[205Chris]

Not after specific beta as such but more some obsessive style questions about a few problems I looked at today and this seemed like the best place to put it.

Chapel of Rest - Does this top out to the left or right. A leftwards top out looked possible (but very green) or do you traverse rightwards and finish as per Wish?

Percy's Start - I'm guessing this isn't a sitter but there seemed to various options for pulling on. Two very low crimps (i.e. footholds but they did have chalk on), two sidepull / gaston things and a sloping crimp at about head height. Even pulling on with just the sloping crimp and rocking to the break felt about 6c+. Is there an official start for this?

Spike J (aka Pink Lady jump start). I presume this is a jump start with the right hand on the arete rather than a direct jump off the floor with both hands to the sloping lip?

I know these questions probably sounds like a case of over the top OCD but I just want to check whether or nor I've got the tick for some of the stuff I did today before getting my biro out given that I don't want any tippex in my shiny new book.

Cheers.

[nai]

Chapel of Rest - Does this top out to the left or right. A leftwards top out looked possible (but very green) or do you traverse rightwards and finish as per Wish?

Not a definitive answer but the definitive guide states "shuffle right to top out and crawl off right."

Percy's Start is described as "a tricky one-mover low start up the diagonal ripple", if that helps....

[205Chris]

Cheers Ian. That might explain CoR but I'm still confused by Percy's start. Hopefully the man himself might be along to shed some light on it.

[cofe]

Spike J was done with RH arête and jumping to lip. Can't picture jumping double handed but I can't see the problem with that.

[205Chris]

Spike J was done with RH arête and jumping to lip.

Good knowledge, cheers Cofe. That's how I ended up doing it, a cool move. Felt pretty steady for 7a+ hence the question but I guess it's quite morpho. Now to get good enough for the standing start.

[cofe]

Yeah really cool. I remember at the time we talked about it being a 'one pad' problem and a bit morpho. I guess Dave's standing and sit starts have sorted that out long term. It's quite butch to pull on from standing eh?!

[Andy B]

Percy's Start, starts crouching off the two sidepulls.

[205Chris]

Yeah really cool. I remember at the time we talked about it being a 'one pad' problem and a bit morpho. I guess Dave's standing and sit starts have sorted that out long term. It's quite butch to pull on from standing eh?!

Aye, just a bit!! Only dropped in at the end of the day, keen to go back though.

Percy's Start, starts crouching off the two sidepulls.

Cheers Andy, that solves that one. Back around it is then. What's the beta that makes this 6c+? Felt hard enough just from the slopey crimp 

[Andy B]

Percy's Start, starts crouching off the two sidepulls.

Cheers Andy, that solves that one. Back around it is then. What's the beta that makes this 6c+? Felt hard enough just from the slopey crimp 

I remember it being pretty basic, just quite a strenuous stab (only one foot on maybe?) into easier ground. I finished up Wish as stepping off in the middle seemed a bit weird to me. Maybe Percy will be along in a bit, to say he originally started higher, but that's where I started and it felt in the right ballpark at 7bish for the full thing into Wish.

[Bonjoy]

I did Percy's start (a couple of weeks ago) from one hand on diagonal and one on horizontal crimp. No idea if that's the 'official' start but seemed plenty hard enough for 6c+! Plant feet front on on two best bits of low break and stab for break with RH.

Spike J is a hard one to grade as the difficulty depends entirely on how tall you are and what mat thickness you start off. I had a few goes at the double jump to the lip further left, it will go but is a fair bit harder.   

[Nan]

Any idea what the right arete of the wish block is? It looked like it had been done. Using the crack for percys start with a heel toe jam made the start feel ok but still only did it from the crimp. Lower it all seems to get a bit vague

[hoodmonkey]

New guide shows a rightward topout for Chapel of Rest, however, I was on it about two weeks ago and found the top to be absolutely filthy!!!