[ducko]

g'day guys!

  i went out today and have done a bit of sport climbing  for the first time outdoors and i was very impressed!
so, im pretty much just a boulderer really, so i have a few questions too ask
apart from obviously climbing is there any training people do to stop getting bad arm pump, i was getting halfway up routes and the fingers were failing miserably 

also what sort of grade should i be looking at climbing as ive also always used the v grade which i know isnt popular!
im bouldering around the v6-v7 maximum level, so what level sport climb should i aim for?

if this mkaes not much sense sorry, all reply's appreciated!

taaa

[markwellin]

Hey, is that your absolute limit workig grade or can you normally bash it out in a few goes?
If v6 goes easily then you should be aiming for mid sevens... 7b+. However, it takes a while to get the required stamina to do a v4-5 after 20m of climbing. There are also alot of little tricks and tactics that help when route climbing that only come with practice.

So I recon aim for 7a reasonably quickly and see where you go from there. Don't expect to onsight particularly well for a while either.

[ducko]

thanks alot!
id say i usually do v6's in a few goes (obviously there are always exceptions)
thanks for the advice id like to eventually hit the 8's haha set the bar high! 

[Andy F]

If you can climb V6-7 you can do the cruxes on most 8a's. The rest of the climbing may be the tricky part...

[SA Chris]

And therein lies the rub.

[ducko]

its my fat man like ability to go distance on the rock, i need sorting out!
thanks for the advice ill see what i can do 

[205Chris]

Try playing to your strengths as a boulderer in the routes you choose as well.

[ducko]

Thanks for the input,
I've not been climbing to long and not sure what my strengths are so I guess Ill try varied routes and see which ones I get on well with!

[Jim]

I'd bash out a load of 6th grade routes for mileage first

[ducko]

It's  funny you said that I was looking at an area with lots of 6b problems and thinking of doing them before any 7a's even in 6b by the top the poor arms are pumped

[Soap]

I don't know if this is any use to you but it sprung to mind.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/12/boulderers-transition-to-route-climbing.html

[ducko]

thats awsome,
states the obvious but sometimes the obvious needs stating!
cheers! 

[slackline]

thats awsome,
states the obvious but sometimes the obvious needs statingasking!
cheers! 

[ziggytang]

Hey man. Pretty random but I'm sure I've met you at PyB a while ago with Homer. Your Matt's friend yea? If you ever want to hit some routes or go for a boulder let me know. Always on the look out for someone to climb with like. I'll add you up on facebook or summin?

[ducko]

hello,
yeah that might be me i know matt everett and homer.
i should be bouldering tomorrow, im on fb you can find me through everetts page 

[ziggytang]

Will have a look on matts page in a mo. Was thinking of headin to the cave or pill box after work tomorrow for an hour before it gets dark.

[ducko]

thats where ill most likely head, not been to pillbox yet but do fancy it