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Trad Climbs for Boulderers (Read 9790 times)

SA Chris

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#25 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 12:11:12 pm
Sulky Little Boys. More like a boulder problem than a HVS.

Just about all of Slipstones. Keep heading leftwards as far as cojone size allows. Then skip a bit and do Paul's Arete and Steve's Wall.

Will Hunt

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#26 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 12:16:13 pm
Paul's Arete?

bouldering mats should not have to be used to make the climb suitable for your average boulderer.

Bonjoy

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#27 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 01:36:39 pm
Grand Illusion @ the Cliff fits just what you've asked for: 0.6 of an HVS, establish baby bouncer, do boulder problem.  The same could also be said for Big Greeny, I climbed up and down the bottom bit a few times and then fell off the top because my jeans were too tight to let me get my foot up in the pocket!

And She Was and I'll Bet She Does @ Simon's Seat fall into the Extended Boulder Problems Requiring Matting To Make Them Safe (EBPRMTMTS) category that you didn't ask for but they're both excellent, so if you haven't, you should.
If you are up there highballing I'd highly recommend Naked Edge which is the same grade and I thought even better than those two (and that's saying a lot!). Deffo the best highball/microroute I did last year.

It climbs the obvious arete.

205Chris

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#28 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 04:16:30 pm


That looks amazing. Might have to get myself up there.

SackofSpuds

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#29 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 05:11:58 pm
The Butcher-st govans
waterloo sunset-gardoms
cardiac arete-tremadog
bananas-tremadog
geireagle-tremadog
big wall party-rainbow slabs

SA Chris

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#30 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 07:59:14 pm
Paul's Arete?

bouldering mats should not have to be used to make the climb suitable for your average boulderer.

Well don't use one then. I was an average boulderer when I did it the first two or three times with a beermat and one or two spotters.

remus

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#31 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 08:08:11 pm
waterloo sunset-gardoms

Might Just be because im a Certified Short Arse™ but i found Waterloo Sunset pretty scary and fluffable, quality route though.

Johnny Brown

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#32 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 08, 2011, 08:19:48 pm
Quote
I'd highly recommend Naked Edge

Ditto. Its like an easier, natural version of Edge Lane, and quite possibly better.

andy_e

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#33 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 09, 2011, 12:04:55 am
Looks killer!

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#34 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 09, 2011, 10:15:20 am
MGC, Shepherds Crag.

SA Chris

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#35 Re: Trad Climbs for Boulderers
January 09, 2011, 12:23:15 pm
Word on that. Fits perfectly.

 

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