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North Wales - bouldering reccomendations purrrlease? (Read 8112 times)

granticus

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Avoiding all royal wedding related guff by heading to N. Wales for a stag do that weekend.  After all this time I've still never been there (to boulder)   :sorry:

Seeking the knowledge of those in the know..  Will be staying near Snowdon..  So where should I be heading for and what should be on the hit list (upto 7b/ V8ish)?

(Prefer bouldering venues that are quieter and have beautiful scenery/surroundings if that helps....)



ziggytang

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I would recommend getting hold of the north Wales bouldering guide if V12 have any copies left. Also check out the north Wales bouldering website as there is plenty of information and a 7's & 8's tick-list. If your staying in snowdon there's plenty to do on the pass. There's the roadside boulders, jerrys, utopia, wavelength, the barrell. Also if you head over to the ogwen valley Sheep Pen is well worth a visit. It's usually quiet up there but the problems and views are cracking. There's plenty of other areas in the ogwen as well. But as I said, well worth getting the guide if you can get hold of a copy.

Pantontino

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Ziggytang's recs are spot on; quality venues in beautiful places, and most probably very quiet. Just remember that it can be hard to get parked in the Pass on a weekend. After about 3 o'oclock the lay-bys tend to free up as the early bird hill walkers return from Pen y Pass.

Here's the link to the 7 + 8s list for the Pass - anything that gets two or three stars is worth making a specific journey for.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/members/Llanberis%20Pass%207+8s%20Version%205.pdf

Obviously with more modern stuff like NASA (which is brilliant) you'll have to search on NWB.com.

Here, I've done it for you:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=296




granticus

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I know a friend who's coming has the guide, so was really looking for reccomendations of the extra special stuff that we should check out.

Quote
Also if you head over to the ogwen valley Sheep Pen is well worth a visit. It's usually quiet up there but the problems and views are cracking
   8)  Sounds perfek.
Quote
Just remember that it can be hard to get parked in the Pass on a weekend. After about 3 o'oclock the lay-bys tend to free up as the early bird hill walkers return from Pen y Pass.
Here's the link to the 7 + 8s list for the Pass - anything that gets two or three stars is worth making a specific journey for.

Cheers Panto... This is great beta and NASA looks ace.

Now all we need to do is hope for good weather but then it's always sunny and warm in N.Wales isn't it...


Richie Crouch

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Whatever you do, avoid panton's '3 star classic' shuffles like Mr Your on Fire Mr  ;)

Pantontino

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Whatever you do, avoid panton's '3 star classic' shuffles like Mr Your on Fire Mr  ;)

I think you'll find I was gracious enough to only give that particular masterpiece one measly star in the 7 + 8 list. And those slopers, oh how lush they were, I remember it just like it was yesterday, happy days, happy days...  :'(

Pantontino

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Now all we need to do is hope for good weather but then it's always sunny and warm in N.Wales isn't it...

...always!  8)

ziggytang

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I've never seen this NASA problem before. Looks good, will have to check it out. Hard to get an idea of how big it is from the picture but I hope it's higher than it looks.

Cheers

Richie Crouch

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If you can be arsed with a bit of a walk in you should get up to Lordy Lordy then come back down and do Boysens groove, king of drunks..etc. Utopia lefthand is very good also in that area of the pass. Maybe finish off down near the road on Fear of a Slopey planet?

ziggytang

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That's a good circuit that, utopia, pie shop, KoD, Lordy Lordy (was pleased to get it done few weeks ago), Boysens, then over to the Barrel, roadside then back to the car.

Beastio

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Avoid the Edge Problem if you can!

Doylo

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Surprised to see you on here bestio! Thought everyone on here was a nob! couldn't resist eh! :P

wintermute

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King of drunks has to be one of the best 7a's around, another vote and well worth the walk.
Would also suggest the elephantitis cave. Awesome location and brilliant 7a, 7b+ and 7c there.

Richie Crouch

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Forgot to mention on your way to Nasa get on the seam and problem 5 on the pont y cromlech slabs - both superb!

ducko

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another spot i love is the RAC boulders, theres nothing difficult there but its just a great location with a few nice lines, ideal for a warm down if your near the ogwen valley or just a bit of a chillout session, all the other good stuff has had a mention have fun!

granticus

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Cheers everyone this is exactly what I'm after.

If you can be arsed with a bit of a walk in you should get up to Lordy Lordy then come back down and do Boysens groove, king of drunks..etc. Utopia lefthand is very good also in that area of the pass. Maybe finish off down near the road on Fear of a Slopey planet?

Can definitely be arsed with a bit of a walk in, Lordy Lordy looks splendid as does King of Drunks and it looks like there is some stuff there to keep the 'beast' :strongbench: in our group happy.

Now all I need is a wizard costume and I'm all set for a stag do in N.Wales.


Beastio

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Surprised to see you on here bestio! Thought everyone on here was a nob! couldn't resist eh! :P

Beastio was just helping the geez out, not everyone is but the majority can be i suppose  :thumbsup:

Pantontino

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another spot i love is the RAC boulders, theres nothing difficult there but its just a great location with a few nice lines, ideal for a warm down if your near the ogwen valley or just a bit of a chillout session, all the other good stuff has had a mention have fun!

It can get really busy here though - if you're after a bit of peace and quiet then better to head up to Wavelength or Sheep Pen.

Pantontino

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I've never seen this NASA problem before. Looks good, will have to check it out. Hard to get an idea of how big it is from the picture but I hope it's higher than it looks.

Cheers

It's not a diddy problem at all - just the right height I'd say. The only minor drawback is the landing which can be damp. Oh, and if you're struggling on the sitter try a knee scuzz/bar.

BenF

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I've never seen this NASA problem before. Looks good, will have to check it out. Hard to get an idea of how big it is from the picture but I hope it's higher than it looks.

Cheers

It's not a diddy problem at all - just the right height I'd say. The only minor drawback is the landing which can be damp.

Top tip re: the landing... go in the winter when it's frozen (not that thats any use at the moment).  As Si says, its well damp and minging otherwise. 

granticus

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Cheers everybody, had a great weekend in N.Wales.

Day one we went to the Sheep Pen boulders, beautiful location and a great circuit.  Highlights being Dogshooter (sit-start I'll be back for you!) and the Pinch..  Nipped over to Jerry's Roof to act as cheerleaders for the  :strongbench: of the group.  Who proceeded to climb the 2nd half smoothly, then the 1st half, a brief rest and the problem was sent in a very smooth fashion(2nd session apparently).

Day two and onto the Pass - walked up to Utopia - great problem with a cool deadpoint move on the left wall!  then Wavelength - did King of the Drunks which is superb, as is the Groove,  then up to dispatch Lordy Lordy a quality line and finally down to the barrel where failing skin, light and power meant the Minimum is, amongst others, another to go back for.  Again beautiful location and lurvely boulders.

... And to finish the weekend a late start (too late!) to Grooved Arete on Tryfan, with the standard top out just as light as failing, head torch descent and thank goodness I took a jacket (it was fairly fresh up there)...

 

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