[Krank]

I am planning a 9 day trip to yorkshire at the end of march and i have no idea where to go.

So far i only have Caley and the Almscliffe on my list so i am about 4/5 crags short of filling my 9 days.

Anybody have any suggestions of must visit crags? The only things i dont like are dirty little holds, anything else is good.

A grade range of 6c-7b would be grand.

cheers

[SA Chris]

Aren't pebbles dirty and little?

Where you basing yourself?

top of my head the obvious ones to include are;

Earl

Brimham

Slipstones (bit of a drive if you are based Leedsish)

Barden Fell Crags - Lord's & Simon's Seats - a longish walk, alpine start needed.

[cofe]

Earl is a no brainer. It's so good. Crookrise should be worth a hit too.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, 2 sides of a coin depending on weather / conditions.

[Vitamin K]

Widdop should be on your itinerary - a good spread of grades and a pretty extensive circuit if you look beyond the obvious boulders nearest to the reservoir.

[tommytwotone]

If you fancy getting off the beaten track a touch then Snowden and Guisecliff are certainly worth a visit - just make sure you've got a couple of pads and a spotter for the latter!

[Krank]

cheers cofe its now on the list

SA Chris- pebbles are in deed dirty but its mainly little crimps i hate, they hurt my joints . im not based anywhere yet, i will be driving up from leek and trying to find a centralish campsite to base myself.

Vitamin K- widdop is now on the list, cheers

tommytwotone- I will be on my tod, so a spotter isnt an optionn but i will keep them in mind for my next visit.

Cheers for the suggestions so far.

[ShortRound]

Brimham.

Perfect warm up area next to the carpark with some good non-warm up problems like the pommel (V4/5) and the Anchor (V7). Then, without getting too lost, you can try and find:
Whisky Galore (V6)
Acme Wall (V3)
The grouch (V6 and three stars)
Fantasy League (V7)

and pop out to the outlying bits to do:
Elwood P Dowd (V6)
Dolphin nose (V4)
Crimpy Wall (V8)

Loads and loads to go at, especially if it's windy elsewhere as there is plenty of shelter. If you don't like giving cash to the national trust there is another sneaky car park you can use further up the road which is closer to the outlying stuff. I'd advise taking a photo guidebook with you as it can be a bit of a maze to the un-initiated.

Almscliff is an absolute must if you've not been before. Take wellies and a tarp for your mat if it's rained recently and you want to have a go at demon wall roof/dolphon belly slap.

[turnipturned]

A good list

Ilkey: Ringpeice, Classic Dyno
Brimham: Pair in a cubicle, Rachel's box, Black chipper, Titfield Thunderbolt, Crimpy wall
Whitehouses: Fit punters roof, Bush Bully, Raegh Omar, under rumsfield
Caley: Crystal method, Forklighting crack, new jersulum
Almscliff: Demon wall roof, Dolphin belly slap, underhand, flying arete

Get to Rylstone, Crookrise, Fairy Chests amazing location, but a lotta snow up that way atm.

Have fun.

[Bonjoy]

In all likelyhood the weather will decide where you should go. A good proportion of the crags up there are either shady and slow drying, and/or high on the moors and exposed to the weather. So if you do get suitable conditions you’d be wise to use them and get to places like Rylstone, Simon/Lord’s Seat (to a lesser extent Caley, Earl, Crookrise and Slipstones). Save places like Almscliff, Brimham, Whitehouses (to a lesser extent Ilkley, Widdop, Bridestones) for the inevitable iffy days.
If I had to suggest a five must visits I say Earl, Caley, Brimham, Slipstones and Crookrise in that order. Yes Almscliff is not on that list, basically it is amazing but if you visit Yorks grit a few times I can guarantee you will end up there loads as it is very much the primary fallback option if the weather goes bad. It would be like going on holiday to Sheffield and planning a visit to the Works, pointless as you’ll almost certainly end up there anyway.
The area is pretty spread out and some of the drives take a long while due to passing through a lot of towns so aim for somewhere central maybe Ilkley or Skipton.

[dave]

Nobody has mentioned the 6 best crags in yorkshire. Burbage north/south/west, higgar, millstone and secret garden.

[granticus]

Stayed in Skipton in the summer for a week and managed to get some bouldering in (there's a thread on here somewhere).  http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18259.msg324554.html#msg324554
Which may be useful.  I found the Bridestones to be most acceptable (apart from damaged rock here and there).

[tomtom]

Bonjoy is right, in that weather will dictate what you do... Luckily Leeds has three walls to check out so add The Depot, Citibloc and the Leeds wall to your tally

Almscliff is the fastest drying - easy access - but can be a little bit of an aquired taste.
Caley is great - but can take a little while to dry and that time of year there may be green-nes issues in a few places..
I dont get on with Ilkley - so wouldnt reccomend it -except its very close to a touristy car park with a tea hut. Which also means you get gawped at as well..

Slipstones is superb - but its a way north and probably c.1 hour from Cliff/Otley area.. If there is a mint looking day - go. Its a superb spot and the rock is fantastic. Theres also a fair chance you'll bump into Willackers still working Cypher

Crookrise is beautiful but a fairly long walk in - and Bridestones will be quite a way west from the Otley/Leeds area (it depends where you're staying etc..)...

If it rains.. (it will) and you're in the cliff/caley area go to the Otley cafe... I challenge you to eat £5 worth of food (including the free bread and butter...)

[Krank]

thanks very much everyone, plenty of good info for my trip, esp. the weather stuff, even though i wont need it as it isnt going to rain.

I will start scouring through my guide to make a tick list.

Is the new 2 part yorkshire grit guide worth buying? i have the old one but if the new one is good i will look at getting them.

tomtom, i will take that challenge, how much food can there be for £5

[SA Chris]

Otley caff - where all good bouldering days start!

Slipstones is very quick drying (apart from a stubborn puddle and seep down the middle of Ripper!) But topouts can sometimes stay damp when the front of the crag is dry (especially with low winter sun) so beware when topping out on some of the slopey tops, especially the highballs / solos on the left. I very nearly came acropper topping out of Beldin (or one of the HVSs on that bit!). The further left you go on the crag the more it goes from bouldering to routes.

How well does Grimer's Guide cover the bits mentioned? It's the one bit I've not really looked at in great detail as I know it fairly well.

[tomtom]

tomtom, i will take that challenge, how much food can there be for £5

Well.... it means you have to have a main course (that all top out at about £3) a pudding (may be £1:10 now, but were 80p) and something else.. which could mean a bacon sarnie at £1:20/30...

So lets say you went for Lasagne and Chips, Spotted dick and Custard and a Sausage Sandwich... should push you over the £5 barrier.. but I've never made it through the main course and desert combo let alone the extra.. AND you have to eat the two slices of bread and butter you get.

If you're feeling less glutonous, the 'new' breakfast is worth a try. Bacon, two eggs, sausage, black pudding, tomotoes, Beans, Spam fritter (yeh!) and chips. Oh and bread and butter... for £3... You used to get a pint of tea free with the meals too, but in these times of austerity...

Its a cyclists fave as well..

[moose]

A good list
Caley: Crystal method, Forklighting crack, new jersulum
Have fun.

One try at FLC would be enough to send me home in disgust!  For me, it's up there with Banana Finger Direct in the list of unpleasant "classics"!  Incidentally, by Crystal Method do you mean the V7 slap from the greasy pocket (the version in the old AC Duff guide) or the harder problem on the buttress to the right? 

Anyway, to augment that list, I'd recommend the crag area for a quick hit of classic Caley: Mr Smooth, The Horn problems, The Pinch, Pinetree / Yule Log Arete, Flapjack Traverse, Two Squirrels.  Maybe return to the roadside for a try at Secret Seventh, Ben's Groove etc.

[tomtom]

yup - FLC is not a good introduction to Caleys finest IMHO...
Otley wall...?

[SA Chris]

+1 -  Forked Log Crack.

[Jim]

I'd say secret seventh was very hard and conditionsy.
I really liked doing the not my stile arete at the roadside great problem.

Definately go to earl, slipstones and caley, 3 of the best crags in the country, also bridestone is very good but ruined by overuse.
I personally don't get on well with ilkley and think the problem concentration at brimham is pretty low although there are some good probs at both these venues.
Also with regards to almscliff, as everyone has said, its good but don't plan on going there because at some point you'll probably be forced there anyway due to the weather.

[SA Chris]

It's the bouldering equivalent of Tremadog.

[Krank]

thanks again everyone, that lot should keep me good and busy.

now im off to a greasy spoon for some propa training.

[Richie Crouch]

Hope you have a good trip over to yorks Krank. I reckon caley, earl and brimham are the better ones I have been too and crookrise was good too for the grade spread you mentioned.

I didn't realise otley cafe had such a cheap deal on food. A trip to Yorkshire is on the cards when I get back, the food challenge will get smashed! Let us know how you fare with it

[tomtom]

the food challenge will get smashed! Let us know how you fare with it

no cheating by making up your £5 with a couple of kitkats... tsk tsk...

[Dolly]

Don't want to stray too far O.T. but The Cheerful Chilli in Otley is meant to be excellent as well - I haven't been, but someone at work went there on a Saturday evening and said it was great food and cheap.

http://thecheerfulchilli.co.uk/