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Top peak esoteric boulder problems. (Read 18774 times)

Nan

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Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 09:22:55 pm
With all the new BMC guides covering overlooked areas in more detail I was wondering how much people have explored and what they have found good!  Also if there are any hidden gems that the books have overlooked.  Any grades are welcome, will start of with a few that I have done and think are  :thumbsup:

The arete - V3 - Beeley Quarry Matlock
Between the bars - V3 - Harland edge
Desperot - V7 - Chatsworth edge (ok not that esoteric but on a rarely visited crag)
Hot Ziggerty - V4 - Baslow
Rocket Ride - V5 - Wrights rock
Push - V4 - Cottage rocks
The nose - V5 - Gentlemans (better than high speed imp act by a mile)

Sure there are more but thats a few to start.  List your favorate and let others enjoy them!

joeisidle

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#1 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 10:06:25 pm

The nose - V5 - Gentlemans (better than high speed imp act by a mile)


Very much seconded, must be one of the better (short) roof problems in the peak.

Another mid-grade problem that gets my vote is the font 6b/v4 problem up the centre of the clifftop boulder near Cratcliffe, great moves on good positive holds.

Richie Crouch

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#2 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 10:44:49 pm
I thought Wrights unconquerable up at Wrights was excellent!

Krank

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#3 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 09:46:23 am
Project Quantum and This is my Church at Wolf Edge are both superb

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 09:54:48 am
Brad's arete: The Presence of Absence, Stanton Moor


TonyS

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#5 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:08:17 am
Dogma V9 at Bradley Quarry has to be one of the best out of the way arete problems (even if I do say so myself)

The impending fall is too much to think about, but great fun when taken!!

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:13:27 am
Summit arete and Codfinger Workout, Bosley Cloud

cofe

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#7 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:17:54 am
Friends and Relations, Houndkirk
Back Street Abortionist, Bank Quarry
This is My Church, Wolf Edge

nai

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#8 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:22:39 am
Not really that esotoric but you've got a problem from Baslow's edge so also worth seeking are:

The Ripper is good, The Balls Test is great and Flying Start is also very good, a trad-style boulder problem.

Offwidth

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#9 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:12:30 am
"Also if there are any hidden gems that the books have overlooked. "

Always plenty we overlooked (even with the superb web info these days and brilliant support from the boulderers on the team its hard to keep up and suss everything out) and some really obscure areas, that are clearly used get but kept quiet, get hints if you look carefully. Some of the best developed stuff not in the guides but that IS publicised is Brad's stuff at Stanton Moor... great problems from easy to hardish although I'm not entirely sure about building wooden ledges halfway up cliffs (!). Reuben may get round to putting a web download together to update his script for the Froggatt guide (between nappies) but don't tell Grimer!

Andy B

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#10 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:18:56 am
Dogma V9 at Bradley Quarry has to be one of the best out of the way arete problems (even if I do say so myself)

Have a word Tony!

cofe

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#11 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:43:05 am
Indeed...

I should add that Swingers Party at Bradley is very good.

Eddies

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#12 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:15:00 pm
Summit arete and Codfinger Workout, Bosley Cloud
:agree:

Jim

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#13 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:18:15 pm
codfinger workout isn't that great tho but worth having a go if you're there doing summit arete(which is excellent)
Brad's arete: The Presence of Absence, Stanton Moor is very much worthwhile doing as is this is my church

Nan

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How about superbrook at that place near rivelin? Anyone done it? Photos i've seen make it look pretty awesome

Johnny Brown

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#15 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:35:35 pm
Quote
codfinger workout isn't that great tho but worth having a go if you're there doing summit arete(which is excellent)

Obviously I'm biased but I thought it was better. Summit arete is just a single move.

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#16 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:49:51 pm
Huffy's problem on the golf course near Bell Hag

Bonjoy

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#17 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:54:00 pm
Depends where you draw the esoterica line. Some of the places mentioned so far are pretty mainstream really. For proper esoteric gems how about:
 The un-named 7b prow - Filthy Crag Q
 Salad Fingers/Monomantel - Cocking Tor
 Forest Casual - The Black Garden
 Eyes to the Skies - Stanton-in-the-Woods
 Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow
 Raped By a Kestrel - Congleton Knowle

Jim

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#18 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 01:10:39 pm
Summit arete is just a single move.
I would of said it was 2 (slap and then lock)

Nan

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As you say jonboy it does depend on where you draw the line but im more interested in finding the overlooked gems and out of the way classics and hoping this thread will help.
Also keen for mosstrosity at grindleford. Whats the best way to warm up for this problem? Do it somewhere else first, is there other stuff there to warm up on is eating a chip buttey and drinking some coffee in the cafe more the norm?

Johnny Brown

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#20 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 04:49:13 pm
Go to the cafe, then windmill your arms and knee your shoulders a bit.

Nan

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#21 Top peak esoteric problems
January 13, 2011, 04:57:41 pm
And try and kick yourself in the head? Take it its all slopers and compression so nothing to tweek your fingers on?

Johnny Brown

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#22 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 05:15:38 pm
Just the starting fingerlock. After that you pretty much climb it with your wrists.

Nan

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#23 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 14, 2011, 10:19:09 pm
Mate mentioned one down the wall tonight Minstral at Chasecliffe, done this one and its a pretty cool problem along with some others on the boulder down the hill from it.

AndiT

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#24 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 15, 2011, 10:53:19 am
Titan @ ERF Rocks is well good, but you will get evicted, kind of adds to the esoteria though.
The Yawn? @ Gradbach is quite good.
I prefer Summit Bypass to both Summit Arete and Codfinger, more moves and all that.

 

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