I found that 4x4s on V3 and getting to the point of doing v4 in a couple of goes (indoors) pushed me nicely from 6b+ to 7a, what sort of level should I be looking for to have a decent go at doing a mid-length steep 7b? Shouldn't be too much trouble to push to 4x4s on V4 but I'm aware that a summer of trad makes for a weak climber haha. Don't tend to train on indoor routes much but willing to give it a blast if its going to really help.
Quote from: csurfleet on April 05, 2011, 09:24:42 amI found that 4x4s on V3 and getting to the point of doing v4 in a couple of goes (indoors) pushed me nicely from 6b+ to 7a, what sort of level should I be looking for to have a decent go at doing a mid-length steep 7b? Shouldn't be too much trouble to push to 4x4s on V4 but I'm aware that a summer of trad makes for a weak climber haha. Don't tend to train on indoor routes much but willing to give it a blast if its going to really help.I think you are making a bit of an assumption that what bouldering training you did pushed you from 6b+ to 7a, and that similar but harder boulder training will yield further results. What you need to do is have a look at where your weaknesses lie and work on them. No good if you can do hard boulder problem cruxes several times in a row if you are on an endurance or power endurance route, and there's nothing in the tank. Training on routes for doing routes seems like a logical approach to me.
dont sell short some pure power gains too, although you will mostly be want power endurance and endurance there will be some routes that require a fair bit of power.
7a onsight abroad does not 7a onsight in the UK make.
Quote from: ksjs on April 06, 2011, 09:06:24 am7a onsight abroad does not 7a onsight in the UK make.Is that just that UK grade are old-skool and tough, or is it a style thing - confusing sea of minging crimps vs. clear moves on obvious holds?
Funnily enough, I was looking at Anack Sunamun in the guide last night and figured it would be a good one to go at.
I also reckon it's easier to acquire stamina (ideal for long limestone routes with good holds) than it is technique and power.
Quote from: Muenchener on April 06, 2011, 10:38:39 amQuote from: ksjs on April 06, 2011, 09:06:24 am7a onsight abroad does not 7a onsight in the UK make.Is that just that UK grade are old-skool and tough, or is it a style thing - confusing sea of minging crimps vs. clear moves on obvious holds?I think UK grades feel harder because of a mix of the above i.e. harder to read, often more technical and I think there is an historic tendency to undergrade. ... I'd be very interested to see a survey of people's (who've climbed a decent amount in Europe and the UK) best onsight grades