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tip splitters - the definitive list (Read 10275 times)

dave

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tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 09:52:23 am
OK then, whats the problems you 've split tips on, or at least the most/worst splits in the UK? lets see if theres any trends?

some of my most splitting problems (repeat offenders) are:
  • t crack
  • blind date
  • jason's undercling
  • not to be taken away

Adam Lincoln

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#1 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 09:55:26 am
You will probably find this change but ive never split a tip. Now, the boy Hurley reckons i dont try hard enough...  :roll:  Ive worn through my skin, but never to the actual point of bleeding. Ive given myself more knuckle flappers than i care to remember (Ahh, theres a thread)

Good skin? Or not trying hard enough?

dave

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#2 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 09:58:36 am
you've never split a tip? man you've never lived. i think wearing through to the red counts as a split though. I've split a tip more times than you've had hot dinners then. I've been out climbing with 5 taped splits. Cofe has split the same tip every week this year so far i think! theres certainly problems i've never walked away from without a split......t-crack springs to mind.

squeek

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#3 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 10:19:40 am
After a session once at widdop, 9 of my ten fingers were bleeding because of split tips, and both my hands were in the claw position.  Main culprit of this was Pool traverse.  I had to go out that night with my finger tips bandaged  or else I could hold a pint without it hurting!

neil@canaryclimbs

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#4 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 10:33:41 am
hey adam what was my tip like after that new proble at burbage south



it was pissing with blood, the pebble pierced my tip, couldnt climb for a week

Adam Lincoln

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#5 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 10:36:17 am
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
hey adam what was my tip like after that new proble at burbage south
it was pissing with blood, the pebble pierced my tip, couldnt climb for a week


Aye! Looked a bit painful  :?

a dense loner

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#6 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:21:44 am
is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?

Doylo

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#7 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:29:27 am
My Welsh nominee is the Sting at the Cromlechs, horrible.

neil@canaryclimbs

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#8 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:38:14 am
Quote from: "a dense loner"
is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?




yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade

dave

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#9 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:39:40 am
i think scouse and jimbo might have been on this.

Adam Lincoln

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#10 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:52:42 am
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
Quote from: "a dense loner"
is this a new prob at burb south or new for u? if it's a new prob where is it?




yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade


Aye, standing start is about V6/7, but traversing in from left would be hard. (V9?) Not done it yet so...

Both variations probably done before

T.H.

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#11 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 01:12:47 pm
Anything on Dartmoor.

dave

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#12 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 03:44:28 pm
for completness heres a list of all the UK problems i have distinct memories of splitting a tip on - if anyone knows any i've missed then post up.

t crack, blind date, jason's undercling, not to be taken away, blind fig, that sloper thing at remergence, rocket man, submergence, that roof thing right of jasons, that B6 thing at Burbage bridge, hampers hang, that pebble thing left of hampers, the storm, spring voyage, buckstone dyno, blockbuster, lurcher direct, that B5 traverse at clifftop, everything at the newstones, sean's (cragx), andy browns wall, sloping beauty, attitude inspector, that B5 thing at trackside, zippy's traverse, ape drape, help the aged, that B7 arete at higgar......and many more!

 :8)

Jim

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#13 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 03:48:33 pm
don't think I've ever split a tip, only wear through my skin or occasionaly puncture a finger or two. That b7 thing at cratcliff middle always a good one to finish you off when you've got thin skin. Been on there with 8 taped tips :lol:

a dense loner

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#14 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 04:33:07 pm
Quote
yes south, its right of the nock, sit start and traverse to rib righwards then top out (hard) or standing start on right at about B7?????? dont really know as I split my tip ask adam for grade

how far right, can't picture it.
if u stand in front of knock n look at the gully. theres a nice rib on right. no doubt its dirty again but if cleaned is an awesome move if u just use arete n not big hold just round side. sit start, left hand up to arete, jug wi right. nice moves.
did traverse under knock a couple of years ago. 2 monos in roof underneath knock, rising traverse left up line of slopes to finish in break at rons thing. good moves, if utterly pointless.  :lol:

cofe

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#15 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 08:20:43 pm
only dave could split a tip on limecrime

i've split my left middle finger every weekend since xmas including tearing my hand totally 2 or 3 times on hurricane.

split my first tip on red baron at shitley glen - it was the time i did it though so who cares :D

tore the entire tip off on NTBTA once - yowser.

can't think of any real main offenders - depends how hard i'm trying on something that's too hard for me  :silly:

clm

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#16 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 09:53:12 pm
Rpipped the whole end off my finger from about 1cm down right roud to the nail.  Had to chew the huge flap off and it pissed blood all the way home.  Coulndnt climb for weeks.  It was the finger on the bottom of a stack on talk to me martin. :shock:

dave

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#17 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:54:58 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"

how far right, can't picture it.

i think its the thing 1cm left of the knock in this photo:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331

dave

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#18 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 04, 2004, 11:56:53 pm
Quote from: "cofe"
only dave could split a tip on limecrime


I've got to admit that was a weird one - particularly as it was on friendly holds.

I'm proud to say that Cofe had never split a tip 'till he started climbing with me. :D

cofe

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#19 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:45:28 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "cofe"
only dave could split a tip on limecrime


I've got to admit that was a weird one - particularly as it was on friendly holds.

I'm proud to say that Cofe had never split a tip 'till he started climbing with me. :D


now i bleed like a muthfucka

cofe

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#20 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:46:21 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "a dense loner"

how far right, can't picture it.

i think its the thing 1cm left of the knock in this photo:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331


er, i think it's 1cm right innit? unless you're on about parthian....?

dave

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#21 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:49:36 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "a dense loner"

how far right, can't picture it.

i think its the thing 1cm right of the knock in this photo:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331


cheers i've changed it now.

Bonjoy

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#22 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:50:02 am
I rarely get split tips, but often get splits on the bends of the first joint. For quick healing is taping to keep the skin clean and supple best, or leaving untaped so the cut can breath best?

Adam Lincoln

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#23 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:55:01 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "a dense loner"

how far right, can't picture it.

i think its the thing 1cm right of the knock in this photo:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=331


cheers i've changed it now.


Aye, it starts on the arete and climbs the vague crease/overlap. Cool problem

dave

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#24 tip splitters - the definitive list
March 05, 2004, 09:55:29 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I rarely get split tips, but often get splits on the bends of the first joint. For quick healing is taping to keep the skin clean and supple best, or leaving untaped so the cut can breath best?


i'm on the borderline of getting one of them at the mo (from crimping angular shit on me woody) never had one before. I think you're oging to get it where the skin gets thick and dry. I'm trying to fight it off by moisturising it loads (climb on and cocoa butter) and sanding any bulky bits. touch wood its getting better.

I got a mate Rob who used to get these all the time whenever he climbed at the berghaus wall cos its all square cut edges and crimps.

 

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