[Will Hunt]

Like this but not quite:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16732.0/topicseen.html

The emphasis being less on fitness and more on them being quite short, cruxy and not scary. Fluffable/very sequence specific routes need not apply. Preferably there should be some sort of rest before the crux section that would allow for upping and downing to "work" the move(s) and bouldering mats should not have to be used to make the climb suitable for your average boulderer.

[tomtom]

I have removed the one word of wittering nonsense I posted here earlier (thank god the modify timer had not gone).. my flu addled brain clearly is not ready for the world yet... sorry..

[Andy F]

Smooth Torquer, Kilnsey
New Age Traveller, Queen of Harts, Malham
La Mangustine Scatouflange, Chapel Head Scar

[Paul B]

Smooth Torquer, Kilnsey

retro'd?

[The Aaronator]

Smooth Torquer, Kilnsey
New Age Traveller, Queen of Harts, Malham
La Mangustine Scatouflange, Chapel Head Scar

I would have thought that La Mangustine would be way to pumpy for a boulderer, not to mention New Age Traveller. (e.g. car lifting sam gets pumped on 6Cs!. But sssshhhuusshh, dont tell him I said that)

[shark]

Smooth Torquer, Kilnsey
New Age Traveller, Queen of Harts, Malham
La Mangustine Scatouflange, Chapel Head Scar

I would have thought that La Mangustine would be way to pumpy for a boulderer, not to mention New Age Traveller.

Not only that - they also aren't trad climbs

[Will Hunt]

 

[grumpycrumpy]

Long Tall Sally at Burbage North ...... A wee bit scary , but fairly well protected  . Plus it's short and the crux is interesting ......

[Johnny Brown]

Lets face it, about half the routes on grit. Grade range?

[Richie Crouch]

Smooth Torquer, Kilnsey

I was pumped out my mind eyeballs out on a crimp clipping the top! Nearly faced an emeryesque plummet 

[Andy F]

I though a trad climb was a route that hadn't been re-bolted for a while... 

[tc]

Penal Servitude?
Geronimo?
Fine Time?
Most things on grit?

[JohnM]

Vlad the Arete (E4 7a) - Llanberis pass

Would be a classic highball 7B if the landing was flat.  Not scary if you pretend the pegs are really good!

There must be plenty of other trad climbs out there that involve an easy plod, some gear and then a boulder problem in the sky but I can't think of any at the moment.

[tc]

There must be plenty of other trad climbs out there that involve an easy plod, some gear and then a boulder problem in the sky but I can't think of any at the moment.

The Cumbrian? 

[chris j]

Cathy's clown at Staden might suit. 40 feet of slabby edging with good small to medium wires every other move, hang around under the overhang trying to decide whether to go left or right and then 4 or 5 moves to glory and easy ground.  Just don't go on an October day when the midges are biting...

[cofe]

Sulky Little Boys. More like a boulder problem than a HVS.

[kingholmesy]

Not done it, but maybe Quasar on the Grochan?  Not sure whether the initial groove would suit some boulderers though.

[chillax]

If you're in Ireland then lots of things in Dalkey Quarry (e.g. Voltas Vortic Vector, Frenzy, Hoochie Coochie Couloir, and Body Fluid if you're really good), The Ocean at Ailladie, and  maybe Elvis and some other short lived things at Muckross.

[Will Hunt]

Lets face it, about half the routes on grit. Grade range?

E2-E4. Yorkshire.

[Stubbs]

Grand Illusion @ the Cliff fits just what you've asked for: 0.6 of an HVS, establish baby bouncer, do boulder problem.  The same could also be said for Big Greeny, I climbed up and down the bottom bit a few times and then fell off the top because my jeans were too tight to let me get my foot up in the pocket!

And She Was and I'll Bet She Does @ Simon's Seat fall into the Extended Boulder Problems Requiring Matting To Make Them Safe (EBPRMTMTS) category that you didn't ask for but they're both excellent, so if you haven't, you should.

[AndiT]

Grand Illusion @ the Cliff fits just what you've asked for: 0.6 of an HVS, establish baby bouncer, do boulder problem.  The same could also be said for Big Greeny, I climbed up and down the bottom bit a few times and then fell off the top because my jeans were too tight to let me get my foot up in the pocket!

And She Was and I'll Bet She Does @ Simon's Seat fall into the Extended Boulder Problems Requiring Matting To Make Them Safe (EBPRMTMTS) category that you didn't ask for but they're both excellent, so if you haven't, you should.

  but found I'll bet she does scary....alone....matless....not even my dogs.

[Stubbs]

Here's a picture of me being really scared, despite the presence of three mats and a spotter



When I'm up on those moors I think more about the embarrassment that would come with having to call the air ambulance to pick me up, rather than the life threatening risk of serious injury.  Chapeau for going for it all alone, without even a canine companion to call 999 for you!

[kingholmesy]

Grand Illusion @ the Cliff fits just what you've asked for: 0.6 of an HVS, establish baby bouncer, do boulder problem.  The same could also be said for Big Greeny, I climbed up and down the bottom bit a few times and then fell off the top because my jeans were too tight to let me get my foot up in the pocket!

Grand Illusion is a good suggestion (and a well named route with reasonable climbing through impressively steep territory).  There's the potential to fall a long way on Big Greeny though, albeit on to good gear.  I took a fair whipper from by the pockets and there's still some climbing above that.

Another possible candidate at the Cliff is 'Arries 'Ook - extended bouldering to the break where you get a rest and good gear before one hard move to the finishing jugs of Black Wall Eliminate.

[tomtom]

Lets face it, about half the routes on grit. Grade range?

E2-E4. Yorkshire.

Rectum Rift at the cliff. IIRC it involves first climbing Pebble Wall with a rack (getting it passed up to the ledge isnt cricket) then between the two buttocks on the top of the headwall 

[SA Chris]

but found I'll bet she does scary....alone....matless

I got to about where stubbs is in the pic, then reversed. No mat, one spotter, small balls.