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Top peak esoteric boulder problems. (Read 18895 times)

Nan

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Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 09:22:55 pm
With all the new BMC guides covering overlooked areas in more detail I was wondering how much people have explored and what they have found good!  Also if there are any hidden gems that the books have overlooked.  Any grades are welcome, will start of with a few that I have done and think are  :thumbsup:

The arete - V3 - Beeley Quarry Matlock
Between the bars - V3 - Harland edge
Desperot - V7 - Chatsworth edge (ok not that esoteric but on a rarely visited crag)
Hot Ziggerty - V4 - Baslow
Rocket Ride - V5 - Wrights rock
Push - V4 - Cottage rocks
The nose - V5 - Gentlemans (better than high speed imp act by a mile)

Sure there are more but thats a few to start.  List your favorate and let others enjoy them!

joeisidle

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#1 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 10:06:25 pm

The nose - V5 - Gentlemans (better than high speed imp act by a mile)


Very much seconded, must be one of the better (short) roof problems in the peak.

Another mid-grade problem that gets my vote is the font 6b/v4 problem up the centre of the clifftop boulder near Cratcliffe, great moves on good positive holds.

Richie Crouch

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#2 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 12, 2011, 10:44:49 pm
I thought Wrights unconquerable up at Wrights was excellent!

Krank

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#3 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 09:46:23 am
Project Quantum and This is my Church at Wolf Edge are both superb

Johnny Brown

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#4 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 09:54:48 am
Brad's arete: The Presence of Absence, Stanton Moor


TonyS

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#5 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:08:17 am
Dogma V9 at Bradley Quarry has to be one of the best out of the way arete problems (even if I do say so myself)

The impending fall is too much to think about, but great fun when taken!!

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:13:27 am
Summit arete and Codfinger Workout, Bosley Cloud

cofe

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#7 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:17:54 am
Friends and Relations, Houndkirk
Back Street Abortionist, Bank Quarry
This is My Church, Wolf Edge

nai

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#8 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 10:22:39 am
Not really that esotoric but you've got a problem from Baslow's edge so also worth seeking are:

The Ripper is good, The Balls Test is great and Flying Start is also very good, a trad-style boulder problem.

Offwidth

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#9 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:12:30 am
"Also if there are any hidden gems that the books have overlooked. "

Always plenty we overlooked (even with the superb web info these days and brilliant support from the boulderers on the team its hard to keep up and suss everything out) and some really obscure areas, that are clearly used get but kept quiet, get hints if you look carefully. Some of the best developed stuff not in the guides but that IS publicised is Brad's stuff at Stanton Moor... great problems from easy to hardish although I'm not entirely sure about building wooden ledges halfway up cliffs (!). Reuben may get round to putting a web download together to update his script for the Froggatt guide (between nappies) but don't tell Grimer!

Andy B

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#10 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:18:56 am
Dogma V9 at Bradley Quarry has to be one of the best out of the way arete problems (even if I do say so myself)

Have a word Tony!

cofe

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#11 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 11:43:05 am
Indeed...

I should add that Swingers Party at Bradley is very good.

Eddies

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#12 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:15:00 pm
Summit arete and Codfinger Workout, Bosley Cloud
:agree:

Jim

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#13 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:18:15 pm
codfinger workout isn't that great tho but worth having a go if you're there doing summit arete(which is excellent)
Brad's arete: The Presence of Absence, Stanton Moor is very much worthwhile doing as is this is my church

Nan

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How about superbrook at that place near rivelin? Anyone done it? Photos i've seen make it look pretty awesome

Johnny Brown

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#15 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:35:35 pm
Quote
codfinger workout isn't that great tho but worth having a go if you're there doing summit arete(which is excellent)

Obviously I'm biased but I thought it was better. Summit arete is just a single move.

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#16 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:49:51 pm
Huffy's problem on the golf course near Bell Hag

Bonjoy

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#17 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 12:54:00 pm
Depends where you draw the esoterica line. Some of the places mentioned so far are pretty mainstream really. For proper esoteric gems how about:
 The un-named 7b prow - Filthy Crag Q
 Salad Fingers/Monomantel - Cocking Tor
 Forest Casual - The Black Garden
 Eyes to the Skies - Stanton-in-the-Woods
 Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow
 Raped By a Kestrel - Congleton Knowle

Jim

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#18 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 01:10:39 pm
Summit arete is just a single move.
I would of said it was 2 (slap and then lock)

Nan

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As you say jonboy it does depend on where you draw the line but im more interested in finding the overlooked gems and out of the way classics and hoping this thread will help.
Also keen for mosstrosity at grindleford. Whats the best way to warm up for this problem? Do it somewhere else first, is there other stuff there to warm up on is eating a chip buttey and drinking some coffee in the cafe more the norm?

Johnny Brown

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#20 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 04:49:13 pm
Go to the cafe, then windmill your arms and knee your shoulders a bit.

Nan

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#21 Top peak esoteric problems
January 13, 2011, 04:57:41 pm
And try and kick yourself in the head? Take it its all slopers and compression so nothing to tweek your fingers on?

Johnny Brown

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#22 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 13, 2011, 05:15:38 pm
Just the starting fingerlock. After that you pretty much climb it with your wrists.

Nan

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#23 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 14, 2011, 10:19:09 pm
Mate mentioned one down the wall tonight Minstral at Chasecliffe, done this one and its a pretty cool problem along with some others on the boulder down the hill from it.

AndiT

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#24 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 15, 2011, 10:53:19 am
Titan @ ERF Rocks is well good, but you will get evicted, kind of adds to the esoteria though.
The Yawn? @ Gradbach is quite good.
I prefer Summit Bypass to both Summit Arete and Codfinger, more moves and all that.

Nan

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#25 Re: Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
January 16, 2011, 06:41:45 pm
Is Project Quantum what is written up in the latest BMC guide as "the first obvious feature is a tower-like buttress with a rounded arete on its right (unclimbed)?
Looking in the book wolf edge it seems a good venue with quite a nice spread of grades supprised its not more popular

Drew

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Couldn't find anywhere better to ask this. Has anyone been to do Blair Witch Project at Plantation? Felt like having a look this afternoon after a play on the Hippo. I thought it was a good Font-esque problem. I was also wondering where people start. I did a low start with right hand on the slopey rail above the lip, and left hand on the small crimp in the break.

Bonjoy

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The old topbouldering.com site had a sit start listed for this at 7b+.

Drew

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

Bonjoy

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It was a long time ago. Grading has changed a lot since then (Brad Pit B13 etc.).

b3n99

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Salle Goose anyone? One of the best problems i've ever tried in the peak. Not massively esoteric but just so good!

BAndy

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I thought Quantum Leap was far better than Project Quantum.

Made in Sheffield at Houndkirk Tor is a great bit of esoterica. Nothing much to warm up on though unless you start at the other bit of Houndkirk.

Gritlad

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some good esoteric stuff in grindleford woods and tegness quarries. Particularly Emlyn's Generals Studies Field Trip and also Sub Rocc  :)

Dolly

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I thought Quantum Leap was far better than Project Quantum.

Made in Sheffield at Houndkirk Tor is a great bit of esoterica. Nothing much to warm up on though unless you start at the other bit of Houndkirk.
Is that on the continuation of the main edge ? I know its in the new guide but its not that obvious

cofe

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#34 Top peak esoteric boulder problems.
April 17, 2012, 11:58:42 pm
Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

leeroy

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Was just scanning the graded list in the guide and noticed a problem called burning lark sunset. It isnt in the guide itself so i just thought id ask what it is on here, as its been previously mentioned on the thread. cheers.

Nigel

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Cofe, I can’t believe you left this in the graded list after taking the description out! You idiot! Leeroy – probably the best problem in the Peak and open access but for other reasons we can’t go into it can’t be publicised. You’ll just have to find it.

JamieG

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Swivel finger on the Nth cloud. Totally amazing, although not that esoteric. Certainly doesn't get the attention it deserves.

Drew

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Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

The map here shows the location. It's definitely worth a special visit, but probably best to park in the layby near the quarry type hole.

dave

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Cofe, I can’t believe you left this in the graded list after taking the description out! You idiot! Leeroy – probably the best problem in the Peak and open access but for other reasons we can’t go into it can’t be publicised. You’ll just have to find it.

+1 awesome problem.

Jaspersharpe

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Must be amazing.....

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11151.msg189017.html#msg189017

Dolly

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Its at the actual Tor (the bit nearer Sheff), not the edge. It only just made the guide.

The map here shows the location. It's definitely worth a special visit, but probably best to park in the layby near the quarry type hole.

Great - cheers both. Will have a look sometime if it ever stops raining

Andy B

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Must be amazing.....

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11151.msg189017.html#msg189017

Trapped in Crow's Craws is actually at Burbage South (sitteer to Broddles Baby, if I remember correctly). Uncharacteristic error from Bonjoy there.

Nigel

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Exactly right, well spotted. Though to be fair, I don't think Jon was being entirely serious with that one, its nowhere near as good as the other two.

Bonjoy

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Best problem at 'the Brow' and that's saying something!

dave k

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

I did the FA of these two probs.

I think 7a for the stand-up is fair on Project Quantum. I gave it 7b, but it was pretty manky back then and I had to really battle to top out. Krank has since added the sit start. Might still be 7a. I certainly don't think he found it that hard surprised he didn't down grade it to 6b+!

Quantum Leap is one of my fav FA's and I reckon 7b is a fair grade, poss harder for the short/easier for the tall.

The Quantum boulder is a great piece of rock, in a great spot. Def worth a visit

Drew

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Good-o. Pity I was still talking about Blair Witch Project.

ferret

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Hmmm... maybe if you force yourself to start super low, or just don't allow your arms to be straight... or if you can't heel toe lock on the scrittle? 7A from where I started, and that might be being generous. I'm assuming I was on the right thing.

My problem from yesteryear, nice to see it occasionally gets climbed, nice problem but permagreen. To be honest dont remember the exact start holds but seem to remember starting sitting (im short and mats were thinner then) off two smallish holds, RF heelhooking and doing a move RH to the flat thing you mentioned. It may be more logical to start on the flat thing.
Grade wise I seem to remember giving it B8 (those were the days) as most things graded B8 are now 7a/7a+ then your grade sounds right, 7b+ must have come from some cockfax comparison chart if anywhere

Drew

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Hmmm... seem to remember starting sitting (im short and mats were thinner then) off two smallish holds, RF heelhooking and doing a move RH to the flat thing you mentioned. It may be more logical to start on the flat thing.
Grade wise I seem to remember giving it B8 (those were the days) as most things graded B8 are now 7a/7a+ then your grade sounds right, 7b+ must have come from some cockfax comparison chart if anywhere

Cool. It did seem like there would be a lower start, but I couldn't fit in to the gap, so just started with what I could reach. I reckon it's maybe 7A from sittimg, but could be 7A+ or 7B from your (extra low?) start.

 

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