Quote from: duncan on August 10, 2011, 12:47:03 pmOther long route ideas: If you have fixed anchors ... Use an adjustable leash such as a Purcell Prusik in 6mm or 7mm cord: cheaper and easier to adjust than a daisy chain and you can use the cord as emergency abseil sling. Setting up a comfortably adjusted belay should take about 15 seconds with this combination.I'm interested: what do you see as the advantage of using a purcell prusik (or other cow's tail style system) over just clove hitching in with the climbing rope(s)?
Other long route ideas: If you have fixed anchors ... Use an adjustable leash such as a Purcell Prusik in 6mm or 7mm cord: cheaper and easier to adjust than a daisy chain and you can use the cord as emergency abseil sling. Setting up a comfortably adjusted belay should take about 15 seconds with this combination.
I'm interested: what do you see as the advantage of using a purcell prusik (or other cow's tail style system) over just clove hitching in with the climbing rope(s)?
Quote from: Muenchener on August 16, 2011, 12:30:52 pmI'm interested: what do you see as the advantage of using a purcell prusik (or other cow's tail style system) over just clove hitching in with the climbing rope(s)?I’ve only recently started using them. I’d climbed with American climbers who were keen on their “personal anchor systems” and had been a bit doubtful but a trip to the Dolomites convinced me they have some merit on multi-pitch routes with fixed anchors, hanging belays and abseil descents. You need something to clip anchors when abseiling and it is useful to be able to quickly and easily clip in at a hanging belay when handing over gear etc. if you are switching leads. You could just use a sling but a PP is adjustable and a load limiter, a dyneema sling is probably best avoided. The advantages of an adjustable cows-tail over a rope are speed and adjustability. A cow's tail is very quick to set up and take down. A clove hitch can be a little hard to undo if you have been hanging from it for half an hour. A PP is fairly easy to adjust under load. These are niceties not crucial advantages. The disadvantages are the lack of range (not a problem with a hanging belay), that it is something else to go wrong (a valid point), and that it’s another bit of kit to carry and get in the way (but you will need something for the abseil).
Other long route ideas: If you have fixed anchors, use an guide belay device so the leader can drink, eat, change clothes etc. as s/he is belaying.
Has no one has mentioned these?
has anybody got experience of Vibram finger type shoes for this use (I have to say they make me feel silly just looking)?
If I couldn't trust myself not to unexpectedly climb above the anchors and then fall off, I'd use a tied rope cowstail - lower impact force and has a far more respectable ultimate breaking strain.
(and not as daft as the metolius offering, where the hell does this go when not in use?).
it looks a lot better than the daisy I've used in the past (that was too short some of the time, and too long others
goes from belay loop under nuts/cam on your thigh to clip onto a loop at the back.
from belay loop under nuts/cock to clip onto a loop at the back.