[Tom de Gay]

Wonder if Madman is the oldest unrepeated?

Have you been on Madman Tom? I thought it was massively undergraded.

Its hard to know what has been repeated - I was amazed to hear Dave Pickford had done my Sons of the Desert on Kinder for example. Gresham's variant on this might not have been repeated.

Had a brief look at Madman around '98, and would agree that E7 is a bit conservative...  As you know, the climbing is not that hard physically but around 15m from the deck you have to pull on some big flinty pebbles which are ripe for snapping.

Sons of the Desert seems like a very nice route (though highly scary). Grooverider is a bit of an eliminate, which is perhaps why no-one's repeated it (as far as I know).

[Neil F]

I think most of my stuff got repeated eventually (and I would have never predicted in a million years, what an essential tick Balance It Is would become).

But I've never heard of anyone doing The Long Distance Runnel at Cratcliffe.

Anyone?

Neil

[TommyG]

I know that I am deviating from the thread title here but I was thinking recently about some of Andy Earl's harder trad routes.

Has anyone repeated the Dark Side at Bowden or the Prow at Kyloe?

[Offwidth]

"How about every route at Dukes and Robinhood's Quarry except for Great Crack and Dharma? "

Although I understand the sentiment we must both know some of the people who will have climbed nearly all of those. Do we know of anyone who's repearted Absent without Leave, or Upping the Ante, as both of thsoe stay reasonably clean?

[Neil F]

I've done Upping the Anty (with Ian Parsons' direct finish).

I remember it was quite hard, but excellent, although it was 15 years ago.

It's probably covered in crud now...

Neil

[willackers]

I know that I am deviating from the thread title here but I was thinking recently about some of Andy Earl's harder trad routes.

Has anyone repeated the Dark Side at Bowden or the Prow at Kyloe?

I think a crucial hold on The Prow has broken and I don't know if it's possible anymore, I may be wrong.

[AndiT]

Pretty sure Boom Bip or Rollercoaster at Ramshaw hasn't been repeated, nor Readza's Driven Bow, Mandatory, Justin Time or Caricature Direct at Hen Cloud. I did a couple at Hen Cloud too which I don't think have been repeated (Myxi and Catharsis) or Sharratt's Night Prowler also at Hen Cloud. All being routes on popular crags, in guidebooks and near to the road.

Had a look at Tom's routes at Wilderness, they look fantastic. Would like to return to them this Summer.

[andy popp]

Old King Cole Andi?

Slightly off topic but I'd love to see some one repeat Tim Regained at Helsby.

[JohnM]

Is that the E6 up the runnels or the thing left of Beatnik Andy?  Do those runnels come into condition at all during the winter?

[andy popp]

The thing left of Beatnik, El Mocho has been on it.

I'd wait for some nice spring weather for the runnels. If I can, I'll come out and belay locally.

[AndiT]

Old King Cole Andi?

Pretty sure that got two first ascents! One as Old King Cole and one as Twigs and Berries, both were on-sight first ascents if that makes sense!

[andy popp]

I know. Just a little bit of gentle ribbing. 

[JohnM]

Yeah I saw a picture of Ben on it so I assumed he'd repeated it.  I'd be keen to have a look at it.  I guess that section or rock dries reasonably quickly doesn't it? 

[andy popp]

Just spotted this, Ben didn't actually lead it (it was only a short visit and in pretty poor conditions). So the repeat is still up for grabs. Yes, should be pretty quick drying compared to much of the crag.

[Bolter]

Happy Heart - Curbar? Now reckoned to be E7 7a.

I think Kevin Thaw repeated MaDMan?