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Dolphin Belly Slap, Demon Wall Roof Link (Read 2370 times)

haz

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Dolphin Belly Slap, Demon Wall Roof Link
February 05, 2012, 08:46:21 pm
Does anyone  know beta for this link? The one I'm referring to is problem 16 in the document below:

http://www.total-climbing.com/holding/downloads/almscliff_eliminates.pdf

I'm guessing the break is out, presumably some form of toe hook on the right wall?



Cheers

Stubbs

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#1 Re: Dolphin Belly Slap, Demon Wall Roof Link
February 05, 2012, 09:55:25 pm
You do DBS until you have the sloper on the lip with your left hand and your heel next to your right hand on the arete, then cross over with your RH to a poorer sloper to the left of the one your left hand is on, at the same time turning the heel into a toe hook. Match toe hooks, and RF onto a slopey foothold near the arete, LH out to the right hand of the two crimps you use on the lip for DWR, right heel into the DBS sloper on the lip, roll over to small crimp that you use as an intermediate on DBS with your right hand, then to big crimpy rail on DWR and finish as usual.

haz

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#2 Re: Dolphin Belly Slap, Demon Wall Roof Link
February 06, 2012, 08:58:07 pm
Awesome thats great. Didn't get the bit with match toe hooks though, I get the right toe hook bit, is the left under the roof toe hooking the hold for hot dog fromage? Thanks

Stubbs

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#3 Re: Dolphin Belly Slap, Demon Wall Roof Link
February 06, 2012, 10:33:27 pm
Just next to your right foot, i.e both in the scoop that your heel goes in for DBS

 

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