #2)
Video:Fingerboard Training – Beginner
Fingerboard Training – Advanced
Stretching
Fingerboard training plans

Although not specific to Beastmakers Probes (of Crusher Holds) guidance is on the money A comprehensive guide to fingerboard traing

For other links to training articles this should help (confuse you).

[Sasquatch]

As I got my beastmaker in January, I'll bite and give you pretty much my exact workouts. These are pretty much exactly the "intermediate" ones recommended by the Beastmaker guys.

I'm a big believer in consistancy, so I literally did the same FB workout 3 times a week for 6 weeks (different weights, same structure).  I also spent 2 weeks building up to the volume in these sets. At the end of each week I would assess if I needed to increase the weight for the following week.  I would never change the weight during the week-all three sessions were identical. 

6 week training cycle:

Monday - Fingerboard
Tuesday - Active Recovery
Wednesday - Fingerboard
Thursday - Active Recovery
Friday - Fingerboard
Saturday - Active Recovery
Sunday - Rest

Fingerboard:
   Warm-up - This usually consisted of a 5-10 min run, then 5 minutes of light/easy bouldering, then 5-10 min of progressive hangs (doing 5-7 second hangs on the same fingers as your workout, gradually building to the same hold you'll use in the workout).

   Repeater: on open crimp, back 2, front 2, closed crimp, middle 2, Sloper.   Repeater = 7 second Hang, 3 second rest x 6, then run for 3 minutes.

   After completing all of them rest for an additional 5 minutes.

   Repeater: on open crimp, back 2, front 2, closed crimp, middle 2, Sloper.   Repeater = 7 second Hang, 3 second rest x 6, then rest for 3 minutes.

   Cool - down:  Easy bouldering for 5-10 minutes. 

Active Recovery: VERY easy bouldering (I max out around v10/11ish and this is all v0) for 30-40 minutes.

[Andrew B]

So just 2 sets of repeaters on each of those hold types? What was the outcome of this; have you seen much improvement in actual climbing performance?

[Sasquatch]

So just 2 sets of repeaters on each of those hold types? What was the outcome of this; have you seen much improvement in actual climbing performance?

From a training perspective, I increased resistance for each hold type by between 15-30kgs over a 6 week period. (e.g. from need to take off about 5kgs to hang the 35s to adding 25kgs).  I do attribute a large portion of that to just starting FB'ing and breaking in the board.

From a climbing perspective, it's tough to say for sure as the season is just getting going here in Alaska.  Hoping for my first day outside tomorrow.  I'm confident I've never been this strong at the start of a season before.  I took a trip to Joe's Valley and was able climb more hard stuff faster than on any other trip I've taken.  I'm pretty sure it's been a huge step forward for me, but we'll see how I fare when I can finally get on some of my longer term projects this summer. 

A couple of tweaks to notice - I run or do other exercises on the 3min between repeaters hangs.  There have been a couple of studies showing better strength gains from engaging an alternate muscle group between exercises. 

[Andrew B]

Thanks for the reply, sounds interesting. Good luck with your climbing!

[duncan]

I am looking for a general improvement in strength across the board.

I'm sure all of the above will help you get stronger on the beastmaker.  Elsewhere you indicate that you only climb E1/2 and 6a (Font? UK tech? Sport?) despite being able to do a pull-up on the 45s.   

This suggests that raw strength is the least of your concerns if you want to improve your climbing.

[subseasniper]

Strength is probably the least of my concerns as you say but, with the weather being utterly shite up here, there seems to be more training going on that actual climbing. Technique is taking a bit of a back seat right now unfortunately.

[Sasquatch]

I'm sure all of the above will help you get stronger on the beastmaker.  Elsewhere you indicate that you only climb E1/2 and 6a (Font? UK tech? Sport?) despite being able to do a pull-up on the 45s.   

This suggests that raw strength is the least of your concerns if you want to improve your climbing.

 

Despite the poor weather.  Any type of body awareness training will be more helpful than a FB workout if this is the case.  I still can't even hang the 45s and I'm bouldering font 7C+ in a session. 

I would suggest climbing volume to learn to move your body well.  As in start climbing everyday.  Not hard, just lots of movment and playing on the wall.  Decent holds in funky positions. 

A way to measure this would be to start off by doing 200 moves every day, then add about 10% to that each week until you're up to about 500 moves a day.  If nessesary and you're motivated enough, this can be done on a board as small 4ft by 8ft (I know- I've done it)....

Good Luck

[Omar15]

I still can't even hang the 45s and I'm bouldering font 7C+ in a session. 

That's insane.


In terms of a workout, I've found working different max hangs (ie stuff you can only hold one or two armed for a 1-3 seconds) when you're really warm and all recruited up works well. Usually I find in a session I get better and better on whatever im trying, plateau and then start to go downhill - I try a different hang when that happens til im done. Weirdly I notice that sometimes on open handed hangs I'll feel stronger and stronger until suddenly I won't be able to hang it again at all til next session.

Good luck anyway!

[Duma]

I still can't even hang the 45s and I'm bouldering font 7C+ in a session. 

That's insane.

Keep in mind that Omar boulders 7B whilst FB'ing about 8B.
Strongest shit climber I've ever met. 

[Seb]

I still can't even hang the 45s and I'm bouldering font 7C+ in a session. 

That's insane.

One of my lifes ambitions is to climb harder than you while still being unable to do a one armer. Just to annoy you.
Credit where credits due hanging the sloppy 2 finger pockets one armed was pretty impressive though.

[subseasniper]

I'm guessing for 'sloppy' read 'slopey'.

[Seb]

  Yes, damn me and my spelling.

[Omar15]

Haha, thanks.

Duma - fingerboarding is bouldering too.

Seb - I find it pretty amazing you can even put your shoes on unaided without being able to do more than 10 pullups.

[Seb]

Omar, after an extensive training regiment I have now reached 12 pull ups. 

[shark]

Haha, thanks.

Duma - fingerboarding is bouldering to

   

Whoa cowboy hold the front page etc Do you wish to reconsider the above

[saltbeef]

Omar, after an extensive training regiment I have now reached 12 pull ups. 

regiment? you and your soldier boys?

[Seb]

Im beginning to think english might not be my first langauge.

[Sasquatch]

I still can't even hang the 45s and I'm bouldering font 7C+ in a session. 

That's insane.

One of my lifes ambitions is to climb harder than you while still being unable to do a one armer. Just to annoy you.
Credit where credits due hanging the sloppy 2 finger pockets one armed was pretty impressive though.

That's insane. 

I can't even hang them off two arms with 20kgs of weight taken off.  I guess we all know what I need to do to improve.

[Omar15]

I can't even hang them off two arms with 20kgs of weight taken off.  I guess we all know what I need to do to improve.

Is that a friction issue though? I've got a friend who can hang the 45s on the beastmaker at the wall, but apparently on his one at home he can't touch them. I've never really seen the attraction of them to be honest - I feel if I can hold them I can hold them for a while, but on other days if I can't its not because im weaker, I just slip off. As opposed to edges or the pockets where I can feel my fingers taking the strain. I don't know. What's the training benefit meant to be from the 45s?

I imagine even if you're twinkletoes, being able to smash out 7C+ in a session means you can't be that weak!

Credit where credits due hanging the sloppy 2 finger pockets one armed was pretty impressive though.

It was only the normal two finger pockets on the bottom rail. Hanging the 45 pockets one armed would be crazy. Has anyone done that yet?