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How to get it back (Read 2158 times)

andymarshll

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How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 09:36:59 am
After my month in africa sans bouldering, i've dropped about 3 grades and 3 years worth of progress, i realise it'll come back a lot faster than the first time, but any tips on tricks to get it back quicker?

Paul B

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#1 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 11:11:06 am
take it slowly

robertostallioni

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#2 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 11:24:08 am
whether a week or a month, it always takes me twice the time to regain.

Fultonius

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#3 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 11:24:46 am
I agree-  most of my injuries have happened when "trying to get it back quickly" after a lay-off or a long period of mainly climbing outdoors.

I always think this is a good opportunity to iron out any technique problems, you know, start from scratch.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 09:11:02 pm
most of my injuries have happened when "trying to get it back quickly" after a lay-off or a long period of mainly climbing outdoors.

Apart from ones doing really fucking stupid things :)

Agree though, don't push it.

shark

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#5 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 11:24:17 pm
Pinky monos - 7 sets of 6. You'll be right as rain.

lagerstarfish

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#6 Re: How to get it back
December 24, 2010, 11:43:58 pm
any tips on tricks to get it back quicker?

pay somebody else to do it for you

moose

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#7 Re: How to get it back
December 25, 2010, 11:43:18 am
I suspect that any loss of ability you have is mainly mental.  If you've been climbing long enough that your grade is fairly settled, you're not going to lose much strength in a month.  Several yearts worth of finger strength specific gain won't dissapear in a month.  What you've probably lost is that subtle familiarity with movement that lets you best apply your strength: the minute awareness of how to weight your feet.  I've not climbed for several months at a time and the recovery process was always more a matter of de-clumsification than tendon building.

So, my advice is just to climb - lots of mileage.  In this weather going to indoor walls and just spending hours working your way through as many problems as possible.  Concentrate on good form whilst doing the easier stuff - careful, silent foot placements - exaggerated grace. 

 

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