[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Not be a complete punter in Spain next week, F7c+ 2012, F8a 2013..... Sub-goal: Find an ace 7B to do this season and tick some great looking 7A's that I've spotted recently.

M: 7 mile road run - Working off lurgy and weight control.
T: Busy nowt.
W: Busy nowt.
T: Half yellow circuit and hard AeroCap/PE @ The Works - 8 x 30 move 6cish @ 3 mins rest.... Boxed!
F: Boulder @ Froggatt - Aimed to go do Glass Slipper but stopped at Hairpin to warmup as it was in the sun and got sidetracked doing problems up to 6Cish (Vanishing point etc..), went and looked at Glass Slipper - Looks ace! Must go do this soon.
S: Boulder @ The Works - General mileage session and a few steady yellows.
S: Boy comes down with hideous fever based lurgy.... by 2pm I've got it too.... by 6 so has mrs DD...... Touchwood little miss 3 months don't come down with it...Booooooo!

The opposite of last week - Started good, ended shit... Good to get the lurgy out of the way before Spain..... but booo.... Lurgy sucks! Finger's still behaving (i.e. not getting any worse) tho.

This week: Recover before Thursday.

:D

[biscuit]

After moving to Spain and getting lots of mileage in it's now time to push the boat out and i have got myself a full on 16 week periodised schedule ( using what i understand of the Randall/Binney method ) to help me get 7b+ redpoint so i figured it's time i joined here too.

This is a report of week 2 of 16.

last weeks goals:

2x aerocap - done
1x ancap - failed - rainy and freezing weather/daylight hours and only being able to climb outdoors was to blame
2x hangs - done

VSTG - 1 week time limit

Average body fat under 13.3% This week average 13.8%

2 x aerocap
1 x ancap
1 routes day - 7a+ needed and try 7a on-sight
Dropped planned fingerboarding (x2) due to left middle tweak. Very minor but paranoid due to previous injuries. made some good gains recently and don't want to lose them.

STG - 6 weeks

on-sight 7a
complete 7b pyramid

7b - 0 of 1
7a+ - 1 of 2
7a - 7 of 4
6c+ - 5 of 8

MTG - 15 weeks time limit

11% body fat
7b+ pyramid

LTG

7c in 2012

It's hard to stick to periodised schedules. Going back to UK for a few days this week so i have got super organised and sorted a timetable out with Mrs Bisuit to make sure i get it all done.

20/10's are the aero cap exercise of choice at the minute. Feels really right for training pump recovery and feels like you're working something rather than endless traversing.

My level at the moment is 7a's are being done second go after an on-sight attempt. 6c on-sight is steady away and the 7a+ i did went 2nd go after a proper bolt to bolt. The 7a's have been all different types so i am happy i am consolidated at this grade for RP.  I have been on 1 7b a few weeks ago and it felt hard but very do able with a bit of time.

[shark]

After moving to Spain

  Nice. Where you move to? Is it close to the crags? Can we all come and stay ?

[biscuit]

After moving to Spain

  Nice. Where you move to? Is it close to the crags? Can we all come and stay ?

Oh nowhere special.

Just over an hour to El Chorro.
Half an hour to Loja.
Half an hour to Archidona.
Oh and half an hour to Chilam Balam cave and less to a gazillion other un-polished awesome, none documented, crags and all 40 mins from Malaga airport.
My local crag is this one:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9243

I've timed it in the car and it takes 6 minutes.

You don't seem to have a smug bastard smiley - get one but i'll make do with this for now 

Seriously though, what i have always been missing is time on rock. My wife and i used to work loads and with family etc. my climbing wasn't happening. Imagine how happy i was when she agreed to move to Spain. I now get out a couple of times a week on a rope and the time on real rock that i've always been missing is constant and things are finally happening. I am setting goals that actually seem realistic, not worrying about blowing a 7a on-sight because there's loads more quality lines to go at, and a decent bottle of Rioja can be had for 3 euro, a quadruple gin is the same price and a beer is 1 euro.

We're having the cellar converted into another bedroom. Once thats done we've got room for people to come and have their own space. My wife seems to think it's going to be an office, i think it's an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

[shark]

Just over an hour to El Chorro.
Half an hour to Loja.
Half an hour to Archidona.
Oh and half an hour to Chilam Balam cave and less to a gazillion other un-polished awesome, none documented, crags and all 40 mins from Malaga airport.
My local crag is this one:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9243

I've timed it in the car and it takes 6 minutes.

Screw  the periodised training programme - you just need to get your arse to the crag 5 days a week

[AJM]

We're having the cellar converted into another bedroom. Once thats done we've got room for people to come and have their own space. My wife seems to think it's going to be an office, i think it's an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

You realise that that invite is now immortalised on the Internet don't you 

[iain]

an opportunity to invite people over who can put the clips in for me on harder routes 

You realise that that invite is now immortalised on the Internet don't you 

Hello Biscuit, I own a clipstick   

[Fiend]

UKB training week @ Biscuit's new crib 

[TobyD]

Seepage level was pretty much identical to Friday.

There appears to be no 'green with jealousy' smiley to use. I want to go to the proper Cove.

M 30th job interview in Hull, followed by a few hours on the wave, remembering how good it is.
T 31st couple of hours at the Foundry bouldering, loong drive to the south west
W 1st pixies / gully wall session
T 2nd 40 minute run
F 3rd bouldering at quay
S 4th felt shocking; nowt.
S 5th Ansteys; few goes on La Creme, crux move static 5 or so times, but still unable to link through the sequence 

[abarro81]

I want to go to the proper Cove.

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

[Three Nine]

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

[shark]

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

Is there a common thread here? Ah yes I remember - you both suck at Malham

Fancy working your weaknesses on Friday afternoon ?

[TobyD]

You're on crack, Anstey's is way better than Malham!

Yes, I hope the Shire smites you for talking such 

Is there a common thread here? Ah yes I remember - you both suck at Malham

Yes, and the thread is common to me in the other direction; Malham PB: ticked an 8b and 8a in an afternoon; Ansteys PB 7b+.... I really, really suck there (it is still good, but i love to bitch about it)
Ain't no way it's better than Malham though.