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Arete Left of Razor Roof (Read 2555 times)

tallsop

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Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 10, 2011, 09:08:49 pm
Had three, maybe 4 sessions on this and am still scratching my head, anybody got any hints please? im getting a left heel toe up high, right hand on a big slopey pinch on the lip of the roof and my right hand on the crimp underneath, then rocking, pulling, reaching, slipping and landing on my head....... :chair: K O !!!

Steve R

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#1 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 10, 2011, 10:07:22 pm
you should use your left hand on something.  I don't think the move's that much harder just putting your toe on the jugs rather than using the scary heel-toe - worth considering if you're by yourself.  I dare say it's a good deal easier when it's not summer.  I reckon it's better to start matched on the jugs at the back then come out to the lip sloper, etc. Don't think there are any tricks on this one, it's just a hard lock to get the decent high bit of the left hand sidepull on the arete.

Fiend

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#2 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 10, 2011, 11:56:44 pm
Nails problem.

lagerstarfish

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#3 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 11, 2011, 06:28:20 am
like this?


tallsop

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#4 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 11, 2011, 08:58:45 am
nice one! so basically crush that slopey pinch like a mo-fo and layback off the slopers? think its just a case of making minor adjustments and trying a bit harder!

Cheers!!!!

boulderingbacon

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#5 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 11, 2011, 02:25:06 pm
i did that from a sit start, do you not have to? i know it doesn't really add any difficulty but just seemed natural to start as low as possible.

tallsop

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#6 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 12, 2011, 02:39:13 pm
seems more logical to start at the jugs to me, horses for courses i guess...

andy_e

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#7 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 22, 2011, 11:36:40 pm
Yeah, back around lagers.

lagerstarfish

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#8 Re: Arete Left of Razor Roof
June 23, 2011, 11:14:12 am
not my video

I just found it on peakbouldering.info and posted it because it might be of use here

 

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