Quote from: The Aaronator on April 11, 2011, 09:47:28 pmHaving read today's posts.....I think Dead Calm is 8a (be it a soft one). Most people who reckoned it was 7c+ went left at the top and leapt for the comedy carabina and most people, myself included, who finished on the right and clipped the chain from a finishing hold thought it to be 8a (obviously the righteous path).It’s a recent addition and if most people prefer to do it by going left at the top and grabbing the belay (didn’t the FA also grab the belay, admittedly when it had an awkwardly small karabiner on it) then maybe that’s what it should be graded for.
Having read today's posts.....I think Dead Calm is 8a (be it a soft one). Most people who reckoned it was 7c+ went left at the top and leapt for the comedy carabina and most people, myself included, who finished on the right and clipped the chain from a finishing hold thought it to be 8a (obviously the righteous path).
Dead Calm is better finished by going right and clipping the belay from the big hold next to the chains, at soft 8a.
AF - Andy Farnell grades, Accurate Fucking grades...
trad_grade_safe by pratt2005, on Flickr
NAT at Malham. Thoughts with this one are that it goes in at 7c+ but mention that it was originally climbed at 8a going direct at the top without moving left into top of Obsession.
By top do you mean middle?
With all these borderline routes coming up, is it time we introduced a slash grade into guidebooks?
Also, is the reason Vogue never gets a mention becuase no one does it or because everyone who does feels happy with 7c+?
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on April 14, 2011, 11:51:05 amWith all these borderline routes coming up, is it time we introduced a slash grade into guidebooks?A thousand times No.Rodellar is testament to how split grades are pointless...go with the majority consensus.Whats wrong with the route description providing hints to whether its soft or hard for the grade. There is way too much subjectivity to grades to start doing this......
Sorry, wasn't tryingto be pedantic just wondering if I could finish up Obsession and still claim the tick
Ok, at the moment then the main ones seem to be NAT at Malham. Thoughts with this one are that it goes in at 7c+ but mention that it was originally climbed at 8a going direct at the top without moving left into top of Obsession.7c+Soft Option. I have had a few emails regarding this. People seem to think something has come off higher up since it got done originally. What are peoples thoughts on this who have done it. Grade wise?8aMain overhang. Since loss of hold some people think its harder. Again, borderline 7c+/8aFelt 8a when I did it, but apparently there is an easier sequence using some holds to the left.Toadal recall. Another borderline 7c+/8a.Been 8a since it was done 20+ years ago, no-one has mentioned a downgrade beforeWith all these borderline routes coming up, is it time we introduced a slash grade into guidebooks?