[Jim]

<prepares to be shot down in flames>
Is jumping to the second boss at the start allowed or do you have to use the first one?
Also which move is the crux?
Cheers

[dave]

i've always tried jumping to the second boss/pinch.

[Adam Lincoln]

Easy, just fold your mat over like this

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=2347

No, done it without now. Cant remember exactly which way you cup the holds, but there is a really good way to come them, which, when you look at it, you dont think you will be able to do...

Think its let hand on top pinch with thumb pointing down and right hand on lower pinch with thumb pointing down also. This makes holds feel like jugs!

[Adam Lincoln]

Also, you have to be a rat to get your fingers in the hole.

Need good topping out skills too

God, how sad am i  :roll:

[dave]

i managed to pull off the floor static on the bottom boss and the layaway (only on 1 flat mat) but still didn't do the fucking thing. also tried gastoning the layaway, but thats a dead end.

[Jim]

No, done it without now. Cant remember exactly which way you cup the holds, but there is a really good way to come them, which, when you look at it, you dont think you will be able to do...

Think its let hand on top pinch with thumb pointing down and right hand on lower pinch with thumb pointing down also. This makes holds feel like jugs!

the way i was tryin it: spend 5 mins stuffing fat fingers into hole, jump to second boss/pinch with right hand, left foot on, drop into crimp with left hand, fall off
Idea was to then pop to big ledge with right hand

[cofe]

i reckon that's pretty much it jimbowski, i've got as far as you.

the second pinch is defo better in a certain orientation - thumb high and hand angled over right....god we're sad.

good luck g.

[Jim]

so its cricket jumping to the second pinch? :D
would be back trying it again today if I didn't rip all the skin off my left hand on that forked lighting crack

[Bonjoy]

Once you've caught the second blob/sloper, flip your hand round on it so that your fingers point left and your thumb points down, ie cup it. Then swing foot out right and cross over to the ramp with left hand. It feels piss if you use this beta, i swear.

[Percy B]

Has anybody noticed the good sloper about 4 inches to the right of the second boss? My method is....spend 5 minutes stuffing my fat index finger into the hole and pinching the pocket with my thumb around the rib to the right, I jump straight to the above mentioned mystery sloper. There is rarely any chalk on this, but trust me, it feels way better than those big chalky bosses! Anyway, once i'm here, I pop my left foot on the big foothold, grab the layaway with my left hand, and then pop to the top of the flake with my LEFT hand. The good crimp is just used as an intermediate - the whole thing is done off the 'mystery sloper'.
I think there are a large number of ways to do this problem dependant on body size, etc. However, if you're a six foot hippy with very unfashionable hair, then it works everytime!