[JamieG]

Just wanted a find out if anyone else had done/tried this problem. I climbed it before the new guide came out and thought it pretty desperate at 7a, but have noticed it has gone in the new guide at 6b+ and wondered if i'd totally schooled the beta. Or is this a wee typo?   

I start with a right hand on a small gaston, left had undercutting on a reasonable hold. Pull on, crossover with right hand to pinch the big sloper. Foot jiggery pockery then a real crux move to move left hand from the undercut to the high postive gaston/crimp. More foot fiddling and then dyno/chuck to the left arete. Avoid dab and top out.

I've also done the right hand variation, which was originally 7b on the online topo. Which is a wee bit harder but maybe not a whole extra grade.

Both are absolutely quality lines and great climbing. I just think people will get a massive shock if they go there and try the only sequence i could find and expect a 6b+.

Any thoughts or alternative beta?

[Steamboat Stello]

Been for a look but not tried it. If this is one of the (many!) things with the bad landing then is it possible that fear of falling makes it seem tougher than it really is? Just a thought?

If this is the Jamie I think it is I'd be keen to come and have a crack at this prob at some point if you fancy a return. In fact, how about this very evening or maybe wednesday!? I'll message you anyway.

[JamieG]

Haha, I don't know if i'm the Jamie or not. Possibly. I was thinking of heading up there on tuesday, as i'm still too goosed from the weekend for any climbing today. The weather forecast, however, looks a bit suspicious. So i guess it is a waiting game.

The landing on Nikita is totally fine. In fact it could do with being a bit lower to avoid dabbing on the last move. The problem has quite a specific starting position, which isn't so clear in the new guide, so possibly you can start on slightly different holds and avoid the desperate crux move. I'm not sure.

[cofe]

when we checked it for the guide we couldn't find a way of doing it at 7a, even starting and climbing as Mike described in his topo. Opinions at the time varied between 6b-6c. The undercut and gaston seemed the best start anyway, although the rules aren't necessary. good effort doing the repeated walk-in! 

[JamieG]

Hmmm . . . Cheers for the info cofe, i'll go back and reassess the beta. It is quite possible I have just totally messed it up and made it much harder for myself than necessary. The walk-in and scramble over scree is all part of the tintwhistle charm.

Absolutely top work on the guide as a whole. Even my non-climbing work buddies have commented on the photos and general lay-out with suitable admiration. And yes it is sitting on my deck for those rest and relaxation points that occur every half an hour or so . . . 

[cofe]

you are trying it in June too...! I think when you do that first move off the undercut you can go again to the next hold up as a sort of guppy, then left to the arete for Nikita, or match the sort of guppy for the RH variant. Whereas Mike's topo suggested you had to hang the sloper underneath first. Top effort by Mike documenting all this stuff I thought. Have you done Dream Chaser? We thought that was great.

[JamieG]

I think i see what you mean. Taking the higher good hold with your right hand whilst still undercutting the good starting hold with left?  I actually did the problem back in march sometime. I haven't tried Dream Chaser, but cheers for the heads up, I'll definitely check it out. I also thought deforestation and the porthole problem were good.

Actually i think tintwhistle is a really good little venue. Much kudos to Mike for putting the effort in. It is a perfect evening venue for me on these long summer nights. I was getting a touch tired of wimberry.

[JamieG]

Had a wee evening session up at tintwhistle last night. Conditions were actually pretty good. Repeated nikita and nikita rh, but still can't work out this easier 6b+ sequence, but i guess that is bouldering sometimes. It feels around 7a to me, certainly if you pull on down and right, with you right hand gastoning the first left hand hold on leon and your left hand in the good undercut. First couple moves are certainly the crux. Climbed the porthole problem (6c+) and deforestation (7a) for comparative purposes and i find both easier. But then they are maybe more my style.

Ha ha, the joys of bouldering and grading. Nevertheless they are all quality problems at a quality little venue.